David Livingstone

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DAVID LIVINGSTONE

First Edition Match 1889

Repfintea August 1889, April and October 1890, 1891, 1893

1897, 1898, 1900, 1901, 1906

DAVID LIVlNGSTOxNE
Engraved by O. Lacouk after a Photograph by U. N. King.

DAYID LIVINGSTONE

THOMAS HUGHES

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CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

David Livingstone ...... 1

CHAPTER II
Start in Africa — Kuruman . . , . .11

CHAPTER III
KoLOBENG — Lake Ngajii — Thk Zambesi . . 24

CHAPTER IV
Linyanti and the Makololo .... 41

CHAPTER V
Linyanti to Loanda ...... 53

CHAPTER VI
Across Afuica^ — Loanda to Quilemane . . 64

CGNl^ENTS

CHAPTER VII

PAOK

Home 80

CHAPTER VIII
TnK Zamijksi Exp?]r)iTioN- '\\) Linyanti and Back 87

CHAPTER IX

The Univkksities Mission . . . . .101

CHAPTER X
Recall — Voyage to India . . . . .108

CHAPTER XI
Second Visit Home . . . . .115

CHAPTER XII
Lakes Moero, Bangweolo, and Tanganyika . . 1 20

CHAPTKR XIII
Stanley .142

CHAPTER XIV
To Unyanyembe with Stanley . .154

CONTENTS Vll

CHAPTER XV

PAGE

Waiting at Unyanyembe 165

CHAPTEE XVI
The Last Advance — Death 176

CHAPTER XVII

Conclusion . . , . . . . . 192

Tlien let us pray that come it may —
As come it will for a' that —

When man to man, the warld o'er,
Shall brothers be for a' that."

BCRNS.

CHAPTER I

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

1813-40

" My own inclination would lead me to say as little as
possible about myself." AVith these words the greatest
explorer of modern times begins that account of his
missionary journeys and researches in South Africa
which electrified England. The eager desire of his
countrymen to know all they could about himself, induced
him to modify his own inclination so far as to devote
six pages of his famous book to the history of his famil}^,
and of the early years of his own life up to the time of
his sailing for the Cape at the age of twenty-three.
This reticence is as characteristic of the man as are the
few facts he does disclose. Foremost of these stands :
"My great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden,
fighting for the old line of kings, and my grandfather
was a small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. "
Next comes : " The only point of the family tradition I
feel proud of is this — one of these poor islanders, when
he Avas on his deathbed, called his children rov;nd him
and said, ' I have searched diligently through all the
traditions of our family, and I never could find that there
was a dishonest man amongst our forefathers. If, there-
IE y.

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

fore, any of you should take to dishonest ways, it will
not be because it runs in our blood. I leave this pre-
cept with you. Be honest."

Since the days of Jonadab, the son of Rechab, it
would be hard to find a more striking example of faith-
fulness to the " family motto " than David's life furnishes.
A more perfect example of a downright simply honest
life, whether in contact with queens or slave-boys, one
may safely say, is not on record on our planet. Happily, in
this instance, it is not difficult to supplement the meagre
outline sketched by the man himself, from his own letters,
and the reminiscences of playmates and school-fellows.

The son of the Culloden soldier, David's grandfather,
finding the small farm in Ulva insufficient for the support
of his large family, crossed into Lanark in 1792, and
obtained a position of trust in the mills of H. Monteith
and Co., at Blantyre, on the Clyde, above Glasgow. The
French wars drew away all the sons but Neil into the
army or navy. Neil, after serving an aj)prenticeship to
David Hunter, tailor, and marrying his master's daughter,
Agnes, in 1810, made a small business for himself as a
travelling tea-merchant.

David Hunter Avas a great reader, especially of
religious books, of which he had a small library, amongst
them the works of the Rev. J. Campbell, South African
missionary. Travels among the Hottentots, etc. These
cook a strong hold on his son-in-law Neil Livingstone,
and in turn on his grandson David, our hero, Neil's
second son, a boy of reniaikable powers, jihj'sical and
intellectual. He was born on March 19th, 1813,
and before the age of ten had wandered over all the
Clyde banks about Blantyre, and had begun to collect

1813-40 EARLY BOYHOOD 3

and wonder at floAvers and shells. He had also gained
the prize for repeating the whole 119th Psalm " with only
five hitches " ! But, hard as he was in body and mind,
he had a soft heart. He was watchful to lighten his
mother's work when he could, generally sweeping and
cleaning for her, "even under the door-mat," as she
gratefully recorded, with the thoroughness which never
left him. Happily for us all, no character is without its
weak side, and even David would say, "Mother, if
you'll bar the door, I'll scrub the floor for you," a con-
cession this to the male prejudices of Blantyre which he
would not have made in later life.

In another direction also a satisfactory gleam of human
weakness is recorded, in that Davie not only climbed to
a higher point in the ruins of Bothwell Castle than any
other boy, but carved his name up there.

At ten the boy went into the cotton-mills as a piecer,
from which time he maintained himself, and found money
for books such as only Scotch peasants are in the habit
of buying voluntarily. Out of his first week's wages he
bought Euddiman's Rudiments, and from that time pur-
sued the study of Latin with his usual steadfastness. His
factory work began at six A.M. and lasted till eight P.M.,
when Davie went to his Latin, as soon as he had had his
tea, until ten with the schoolmaster provided for the work-
people by their employers, and afterwards at home till
midnight, or until his mother put out his candle. But
though he tlius became able to read his Virgil and Horace
easily before he was sixteen, his chief delight was in
science. He managed to scour the country for the
simples mentioned in the first medical treatise he became
possessed of, Culpepper's Herbal, " that extraordinary old

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

work on astrological medicine." "T got as deep into
that abyss of fantasies," he records, "as niy author said
he dared to lead nic." It seemed jjerilous ground to
tread on further, indeed the dark hint of selling soul and
body to the devil loomed up bcfoi-e Davie's youthful mind.
On one of his exploring rambles, in company with two
brothers, one now in Canada and the other a clergyman
in the United States — "from which we generally returned
so hungry and tired that the embryo parson often shed
tears" — they came on a limestone quarry. "It is im-
possible to describe the wonder with which I began to
collect the shells in the carboniferous limestone. A
quarryman watched mc with the pitying eye which the
benevolent assume when viewing the insane. 'How-
ever,' .said I, 'did those shells come into those rocks f
' When God made the rocks He made the .shells in
them,' was the damping reply."

Without going more deeply into astronomical botany
or other ca1)ali.stic lore than became a young Highlander
whose father had left the Established Church and become
deacon of an Independent Chapel, ])a\ic managed in his
Saturday half-holidays, and the rare occasions when a
flood of the Clyde stopped the mills — an occurrence which,
in spite of his thrift, he could not help rejoicing in —
to make notable collections of the flora of Lanarkshire,
and the fossils of the carboniferous limestone, while
devouring his classics and all the poets he was allowed
to read. One can only regret that Deacon Neil's princijilcs
forbade novels, so that his great son never lead the
Waverley series till many years later. "My reading in
the factory," he says, " was carried on by placing the
book on a portion of the spinning jenny, so that 1 could

1S13-40 THE SPINNER AND STUDENT 5

catch sentence after sentence as I i^assecl at my work.
I thus kept a pretty constant study, undisturbed by the
roar of machinery. To this I owe the power of com-
pletely abstracting my mind, so as to read and write
Avith perfect comfort amidst the play of children or the
dancing and song of savages."

It must not be inferred, however, that Davie Avas a
mere precocious bookworm, and averse to such sport as
could be had. On the contrary, he delighted in rough
play, ducking his comrades in fun as he swam past them
in the Clyde, in whose waters he was a skilful fisher.
In those early days the trout, and all other fish but
salmon, were unpreserved. One day Davie caught a
fine salmon. Luckily brother Charlie wore on that day
a large pair of the family trousers, in a leg of which the
" muckle fush " was smuggled home. The deacon for-
gave them, after stern monition to take no more salmon
— and, the family ate this one for supper.

At the age of nineteen he was promoted to be a
spinner. The work was very severe, but so much better
paid that he could now earn enough in the rest of the
year to enable him to attend the Medical and Greek
Classes in the winter, and Divinity Lectures in the
summer, at GlasgOAv University. "Looking back now
at that period of toil," he writes in 1874, "I cannot but
feel thankful that it formed such a material part of my
early education, and were I to begin life over again, I
should like to pass through tlie same hardy training."
This simple and honest pride in povert}- was strong in
him. " My own order, the honest poor," were familiar
words with him; and, Avhen asked to change "and" for
" but " in the last line of the epitaph which he put over

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

his parents' grave in Hamilton Cemeter}^, pointedly
refused. It ran :—

to show the resting-plack ok
Neil Livingstone

AND Agnes Hunter, his wife,

ANO TO express THE THANKFULNESS TO GOD

of their children
John, David, Janet, Charles, and Agnes,

FOR POOR and pious PARENTS.

So David Livingstone grew up in his relations with
the visible world of which he became so earnest and
profound a student. But, after all, this is but the husk
of men's lives, and Ave must turn to the kernel — that
which must hold converse of some kind Avith the invisible,
whether Ave like it or not— before Ave can form a clear
picture of any boy or man for ourselves. " Great pains
had been taken by my parents," he Avrites, "to instil the
doctrines of Christianity into my mind, and I had no
difficulty in iinderstanding the theory of free salvation
by the atonement of our Saviour." This being so, the
boy, though obedient, as a rule, to his father, and even
trudging with pleasure the three miles to chapel with
him on Sundays, resolutely preferred books of travel
and science to The Cloud of Witnesses, or The Fourfold
State, Avhich the deacon desired him to study instead of
the dangerous literature to which he was given. "iMy
difierence of opinion reached the point of open rebellion,
and his last application of the rod Avas Avhen I refused
to read Wilberforce's Pnicfirnl Christiaiiifi/." I'his dislike
of religious reading continued for years, but "having
lighted on those admirable AA^orks of Dr. Thomas Dick,
The FMlosophy of Beligion and The Pltilosophij of a Future
Utate, it Avas gratifying to find that he had enforced my

1813-40 CALL TO MISSION WORK

own conviction that religion and science were friendly to
one another." Neither he nor any of his biographers
give the date of this conversion, as it proved to be. It
would seem, however, to have been connected, if it did
not coincide, with the establishment by Deacon Neil of a
missionary society in their village. By this means David
became acquainted with the history of Moravian missions,
and the lives of Henry Martyn and other devoted men,
amongst which that of Charles Gutzlaff, the medical
missionary to China, impressed him most strongly. He
had already resolved to give to the cause of missions all
he might earn beyond what was necessary for his sub-
sistence, when an appeal by Gutzlaff to the Churches of
Britain and America for aid in China, determined him
to devote, not his surplus earnings, but his own life to
this work, and "from this time my efforts were
constantly devoted towards this object without any
fluctuation." At first he resolved to accomplish his
object of going as a medical missionary to China by his
own efforts, but, by the advice of friends, he joined him-
self to the London Missionary Society, whose object —
"to send neither Episcopacy, nor Presbyteriauism, nor
Independency, but the Gospel of Christ to the heathen —
exactly agreed with my ideas. But I had never received
a farthing from any one, and it was not without a pang
that I offered myself, for it was not agreeable for one
accustomed to work his own Avay to become in a measure
dependent on others." His application was accepted, and
he was summoned to London.

On September 1st, 1838, he reached London, to be
examined by the Mission Board, and at the Aldersgate
Street office met Joseph Moore, the Tahiti missionary,

8 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap. I

Avho had come from the West of England on the same
errand. They became close friends at once, and nine
years later Livingstone wrote : " Of all those I have met
since we jjaited, I have seen no one I can compare to
you for true hearty friendship." Both young men were
in London for the first time. On their first Sunday' they
worshipped in St. Paul's ; and on the Monday passed
their examination, and were accepted as probationers.
On the Tuesday they began sight-seeing, and went first
to Westminster Abbey. Livingstone was never known
to enter it again alive, but on April 18th, 1874, his bones
were laid there in the central nave, in the presence of
a mourning nation, and of the faithful servants who had
carried them from Lake Bangweolo, through forest and
swamp, and hostile and superstitious tribes.

After their provisional acceptance Livingstone and
Moore were sent to Mr. Cecil's, at Chipping Ongar, in
Essex, on a three months' probation. There part of their
work was to prepare sermons, which, after correction by
their tutoi", were learnt by heart and delivered to the
village congregation. One Sunday Livingstone was sent
over to preach at Stanford for a minister who was ill.
"He took his text," Mr. Moore reports, "read it out
very deliberately, and then — then — his sermon had fled.
Midnight darkness came upon him, and he abruptly
said, 'Friends, I have forgotten all I ha<l to say,' and
hurrying out of the pulpit, left the chapel."

Tutor Cecil, owing to Livingstone's break -down in
preaching and his hesitation in conducting family
prayers, sent a report to the Board Avhich had )R'ai-ly
ended his connection with the London IMissionary
Society, but an extension of his proljation was granted,

1813-40 MEDICAL DEGREE

aud at the end of another two months he Avas fully
accepted. He now went to London to walk the
hospitals, while his friend was sent to Cheshunt College.
From thence Moore wrote to him to get him a second-
hand carpet for his room. But David was quite scan-
dalised at such effeminacy, and "positively refused to
gratify my wish."

He continued his medical studies till November 1840,
when, on the eve of his ordination, he ran. down to
Glasgow to obtain his diploma. Here again there had
nearly been a miscarriage. His own account of it runs :
"Having finished the medical curriculum, and presented
a thesis which required the use of the stethoscope for its
diagnosis, I unwittingly procured myself an examination
rather more severe than usual in consequence of a
difference of opinion between me and the examiners as
to whether the instrument could do what was asserted.
However, I was admitted a Licentiate of Faculty of
Physicians and Surgeons, and it was with unfeigned
delight I became a member of a profession which with
unwearied energy pursues from age to age its endeavours
to lessen human woe." This was on November 16th,
on the evening of which day he went home. There
David proposed to sit up all night, as he had to leave for
London in the early morning, but this his mother would
not hear of. He and his father talked till midnight of
the prospects of Christian missions. The family were
up to breakfast at five. " Mother made coffee," his
sister writes; "David read the 121st and L35th Psalms,
and prayed. My father and he walked to Glasgow to
catch the Liverpool steamer." On the Broomielaw
father and son parted, and never met again.

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

After that first parting David never was in native
Blantyre again except for a few hours, but the memory
of his first home lingered lovingly in his mind, as it does
in that of all true men. "Time and travel," he wrote
thirty years later, " have not eflfaced the feelings of re-
spect I imbibed for the inhabitants of my native village."
Two of these he has immortalised. "David Hogg, v/ho
addressed me on his deathbed with the words, 'Now, lad,
make religion the every-day business of your life, and not
a thing of fits and starts ; for if you don't, temptations
and other things will get the better of you,' and Thomas
Burke, an old Forty -Second Peninsular soldier, who
has been incessant and never wearying in good works for
about forty years. . . . The villagers furnished a proof
that education did not render them an unsafe portion
of the population. They much respected those of the
neighbouring gentry, who, like the late Lord Douglas,
placed some confidence in their sense of honour. Through
his kindness, the poorest amongst us could stroll at
pleasure over the ancient domains of Bothwell, and other
spots hallowed by venerable associations ; and few of us
could view these dear memorials of the past without
feeling that these moruiments were our own. The mass
of the working people of Scotland have read history,
and are no levellers. They rejoice in the memories of
Wallace and Bruce, ' and a' the lave.' While foi'eigners
imagine we want the spirit to overturn aristocracy, we
in truth hate those stupid revolutions which sweep away
time-honoured institutions, dear alike to rich and poor."

On November 20th he Avas ordained a missionary
in London, and on December 8tli, 1840, sailed for
Algoa Bay on board the George, Captain Donaldson.

CHAPTER II

START IN AFRICA — KURUMAN

1840-43

Up to the eve of his ordination Livingstone was bent on
going to China. The opium-wai^ was still dragging on,
but this would not have deterred so resolute a man had
not a new and most powerful influence been brought to
bear on him at this crisis. One evening Dr. Moffat, the
Nestor of African Missions, who was in England on a
'visit, called at Mrs. Sewell's in Aldersgate Street, where
Livingstone and other young missionaries boarded. The
yoimger man was at once deeply interested and at-
tracted, attended all Dr. ]\Ioffat's public meetings, and
ended by asking whether the Doctor thought he might
do for Africa. " Yes," was the reply ; "if you won't go to
an old station, but push on to the vast unoccupied dis-
trict to the north, where on a clear morning I have seen
the smoke of a thousand villages, and no missionary has
ever been." It was with this counsel in his mind that
David embarked on the George sailing packet for Algoa
Bay on December 8th, 1840.

The voyage of five months was unsatisfactory to the
ardent young missionary. The captain indeed "rigged
out the ship for chui'ch ou Sundays," but no good came

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

of it that Livingstone could see ; and he wrote sorrow-
fully in his first despatch to his Directors, that "no
spiritual good had been done to any one on board."
The long voyage, however, round by Kio de Janeiro, was
of great value to himself. For he made a close friend
of Captain Donaldson, who gave him lessons in the use
of the qtiadrant, often sitting up till midnight to perfect
his pupil in taking lunar observations.

The Cape, where the George was detained for a month,
proved a sad disappointment. He found the mission-
aries not only too many for the work, but a divided
body, some sympathising with the colonists, some with
the natives. His host was Dr. Philip, the agent of the
Society for payment of salaries, who had also a discre-
tionary power to make advances for the building of
churches, schools, and houses at mission stations.
Livingstone had heard in England that the Doctor was
a spiritual despot, influenced in this direction by his
wife. "I came full of prejudice against them," he
^v^ites to his friend and tutor the Eev. R. Cecil, " and I
left them with my prejudices completely thawed, my
fears allayed, and my mind imbued with great respect
for the upright Christian cliaracter they both exhibited
during the whole of my stay. ... I have no doubt they
have erred in the manner in which they have exercised
their power, but sure I am that no one who knows them
can say that the errors have been committed from any
other motive than a sincere desire to advance the cause
of Christ, and a deep conviction that the particular mode
of appropriation adopted would best efl'ect that object."

Tlie Doctor had also a church at Cape Town, in which
Livingstone preached, with the result that one part of

1840-43 ARRIVAL IN AFRICA 13

the congregation accused liim of heterodoxy to the
Doctor, "while others requested the notes of my
sermon, expressing a determination to act more than
they had done on the principle I had inculcated. My
theme was the necessity of adopting the benevolence of
the Son of God as the governing principle of our con-
duct. . . . j\Iy way of putting this roused the indigna-
tion of these worthies, who seem much more fearful of
heterodoxy in sentiment than heterodoxy in practice.
... It is a house divided against itself. . . . They do
all in their power to insult the Doctor and render his
old age bitter. . . . They don't deserve a good pastor,
and I don't see anything for them but dissolution, and
being remodelled."

So at the month's end he sailed on in the George to
Algoa Bay, leaving behind him at the Cape a reputa-
tion for independence and heterodoxy, which, as we
shall see, rose up against him nine years latei', in the
great crisis of his life, when he brought his family down
to embark them for England, before starting on his first
great journey to the west coast. On leaving the George
at Algoa Bay he started at once in an ox-waggon for
Dr. Moffat's station at Kuruman, seven hundred miles
up the country, Avhich he reached on May 31st, 1841.
The fascination of African travel came on him at once.
" I like this travelling very much indeed. There is so
much freedom in our African manners. AVe pitch our
tent, make our fire, wherever Ave choose ; walk, ride, or
shoot at all sorts of game, as our inclination leads us ;
but there is a great drawbaclc — we can't study or read as
we please. I feel this very much, and have made very
little progress in the language." As to the work of the

14 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, ii

Missions he passed he could uTite : "The full extent of
the benefit received can be understood only by those
who witness it in contrast with places which have not
been so highly favoured. Everything I witnessed sur-
passed my hopes. If this is a fair sample, the statements
of the missionaries as to their success are far within the
mark." Again to Mr. Cecil: "I like the country well.
It is very like Scotland in appearance, and the Hotten-
tots are far superior in attainments to what I had ex-
pected. I travelled four days in the waggon of one of
them, and was much struck with all their conduct,
particularly the manner in which they conducted family
worship, morning and evening. It reminded me forcibly
of the old Covenanters praising God amongst their native
wilds. At Hankey their operations for the temporal
benefit of their families, and their Christian deportment,
are truly delightful. They have a jjrayer meeting every
morning at four o'clock, well attended."

He found at Kuruman no instructions from his
Directors, and was thus left ^vith a free hand. While
beginning at once to practise as a doctor, his first aim
was to learn the language, in which he made rapid
progress ; his next, to look round for the best place to
oj^en a new station to the north, as Dr. Moffat had
.suggested. With this view he started in the later
autumn with another missionary and several native
agents, and made a circuit amongst the Bakwains and
other tribes. The result was, a conviction that no time
was to T>e lost, and great confidence in himself and his
methods. Griqua hunters and others were spreading
])rcjudicial reports against the missionaries, who were
putting down polygamy, drunkenness, and marauding

1840-43 KURUMAN 15

in and round Kuruman. His frank treatment of the
natives, and skill in healing their ailments, did much
to counteract these slanders. He got back to Kuru-
man by Christmas, having, however, promised the
Bakwains to return shortly. "When about 150 miles
from home we came to a large village. The chief
had sore eyes : I doctored them, and he fed us pretty
well, and sent a fine buck after me as a present. When
we got 10 or 12 miles on the way, a little girl eleven
or twelve years old came up, and sat do^\Ti under my
waggon, having run away Avith the purpose of coming
with us to Kuruman, Avhere she had friends. She had lived
with a sister lately dead. Another family took possession
of her for the purpose of selling her as soon as she was
old enough for a Avife, but not liking this she determined
to run aAvay. With this intention she came, and thought
of Avalking all the Avay behind my Avaggon. I Avas pleased
Avith the determination of the little creature and gave her
food, but before long heard her sobbing violently as if
her heart Avould break. On looking roimd I observed the
cause. A man with, a gun had been sent after her, and
had just arrived. I did not knoAv Avell Avhat to do, but Avas
not in perplexity long, for Pomare, a native convert Avho
accompanied us, started up and defended her. He, being
the son of a chief, and possessed of some little authority,
managed the matter nicely. She had been loaded Avith
beads, to render her more attractive and fetch a higher
price. These she stripped oflf" and gave to the man. I
afterAvards took measures for hiding her, and if fifty men
had come they Avould not have got her."

After a short rest at Kuruman he secluded himself
for six months from all but native society at a place

l6 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, ii

called Lepeloli, for the purpose of perfecting himself in
the habits, laAvs, and laiignage of the Bakwaius — an
ordeal which proved of great advantage to him.

" I am glad," he writes to Mr. Cecil at this time, " I
can anticipate the commencement of something perma-
nent in my work. I think Mrs. Cecil will laugh when I
tell you I am become a poet. I want to tell you, how-
ever, and not by way of boasting, but that you may
know I have made some progress in the language. I
suppose you have been apprehensive that I should not
acquire it, I being such a poor hand at languages when
with you ; but having made, or rather translated, some
very good English hymns into Sechuana rhyme, six of
them have been adopted and printed by the French
missionaries. If they had been bad I don't see that they
could have had any motive for using them. I can speak
it now with ease, but I am yet far from perfection. This,
however, I am not ashamed to own ; for, after such a
great man as Mr. Moflflit is, and twenty years resident
in the country, he is not yet perfect. He has put some
shocking blunders into the Testament: the word used for
' accuse,' for instance, always means the very opposite of
what he intends, and this Avhen there are several other
words which express it pointedly."

After this seclusion he started again, to keep his
promise of revisiting the Bakwaius, and found himself
already a power in the country. The sick and curious
crowded his waggon in the villages, but not an
article was stolen. He even succeeded in getting the
people of Bul)r, a friendly chief, to dig a canal. " The
Doctor and rainmaker amongst these people are one and
the same j)ersoTi. As I did not like to be behind my

1840-43 EARLY TRAVELS IN AFRICA 17

professional brethren I declared I could make rain too,
not, however, by enchantment like them, but by leading
out their ri\er for iiTigation. The idea took mightily,
and to work we went instanter. Even the chief's own
doctor went at it, laughing heartily at the cunning of the
foreigner who can make rain so. We have only one
spade, and this -Nnthout a handle, but yet by sticks
sharpened Ave have dug a pretty long canal. The earth
was lifted out in ' goupens ' and carried to the huge dam
we have built in karosses, tortoise-shells, or Avooden boats.
This is, I believe, the first instance in which Bechuanas
have been got to Avork Avithout Avages." The earlier
missionaries, he Avrote at this time, had gone on Avrong
lines. "If these people perceive an}' one in the least
dependent on them they begin to tyrannise. I am trying
a different plan. I make my presence with any of them
a favour, and Avhen they show any impudence I threaten
to leave them, and if they don't amend I go. They are
in one sense fierce, and in another the greatest coAA'ards
in the Avorld. B}' a l)old free course among them I have
had not the least difficulty in managing the most fierce.
A kick Avould, I am persuaded, quell the courage of the
bravest of them. Add to this the report, Avhich many of
them believe, that I am a great Avizard, and you Avill
understand hoAV I can Avith great ease Ansit any of them."
Farther on he came to the BamangA\ato, and AA^as
favoTU'ably received by their chief Sekomi. Here he
stayed for some time, and Sekomi one day having sat
some time in deep thought said, '"I Avish you Avould
change my heart. Give me medicine to change it, for
it is proud, proud and angry, angry ahvays.' I lifted
up the Testament and Avas about to tell him of the only

G

1 8 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chav. ii

Avay in which the heart can be changed, Init he internipted
me with, ' Na}-, I wish to have it changed l)y medicine,
to drink and have it changed at once, for it is always
very provid and very uneasy, always angry with some
one,' and then rose and Avent away."

His next halt was with the Bakaa, a tribe who had re-
cently murdered a trader and his company. All but the
chief and his two attendants fled at first, but seeing the
Doctor eat and afterwards sleep, came back and attended
a service. " I had more than ordinary pleasure in telling
these murderers of the precious blood which cleanseth
from all sin. I bless God that he has conferred on me
the privilege and honour of being the first messenger of
mercy that ever trod these regions. Its being also the
first occasion on which I had ventured to address a
number of Bechuanas in their own tongue, renders it to
myself one of peculiar interest. . . . When I left, the
chief sent his son and a number of his people to see me
safe part of the way to the Makalaka."

His oxen sickened, and most of the rest of the journey
was done on foot. " Some of those who had recentl}'
joined us, and did not know that I understood a little
of their language, Avere overheard l)y me discussing my
appearance. ' He is not strong, he is cpiite slim, and oidy
seems stout because he puts himself into those bags'
(trousers) ; ' he will soon knock up.' This made my
Highland blood rise, and I kejjt them all at the top of
their speed for days together, luitil I heard them express
a favoiirable opinion of my pedestrian powers."

Still no definite instructions came from home, so
making Kurunian his headquarters he continued his
medical and missionary journeys amongst tlic neigh-

1840-43 PRACTICE AS DOCTOR 19

bouring tribes. " I have an immense jjractice," he Avrites
to his old tutor, Sir Eisden Bennett; "patients Avalk 130
miles for my advice. This is the country for a medical
man, but he miist leave fees out of the question. They
have much more disease than I expected. They are
nearly naked, and endure the scorching heat of the day
and the chills at night in that condition. Add to this
that they are absolutely omnivorous. Indigestion,
rheumatism, ophthalmia are the prevailing diseases. . . .
They make me speak their language, and were I in-
clined to be lazy in learning it they would prevent me
indulging the propensity. They are excellent patients
too. There is no wincing ; everything prescribed is done
instanter. Their only failing is that they get tired of a
long course, but in any ojDeration even the women sit
unmoved. I have been astonished again and again at
their calmness. In cutting out a tumour an inch in
diameter, they sit and talk as if they felt nothing. ' A
man like me,' they say, 'never cries. It is children that
cry.' And it is a fact that the men never cry ; but Avhen
the spirit of God works on their minds they cry most
piteously, trying to hide their heads in their karosses,
and when they find that Avon't do, they rush out of
church and run with all their might, crying as if the
hand of death Avere behind them. One would think
they would stop away ; but no, they are in their places
at the next meeting."

His practice in midwifery was, perhaps, the most
characteristic. They suffered less from confinements
than in civilised countries, and had a prejudice against
the presence of male doctors. A case of twins occurred
in which the ointments of all the doctors in the town

DA VID LIVINGSTONE

proved unavailing. A few seconds of English art afforded
relief, and the prejudice vanished at once. " I reserved
myself for the difficult cases. . . . My knowledge of
midwifery procured me great fame in a department in
which I could lay no claim to merit. A woman came
more than 100 miles to consult me for a complaint which
had baffled the native doctors. A com])letc cure was the
result, and a year Inter she bore a son to her husband,
who had previously reproached her for being barren.
She sent me a handsome present, and proclaimed that I
possessed a medicine for the removal of sterility." This
brought him ap})licants for the child-medicine from all
parts of the country, and it was in vain for him to ex-
plain that the disease he had treated was quite a different
one. " It was really heart-rending to hear the earnest
entreaty, and see the tearful eyes. ' I am getting old : you
see gray hairs here and there on my head, and I have no
child. You know how Eechuana men cast their old
wives away. AVhat can I do ? I have no child to bring
me water when I am sick,'" etc.

/In 1842 he was again away, and, five days' journey
beyond the Bakatla, came to Sechele, chief of the
Bechuanas. At first Sechele Avas hostile, but his only
child was ill, and Livingstone cured her, and thenceforth
Sechele l)ecame one of his warmest friends and most in-
teresting converts. Some of his (juestions ])uzzled the
Doctor, as : " Since it is true that all who die unforgiven
are lost for ever, why did not your nation come to tell
us of it before now ? My ancestors are all gone, and none
of them knew anything of Avhat you tell me. How is
thisV'

At last, soon after his rctiun from Sechele, the detiin'te

1S40-43 FORWARD

permission came to push fonvard, and in June, 1843, he
was able to write home of the "feeling of inexpressible
delight with which I hail the decision of the Directors,
that we go forward into the dark interior. May the
Lord enable me to consecrate my Avhole being to the
glorious Avork."

A few extracts from his letters to Mr. Cecil will ex-
plain at once the cause of this delight, and the temper
and methods which he was resolved to employ in
the forward career which was now opening to him.
" There has always been some bugbear in the way of
the interior, and the tribes have in consequence always
passed away into darkness. ... I did not at first intend
to give up all attention to medicine and the treatment
of disease, but now I feel it to be my duty to have as
little to do with it as possible. I shall attend to none
but severe cases in future, and my reasons for this de-
termination are, I think, good. The spiritual amelioration
of the people is the object for which I came, but I cannot
expect God to advance this by my instrumentality if
much of my time is spent in mere temporal amelioration.
And I know that if I gave much attention to medicine
and medical studies, something like a sort of mania which
seized me soon after I began the study of anatomy would
increase, and I fear would gain so much poAver over me
as to make me perhaps a very good doctor, but a useless
drone of a missionary. I feel the self-denial this requires
very much, but it is the only real sacrifice I have been
called on to make, and I shall try to make it willingly."
His friends, he goes on, perhaps will wonder at his in-
tention to go so far north, but none of the tribes within one
hundred and eighty miles north of this will listen. And

22 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap. Ii

as to the need of some one to show the way, he is now the
fourth missionary at Kuruman. Now at this outjjost there
are only four hundred peoi)le,and "all the brethren behind
this, even down to the sea, are crowded together with
scanty portions of i)eople, and many un})leasant words pass
as to encroaching on each other's fields, etc. . . . We can
go forward and find plenty of people, and these too with
none of the prejudices which the near tribes have un-
fortunately iml)ibed. I was received Avith the greatest
kindness by all the tribes I visited, and some of them
never saw a white face before ; and the latitude at which
I turned back is farther than any European has attained
before. I must make the effort now when I am able to
stand the heat, etc., and if I wait I shall soon i)erhaps be
disinclined to endure fatigue." Then as to the danger
— after referring to his friend Dr. Philip, the Society's
agent, Avho had been at Kuruman while he was away,
and had left him a message " not to think of building his
house on the crater of a volcano ;" and that Mosilikatse,
the great Makololo chief, was ready " to })ounce on any
white man and spill his blood,"- — he goes on : " I believed
these reports too Avhen I left this, but I found to my
surprise that the Bamangwato, whom I visited, are eight
days north of the Bakwana, and that Mosilikatse is at
least fourteen days north of them. Seeing then that
the Doctor is, from having been misinformed, about
to oppose the Gospel being carried into the interior, I
intend just to go on Avithout his sanction. Besides, he
does not 2>oint out any place where I can be useful.
In fact he cannot, for the country behind this is over-
stocked with missionaries. . . . The Doctor stated to
some of the brethren that he thoucrht I was ambitious.

1840-43 TRUE AMBITION 23

I really am ambitious to preach beyond other men's
lines : but I suppose he meant the ^vrong kind of ambition.
I don't feel in the least displeased with him. I am only
determined to go on, and do all I can while able for the
poor degraded people in the north." Again, in answer
to friendly warnings from other quarters : " I feel the
necessity more than ever of active devotedness to the
Eedeemer's cause. I don't feel anything we usually call
sacrifices at home to be such. There is so much to
counterbalance them they really don't deserve the name,
and I am in a great deal more danger from levity than
from melancholy ; indeed it sometimes makes me blame
myself severely. When contemplating the Mission field
before I left England I used to think my spirits would
flag, but I feel no difference from what I felt at home.
It is, therefore, no virtue in me to endure privations, it
is only in those Avho feel them as such. I wish my mind
were more deeply affected by the condition of those who
are perishing in this heathen land. I am sorry to say
I don't feel half as concerned for them as I ought."

And so, in this resolute and yet humble spirit, he
went forward rejoicing, to found his first station in which
he hoped to be permanently settled, far away to the
north, in advance of any point hitherto visited by white
men.

CHAPTER III

KOLOBENG — LAKE NGAMI — THE ZAMBESI

1843-52

In the early cLays of August, 1843, Livingstone started
from Kuruman, Avith another missionary who hud agreed
to accom})any him, for the heautiful valley of Mahotsa,
about two hundred miles to the north-east, which he
had selected in one of his earlier journeys as the best site
for a station. Two s})ortsmen from India joined the
party, Mr. Pringle and Captain, now General, Sir Thomas
Steele, the latter of whom became one of his best friends.
The power that Livingstone had already acquired M-ith
the natives gave him a striking advantage over his
companions, whose am})le outfit of horses, servants, tents,
and stores stood out in marked contrast to his ox-
waggon. " When we reach a spot wheie Ave intend to
pass the night," he Avrites home, "all hands at once
unyoke the oxen. Then one or two collect wood, one
strikes u}) a fire, another gets out the water-bucket and
fills the kettle, a piece of meat is thrown on the fire, and
if Ave have biscuits Ave are at our cotfee in less than half an
hour. Our friends })erha])s sit or stand shivering at their
fire for two or three hours before they get their things
read}', and are glad occasionally of a cui> of cofTee from us."

1843-52 ^-^^ LI ON- HUNT 25

At Mabotsa he built his house -with his OAvn hands,
and settled to Avork amongst the Bakatlas, where he
remained for three years. Here the encounter with a lion
occurred, which, as he wrote, "I meant to have kept to tell
my children in my dotage," but on pressure from friends
narrated in his first book as follows : " The Bakatla of
the village of Mabotsa were troubled by lions, which
leaped into the cattle-pens by night and destroyed their
cows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This
was so unusual an occurrence that the people believed
themselves to be bewitched — 'given,' as they said, into
the power of the lions by a neighbouring tribe." They
went once to attack the animals, but being rather
cowardly in comparison with the Bechuanas in general,
they returned without slaying any.

"It is well known that if one in a troop of lions is
killed, the remainder leave that part of the country.
The next time, therefore, the herds were attacked, I
went with the people to encourage them to rid them-
selves of the annoyance by destroying one of the
marauders. AVe found the animals on a small hill
covered with trees. The men formed round it in a
circle, and gradually closed up as they advanced. Being
below on the plain with a native schoolmaster named
Malidlwe, I saw one of the lions sitting on a piece of
rock within the ring. Mabdlwe fired at him, and the ball
hit the lock on which the animal was sitting. He bit at
the spot struck, as a dog does at a stick or stone thrown
at him ; and then leaping away, broke through the circle
and escaped unhurt. If the Bakatla had acted according
to the custom of the country, they would have speared
him in his attempt to get out, but they were afraid to

26 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, in

attack him. When the circle was re-formed, we saw two
other lions in it, but dared not fire lest we should shoot
some of the jieople. The beasts burst through the line,
and, as it was evident the men could not be prevailed
on to face their foes, we bent our footsteps towards
the village. In going round the end of the hill I saw a
lion sitting on a piece of rock, about thirty yards off,
with a little bush in front of him. I took a good aim at
him through the bush, and fired l)oth barrels into it.
The men called out, * He is shot, he is shot ! ' Others
cried, ' He has been shot by another man too ; let us go
to him ! ' I saw the lion's tail erected in anger, and,
turning to the people, said, 'Stoj) a little till I load
again.' When in the act of ramming down the bullets
I heard a shout, and, looking half round, I saw the lion
in the act of springing upon me. He caught me by the
shoulder, and we lioth came to the ground together.
Growling horribly, he shook me as a terrier dog does a
rat. The shock i)roduced a stupor similar to that which
seems to be felt by a mouse after the first grip of the
cat. It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was
no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though I was quite
conscious of all that Avas happening. It was like what
patients partially under the iiiHuence of chloroform
describe — they sec the operation, but do not feel the
knife. This placidity is probably jjroduced in all
animals killed l>y the carnivora ; and if so, is a merciful
])rovision of the Creator for lessening the i)ain of death.
As he had one paw on the back of my head, I turned
round to relieve myself of the weight, and .saAv his eyes
directed to Mabalwe, who was aiming at him from a
distance of ten or fifteen yards. His gun, which was a

1S43-52 MARRIAGE 27

flint one, missed fire in both barrels. The animal
immediately left me to attack him, and bit his thigh.
Another man, whose life I had saved after he had been
tossed by a buffalo, attempted to spear the lion, upon
which he turned from Mabalwe and seized this fresh foe
by the shoulder. At that moment the bullets the beast
had received took effect, and he fell down dead. The
whole was the work of a few moments, and must have
been his paroxysm of dying rage. In order to take
out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the following
day made a huge bonfire over the carcase, which was
declared to be the largest ever seen. Besides crunching
the bone into splinters, eleven of his teeth had penetrated
the upper part of my arm. The bite of a lion resembles
a gun-shot wound. It is generally followed by a great
deal of sloughing and discharge, and ever afterwards
pains are felt periodically in the part. I had on a tartan
jacket, which I believe Aviped off the virus from the
teeth that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in
the affray have both suffered from the usual pains,
while I have escaped with only the inconvenience of »
false joint in my limb. The wound of the man who was
bit in the shoulder actually burst forth afresh on the
same month of the following year. This curious point
deserves the attention of inquirers."

In 1844 Dr. Moffat returned with his family to
Kuruman, and towards the end of the year, "after nearly
four years of African life as a bachelor, I screwed up
courage to put a question beneath one of the fruit-trees,
the result of which was that I became united in marriage
to Mr. Moffat's eldest daughter Mary. Having been
born in the country, and being expert in household

28 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chai>. lit

matters, she was always the best spoke in the wheel at
home : and, when I took her on two occasions to Lake
Ngami and far beyond, she endured more than some
who have written large books of travels."

The young couple spent their first year at Mabotsa,
where, besides a good house, schools, and church, Living-
stone had made an excellent garden. But now a
difference arose between him and his brother missionary,
and rather than add one more to the squabbles which
had vexed his soul at the southern stations, he, with his
^vife's approval, removed to Chonuane, forty miles north
of Mabotsa, a village of the Bakwains, and the residence
of their chief Sechele, whom he had already made his
friend. The Bakatla offered to build him a new house
and schools at another of their villages — to do, in short,
anything to keep him amongst them — to his surprise,
for there had been few conversions, and he reckoned his
work there a failure. He persisted, however, and to
Chonuane they went, and began their work again from
the beginning. Their life there is vividly described in
his letters. "Building, gardening, cobbling, doctoring,
tinkering, carpentering, gun-mending, farricring, Avaggon-
mending, preaching, schooling, lecturing on physics ac-
cording to my means, besides a chair in divinity to a class
of three, fill up my time. . . . My wife made candles,
soap, and clothes, and thus we had nearly attained
to the indispensable accomplishments of a missionary
family in Central Africa— the husband a jack-of-;ill-trades
without doors, and the wife a maid-of -all-work within."
Everything promised well at Chonuairc. The chief
Sechele was his first convert, and in a few weeks Avas
able to read the Bi1)le, his favourite Book being Isaiah.

1843-52 SECHELE'S DIFFICULTIES 29

" He was a fine man that Isaiah; he knew how to speak."
In his new-born zeal Sechele proposed summary methods
of conversion. *' Do you think you can make my people
believe by talking to them?" he urged. "I can make
them do nothing except b}^ thrashing them, and if you
like I shall call my head-man, and with our whips of
rhinoceros hide we will soon make them all believe
together." This was declined, and Sechele soon began
to understand what spirit he was of, and to adopt
Livingstone's methods, though their apparent failure
grieved him sorely. He began family worship in his
house, and surprised Livingstone by the simple and
beautiful style in Avhich he conducted it ; but except his
own family, no one attended. "In former times," he
complained, "if a chief was fond of hunting, all his
people got dogs and became fond of hunting too. If he
loved beer, they all rejoiced in strong drink. But now it
is different. I love the word of God, but not one of my
brethren will join me."

The two chief causes for this failure were that Sechele
had, after long struggle and del^ate with himself, put
away all his wives but one, giving them new clothing and
all the goods they had in their separate huts. This
alienated all their relatives amongst the chief men, while
the rest attril)uted to the neAv religion the drought which
came on them and lasted for four years. So severe was
it that the tribe by Livingstone's advice migrated from
Chonuane after the first year to Kolobeng, on the banks
of a stream of that name, forty miles to the north, where
Livingstone built his third house with his own hands.
But the drought continued at the new station, and the
tribe became poorer year by year. They believed that

30 DA VTD LIVINGSTONE chap, hi

Livingstone had bewitched their chief, and the old coun-
cillors came to him entreating him to allow Sechele to
make a few showers. " The corn will die if yoii refuse,
and we shall become scattered. Only let him make rain
this once, and we shall all come to the school, and sing
and pray as long as you please." "We like you," re-
monstrated Sechele's uncle, " as well as if j'ou had been
born amongst us. You are the only white man we can
become familiar with, but we Avish you to give up that
everlasting preaching and praying. We cannot become
familiar with that at all. You see, we never get rain,
while those tribes that never pray get plenty."

In vain Livingstone pleaded that only God could make
rain. He records pathetically the answers, of the fallacy
of which he could never convince them. " Trulj' ! " they
said ; " but God told us differently. He made black men
first, but did not love us as he did the "white men. He
made you beautiful, and gave you clothing and guns and
gunpowder, and horses and Avaggons, and many other
things about which we know nothing. But towards us
he had no heart. He gave us nothing but the assegai,
and cattle, and rain-making; and he did not give us
hearts like yours. AVe never love each other. Other
tribes place medicines about our country to prevent the
rain, so that we may be dispersed by hunger, and go to
them and add to their power. We must dissolve their
charms by our medicines. God has given us one little
thing Avhich you know nothing of — the knowledge of cer-
tain medicines by which we can make rain,. We do not
despise those things you possess though we are ignorant
of them. You ought not to despise our little knowledge
though you are ignorant of it."

1843-52 THE GREAT DROUGHT 31

But during the long trial of the drought, "They all
continued to treat us with respectful kindness. ... I am
not aware of ever having had an enemy in the tribe."

The depression of the long drought, keenly as he felt
it, was not allowed to hinder any of the work he had set
himself, the most urgent of which he held to be the
planting native teachers, trained l)y himself at Kolobeng,
amongst the neighbouring tribes. Those to the east
roused his special sympathy, and his efforts on their
behalf had an important influence on his future life. He
found them practically enslaved by the Boers of the
Cashan Mountains district, who plundered their cattle
and made them work "vvithout wages. On his first visit
the Commandant insisted : " You must teach the blacks
that they are not our equals. . . . You might as well
try to teach the baboons." Livingstone replied by offer-
ing to test whether the Boers or his native attendants
could read best. From this time his relations with the
Boers became more and more strained. In the followins:
years many of them came to Kolobeng, to get medicine
and advice from him, and to trade. The reports they
carried back inflamed the jealousy of their nation. They
summoned Sechele to acknowledge himself their vassal,
and to stop English traders and sportsmen from passing
to the country beyond or selling firearms. " I was made
an independent chief and placed here by God, and not
by you," Sechele answered. "The English are my
friends. I get all I want from them. I cannot hinder
them from going where they like."

A raid on Kolobeng was planned l)y the Boers, which
Livingstone heard of, and prevented for the time by a
visit of remonstrance to Mr. Krieger, the Commandant ;

32 DA VID LIVINGSTONE

but the cloud hung menacingly over the Bakwains.
This thought troubled Livingstone, who felt that his
presence amongst them was becoming a clanger to the
tribe. The conviction, too, was growing on him that the
Kolobeng stream had permanently disappeared, and that
the tribe would have to move again. Where Avere they
or he to go % To the east the Boers barred the way ; on
the west and north lay the great Kalahari desert, where
none but Bushmen could live. What Avas to be done ?

It Avas noAV that the rumours Avhich had reached him
of a lake aAvay in the north, on the other side of the
Kalahari desert, and a famous chief Avho lived beyond it,
came back to him Avith great force. Sebituane, the chief
in question, and head of the Makololo, had also gathered
the remnants of other tribes, broken up by Avars or
Hying from the Boers. He had saved the life of Sechele
in his infancy, and established him in his chieftainship.
Sechele reported him eager to Avelcome strangers. More-
over, he and his tribe had crossed the desert thirty years
before. Where men had gone, men might folloAv. At
this crisis tAvo Englishmen, Murray and OsAvell, had oppor-
tunely arrived on a hunting-tour and Averc eager to join
him. The latter, Avho had been sent on l)y his friend
Captain Steele, offered to defray all the cost of guides ; and
so, on June 1st, 1849, they started for the desert.

OsAvell became one of Livingstone's dearest friends,
and godfather to his third son. " I love him," he Avrote
sixteen years later, " Avith true affection. I believe he
does the same to me, and yet Ave never shoAV it." And
again : " Vou knoAV Osvvell Avas one of Arnold's Rugl)y
boys. One could sec his training in ahvays doing Avhat
Avas liruvc, and ti'uc and ri'j;ht." His fanic fni- f(>ats of

1843-52 OSWELL, THE MIGHTY HUNTER 33

strength and courage still lingered at his old school,
which he had left fourteen years before joining Living-
stone at Kolobeng, and meantime had become a mighty
hunter. " When my men wished to flatter me," Living-
stone wrote, " they would say, ' If you were not a
missionary you would be just like Oswell, you would not
hunt with dogs.' ..." They declare he is the greatest
hunter that ev^er came into the country. He has been
known to kill four old male elephants in a day, and the
value of the ivory would be one hundred guineas."
While admitting the prowess of his companions, Living-
stone's men looked upon them as a kind of lunatic
butchers, which grieved the good missionary. The Bak-
wain language has no word for sport, so he had difficulty
in answering such questions as, "Have these hunters,
who come so far and work so hard, no meat at home % "
" Why, they are rich ; they could kill oxen every day.
It is for the sake of the play it affords." This causes a
laugh, as much as to say "Ah, you know better," or
" Your friends are fools."

The expedition started with eighty oxen, twenty
horses, and about twenty men. It proved a toilsome and
dangerous journey, at first along the beds of streams long
dry, where water was only procurable by deep digging ;
afterwards across a flat where there was none. At one
point the oxen were four days without water, and their
masters scarcely better off". When they were at the
worst, Oswell saw an object skulking along in the bush,
and taking it for a lion rode after it. It proved to be a
Bush woman. " She thought herself captured, and off'ered
to deliver up her property, which consisted of a few traps
made of cords. When I explained that we only wanted

D

34 DAVID LIVINGSTONE ciiai-. hi

water and would pay lier, she walked briskly before our
horses for 8 miles, and brought us to Ncckockotsa. We
rewarded her with a piece of meat and a good large
bunch of beads. At the sight of tlie latter she burst into
a merry laugh."

At Ncckockotsa Oswell was the first to discover (as
he thought) the lake they were bound for. "He threw
up his hat in the air and shouted out a huzza which
made the poor Bushwoman and the liakwaius think him
mad. I was as much deceived as he." It was the mirage.
They were yet three hundred miles from Lake Ngami.

But their trouljles were over, for on July 4tli they
had cleared the desert and struck a fine I'iver, the
Zouga. The rest of their journey was along the bank of
this river, or in canoes, and, to their astonishment and
delight, before reaching the lake they came upon another
and larger stream, the Tamunakle. " I inquired Avhence
it came. ' Oh, from a country full of rivers — so many
no one can tell their luunber, and of large trees.'" Here
was a confirmation of his hopes of a populous country
in the unexi)lored noilh fit for stations, and so full
was his mind of tliis pros})ect that Lake Ngami no
longer seemed of importance to him. They reached it
on August 1st, the first wliite men who had ever looked
on it, or at anv rate who liad lived to tell the tale. On
August 2nd Livingstone ai)plied to the chief of this end
of the lake for guides and canoes to cross the Tamunakle,
here quit(; unfordable. He, jealous of their passing to
Seljituane, refused. " I tried hard to form a raft, but
the diy wood was so worm-eaten that it woulil not bear
the weight of a single pei'son. I Avorked niaiiy Imurs in
the water, for I was not tlicii aware of the niunlier of

1843-52 SECOND VISIT TO LAKE NGAMl 35

aligators, and never think of my labours without feeling
thankful that I escaped their jaws." Nothing more
could be done. Oswell volunteered to go to the Cape
and bring up a boat for next year, and they turned their
faces hom-eward.

Things were getting worse at Kolobeng. The drought
continued, and not only the men, but women and
children, were scattered over the country in search of
roots, caterpillars, or whatever would keep life in them.
Mrs. Livingstone's children and sewing-classes, numbering
each one hundred at one time, had disappeared. There
was nothing to keep them at home, so in April, 1850, ac-
companied now by his wife and three children, and by
Sechele, he started again for the north. Sechele left them
at the ford of the Zouga. Farther on they heard of an
English party in distress, and hastened sixty miles out
of their way to aid them. They found them down
with fever, of which Mr. Eider, the artist of the party,
was already dead. The rest recovered under Living-
stone's treatment; but after he had just managed to
take them for a paddle in the lake, in which they played
like ducklings, two of his children and all his servants
were attacked. Again he reluctantly turned homeward,
and met Oswell on his way from the Cape to keep his
promise. It was too late, and Oswell turned to his
elephant-hunting. Livingstone returned to Kolobeng,
where his wife was confined of a daughter, who died of
an epidemic after six weeks ; and afterwards they went
to Kuruman to recruit. Here he heard from his friend
Steele that the Eoyal Geographical Society had voted
him twenty-five guineas for the discovery of Lake Ngami.
" It'is from the Queen," he wrote home. " You must be

36 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, iii

very loyal, all of yoit Oh, you Radicals, don't be thinking
it came out of your pockets. Long live Victoria."

Sebituane had now heard of the attempts to reach
liim, and sent presents of cattle to Sechele and the
chiefs on the lake who had hitherto l)een hostile, and a
warm invitation to Livingstone. The envoys came to
Sechele while Livingstone was still at Kuruman, and
Sechele allowed them to return without informing him.
Had they been detained to escort the party the sufferings
on the third journey might have ])een spared.

\\\ April, 1851, he started once more with wife and
children, and with the intention of settling in Sebituane's
countr}' if he could find a healthy station. Oswell was
again witli him, and going aliead witli his men dug wells
for the pai'ty in the waggons. All went well wliile they
followed the old route, which they did to the neighbour
hood of the lake, after which they had to cross a desert
tract, the driest they had ever met with, in wiiich
Shobo their Bushman guide lost his way. " He would sit
down in the path and say, 'No water, all country only
— Shol)o sleeps — he breaks down — country only.'
Upon this he would coolly curl himself up, and was soon
wrapped in slumber. On the morning of the fourth day
he vanished altogether." They followed, came on a
rhinoceros' trail, and saw some birds. There they un-
yoked the oxen, who rushed off to the west. Next
morning the sujjply of water in the waggons was all l)ut
spent. " It was a bitterly anxious time, an<l the less
there was the more thirsty the little rogues became.
The iil(!a of tlieir perishing before our eyes was terrible.
It M'ould li;ive almost been a relief to me to have been
reproache<l as being the entire cause ; but not one

1843-52 SEBITUANE, CHIEF OF THE MAKOLOLO 37

syllable of upbraiding was uttered by their mother,
though the tearful eye told the agony within. In the
afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible relief,
some of the men returned with a supply of the fluid, of
which we had never felt the true value. . . . Shobo had
found liis way to the river Mababe, and appeared when
we came to the river at the head of a party. As he
wished to show his importance before his friends, he
walked up and ordered our whole cavalcade to halt, and
bring out fire and tobacco. We stopped to admire the
acting, and though he had left us in the lurch, we all
liked this fine specimen of that wonderful people the
Bushmen." No better specimen could be found than
this, of the long-sufli"ering and charity which carried him
safely through all his African Avanderings. "What a
wonderful people the Bushmen are !" his Journal runs ;
" always merry and laughing, and never telling lies like
the Bechuana. They have moi^e appearance of worship
than any of the Bechuana. When will these dwellers
in the wilderness bow down before their Lord % I often
wished I knew their language, but never more than
when we travelled with our Bushman guide Shobo."

Oswell and Livingstone now went ahead of their
party, and found Sebituane, who had come down to
meet them on an island. All his principal men were
with him. He was about forty-five, tall, wiry, of olive
complexion, cool and collected in manner, and more
frank than any chief Livingstone ever met ; the greatest
warrior in Central Africa, and always led his men into
battle himself. He gave them food, and prepared skins
of oxen as soft as cloth to sleep on, and next morning
was sitting by their fire before the dawn.

38 DAVID LIVINGSTONE niAP. iii

They acconipjiuied him to liis home, living with him
on the way, and hearing the story of his eventful life.
He now ruled over all the tribes of an immense tract
of country, as benevolent in peace as he had been
courageous in war. " He had the art of gaining the affec-
tions both of his own people and strangers. . . . "When
poor men came to trade he would go along to them, talk
with them, and feed them. Thus he knew all that
happened in the country. He never allowed a [larty
of strangers to go aAvay without giving a present to
every one, servants and all. Thus his praises were
sounded far and wide. ' He has a heart ! He is wise,'
were the expressions we heard before we saw him."

He offered a settlement in any part of his country,
and, had he lived, the whole course of Livingstone's
career might have been changed. But Sebituane sick-
ened of inflammation of the lungs. Livingstone feared to
treat him medically, and appealed to his native doctors.
" Your fear is prudent and wise," they said ; " the
people would blame you." "I visitetl him in company
with my little boy Robert on the Sunday afternoon on
which he died. 'Come near,' said Sebituane, 'and see
if I am any longer a man. I am done.' I ventured to
assent, and added a single sentence regarding hope after
death. 'Why do you speak of death T said one of a
relay of fresh doctors ; ' Sebituane will never die.' I rose
to depart, Avhen he raised himself up a little, called a
servant, and said, ' Take Robert to Manuku ' (one of
his wives), 'and tell her to give him some milk.' These
were the last Avords of Sebituane. ... He was decidedly
the best specimen of a native chief I ever met. I was
never so much iirievcd at the loss of a Idack man."'

1843-52 IVIFE AND CHILD KEN SEN?' HOME 39

His daughter Mamochishane succeeded, and was
equally friendly. OsAvell and Livingstone made a
journey of one hundred and thirty miles to the north-
east at the end of June and discovered the Zambesi,
already upwards of three hundred yards broad, hitherto
supposed to rise far to the east, but found no healthy spot
for settlement, so returned for the last time to Kolobeng.

Livingstone's mind was now made up. His family
could not stay at Kolobeng. He had found no new
station to the north. He would send them to England,
while he returned himself to search for a healthy district
in the interior, with a path either to the east or west
coast. With this view he started for Cape Town in
April, 1852, and passed through the centre of the colony
in the twentieth month of a Caffre war. " Those who
periodically pay enormous sums for these inglorious afifairs
may like to know that our little unprotected party could
travel Avith as little danger as if Ave had been in England.
Where does the money go, and Avho has benefited by
this blood and treasure expended f

He arrived at Cape Town, after eleven years of mis-
sionary life, to find himself an object of suspicion to the
authorities and his brethren. He had already antici-
pated his Avhole salary (£100) for 1852 and half that of
1853. Happily OsAvell Avas Avith him, and "made all
comfortable " financially, on the plea that Livingstone
had as good a right as he to the money draAvn from the
preserves on his estate.

He had Avritten Avith perfect frankness to his Directors
as to his intentions. " Consider the multitudes that
have been brought to light by the Providence of God in
the country of Sebituane. . . . Nothing but a strong

40 DA VI D LIVINGSTONE

conviction that the stcj) will lead to the gloiy of Christ
would make mc orphanisc my children. Even now my
bowels yearn over them. They will forget me ; but I
hope when the day of trial comes I shall not be found a
more sorry soldier than those who serve an earthly
sovereign. Should you not feel yourself justified in
incurring the expense of their support in England I
shall feel called upon to renounce the hope of carrying
the Gospel into that country, liut stay. I am not
sure. So powerfully am I convinced it is the will of
our Lord I should, I Avill go, no matter who opposes ;
but from you I expect nothing but encouragement. I
know you wish as ardently as I can that all the world
may be filled with the glory of the Lord. T feel relieved
when I lay the whole case before you." Mrs. Living-
stone and the four children sailed for England on April
23rd, 1852.

CHAPTER IV

LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO

1852-53

Livingstone was now ready to start on the journey
which resulted in the opening cf routes from Central
Africa to the west and east coasts, and the discovery of
the Victoria Falls; but the way was still beset with
difficulties. The missionary Societies were regarded as
" unpatriotic " by the authorities at the Cape ; and he,
as the most outspoken of critics, and the most uncom-
promising denouncer of the slave-trade and champion of
the natives, came in for a double share of their suspicion.
Oh the other hand, his brethren gave him only a half-
hearted support, and doul)ted his orthodoxy. He found
great difficulty even in procuring ammunition. A
country post -master, whom he had accused of over-
charging, threatened an action at the last moment,
which he compromised rather than be detained longer.
As it was, he had anticipated his meagre salary by more
than a year, and had to l)e content with very inferior
oxen, and a waggon which required constant mending
throughout the joiu-ney. Ha]>pily, however, the delay
at the Cape enabled him to have his uvula, which had
been troubling him for years, excised, and to renew

42 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap. \y

his astronomical studies witli liis friend tlie Astronomer-
Royal (Sir T. Maclear), so tliat he Avas al)le to lay doAvn
the exact geographical positions in all his subsequent
journeys. " He could take tlie complete lunar observa-
tions and altitudes for time in fifteen minutes. ... I say
what that man has done is unprecedented. . . . You
could go to any point across the entire continent along
Livingstone's track and feel certain of your position. . . .
His are the finest specimens of sound geographical obser-
vation I have ever met with," was Sir Thomas' testimony
four years later, when the great joui'ney was finished. On
June 8th, 1852, then, he at last got away, taking with
him a Mr. Fleming, the agent of his friend Mr. Ruther-
ford, a Cape merchant, in the hope of Ijy degrees
substituting legitimate traffic for that in slaves.

The heavy Cape waggon with its ten poor oxen
dragged heavily northward. Livingstone had so loaded
himself with parcels for stations up country, and his
waggon and team were so inferior, that it was not till
September that he reached Kuruman. Here he was
detained by the breaking down of a wlieel. The
accident was a happy one, for in these same days
the storm Avhich had been so long threatening from
the Transvaal broke over the Bakwain country. After
Livingstone's departure for the Cape, Sechele had sent
all his children l)ut two to Kuruman, to Dr. Moffat's
school. Now, while Livingstone was at work on his
waggon-wheel, Masabele, Sechele's wife, brought doAvn a
letter from her husband to the Doctor. " Friend of my
heart's love," it ran, "and of all the confidence of my
heart, I am Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who
attacked me, though I have no guilt with them. They

1852-53 THE BOERS SACK KOLOBENG 43

demanded that I should be in their kingdom, and I
refused. They demanded that I should prevent the
English and Griquas from passing. I replied, ' These are
my friends, and I can prevent no one.' They came on
Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on Sunday,
and they assented. They began on Monday morning at
twilight, and fired with all their might, and burned
the town with fire, and scattered us. They killed
sixty of my people, and captured women and children
and men. They took all the cattle and all the goods
of the Bakwains; and the house of Livingstone they
plundered, taking aAvay all his goods. All the goods
of the hunters " (Oswell and others) " were burnt, and
of the Boers were killed twenty-eight. Yes, my beloved
friend, now my Avife goes to see the children, and
Kobus Har will convey her to you. I am Sechele, the
son of Mochoasele." "The Boers," Livingstone Avrites
to his wife some days later, " gutted our house. They
brought four waggons down, and took away sofa, table,
bed, all the crockery, your desk (I hope it had nothing
in it. Have you the lettei's ■?), smashed the Avooden chairs,
took away the iron ones, tore out the leaves of all the
books and scattered them in front of the house : smashed
the medicine bottles, windows, oven door : took away
the smith -bellows, anvil, all the tools, three corn-mills,
a bag of coffee for which I paid £6, and lots of coffee,
tea, sugar, which the gentlemen who went north left :
took all our cattle, and Paul's, and Mabdlwe's. . . .
They set fire to the town, and the heat forced the
women to fly, and the men to huddle together on the
small hill in the middle of the town. The smoke
prevented them seeing the Boers, and the cannon killed

44 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, iv

sixty Bakwains. The Boers then came near to kill ami
destroy them all; but the Bakwains killed thirty -five
and many horses. They fonght the whole day ; but the
Boers could not dislodge them. They stopped firing at
night, and the Bakwains retired on account of having no
water. . . . All the corn is burned. Parties went out
and burned Bangwaketse, and swept of!" all the cattle.
Sebube's cattle are all gone. All the Bakatla cattle
gone. Neither Bangwaketse nor Bakatla fired a shot.
All the corn burned of all three tribes. Everything
edible taken from them. Hoav will they live ? . . .
They often expressed a wish to get hold of me. I wait
here a little in order to get information when the path
is clear. Kind Providence prevented me from falling
into the very thick of it. God Avill preserve me still.
He has work for me to do." "Think," he writes to his
friend Watt, " of a big fat Boeress drinking coffee out of
my kettle, and then throwing her tallowy corporeity on
my sofa, or keeping her needles in my wife's writing-
desk. Ugh ! and then think of foolish John Bull
paying so many thousands a year for the suppression of
the slave-trade, and allowing commissions even to make
treaties with the Boers, who carry it on. The Boers are
mad with rage against me because my people fought
bravely. It was I, they think, that taught them to shoot
Boers. Fancy your Reverend friend teaching the young
idea to shoot Boers, and praying for a blessing on the
work of his hands !"

Sechele, after a vain efibrt to get to England to lay
his case before the Queen, was helped back from the
Cape by English officers. He went back, and gathered the
remnants of the Bakwains, and eight other tribes, round

1852-53 THE BOERS RAID 45

him, and became more powerful than before the sack of
Kolobeng. Four years later Livingstone writes : " Sechele
has, though unbidden by man, been teaching his own
people. In fact he has been doing all that I was pre-
vented from doing, and I have been employed in explor-
ing— a work I had no previous intention of performing.
I think I see the operation of the unseen Hand in all this."

Livingstone was now more determined than ever to
open out the country to the north. The more the Boers
threatened to pursue on horseback, the more fixed was
his resolve ; but these threats, and the neighbourhood of
Boer marauding parties, added to the difHculty of his
task by alarming the natives. It was not till Novem-
ber 20th that he and Fleming could get waggon-
drivers. At last six were hired who were ready to risk
the journey to Linyanti. "To be sure, they were the
worst possible specimens of those who imbibe the vices
without the virtues of Europeans ; but we had no choice,
and were glad to get away on any terms."

Giving the Boers a Avide berth they took a route to
the west, over the Kalahari desert ; but even as it was,
came on the skirts of a war between the Boers and
Barolongs. "A CaflPre war in stage the second," he
describes it. " The third stage is when both sides are
equally well armed and afraid of each other. The
fourth, when the English take up a quarrel not their
own and the Boers slip out of the fray." The Bakwains
joined the Barolongs, and " the Boers sent four of their
number to ask for peace. I was present and heard the
conditions. Sechele's children must be restored to him.
Strong bodies of armed Bakwains occupied every pass in
the hills, and had not the four ambassadors promised

46 ^ DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, iv

mucli move than they })erforme(l, tluit day would liave
been tlicir Last. Tlie Commandant Hcholz liad taken
the children of Scchcle to be his own domestic slaves.
I saw one of them returned to his mother. He had
been alloAved to roll into the fire, and there were three
large unbound sores on his body. His mother and the
women received him with floods of tears. I took down
the names of some scores of l^oys and girls, many of
whom I knew to be our scholars ; but I could not
comfort any of the mothers with any hope of their
return from captivity."

The journey to Linyanti bj' the new route was A'ery
trying. Part of the country Avas flooded, and they Avere
wading all day, and forcing their way through reeds
with sharp edges "with our hands all raAv and bloody."
On emerging from the SAvamjis, "when walking before
the waggon in the morning tAvilight, I observed a lioness
about fifty yards from me in the squatting Avay they walk
when going to spring. She was followed by a very
large lion, but seeing the waggon she turnetl back."

It I'equired all his tact to jn'event guides and servants
from deserting. Every one l)ut himself was attacked by
fever. "I would like," says the Journal, "to devote
a portion of my life to the discovery of a remedy for
that tniible disease the African fever. I would go into
the parts where it prevails most and tiy to discover if
tlic natives have a I'emedy for it. I nuist make many
infjuirics of tlie river people in tliis (juarter." Again in
another key: "Am Ion my way to die in Sebituanc's
country? Have I seen the last of my wife and children,
leaving this fair world and knowing so little of it?"
February 4tli : "I am sjiared in licahh while all the

1852-53 SEKELETU AND THE MAKOLOLO 47

company have been attacked by fever. If God has
accepted my service, my life is charmed till my Avork is
done. When that is finished, some simple thing will
give me my quietus. Death is a glorious event to one
going to Jesus."

Their progress was tedious beyond all precedent.
" We dug out several wells, and each time had to wait
a day or two till enough water flowed in to allow our
cattle to quench their thirst."

At last, however, at the end of May, he reached the
Chobe river and was again amongst his favourite Makololo.
" He has dropped from the clouds," the first of them said.
They took the waggon to pieces, and carried it across on
canoes lashed together, while they themselves swam and
dived amongst the oxen "more like aligators than men."
Sekeletu, son of Sebituane, was now chief, his elder
sister Mamochishane having resigned in disgust at the
number of husbands she had to maintain as chieftainess.
Poor Mamochishane ! after a short reign of a few months
she had risen in the assembly and "addressed her
brother Avith a womanly gush of tears. ' I have been a
chief only because my father Avished it. I Avould
always have preferred to be married and have a family
like other Avomen. You, Sekeletu, must be chief, and
build up our father's house.' "

Sekeletu Avas eighteen years old, five feet seven inches
in height, equal to his father neither in stature nor ability,
but equally friendly to Livingstone- He sent ample sup-
plies, and the court-herald to Avelcome them, Avho advanced
leaping and shouting at the top of his voice, " Don't I
see the white man % Don't I see the father of Sekeletu \
We Avaiit sleep. Give 3'oiu' son sleep, my lord."

48 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, iv

Since Livingstone's last visit the half-caste Portuguese
had appeared from the west, and already a traffic in
slaves was going on, the dealers having gained a footing
amongst the Mambari, a neighbouring tribe ; and begun
intriguing with Mpepe, another son of Sebituane, a pre-
tender to the chieftainship, which he hoped to gain by
the aid of these new allies armed with guns.

Livingstone was surprised at the cordiality of his
rece})tion by chief and people. " God has touched their
hearts. I have used no undue influence. Kindness
sliown has been appreciated here, Avhile much greater
kindness shown to ti'ibes in the south has resulted in the
belief that we missionaries nnist be fools." The first
wish (if chief and people was to obtain the "gun medi-
cine." They had got guns at last, but could not shoot —
surely now his heart woxUd warm to them, and he would
give them the medicine. "But I could not tell them a
lie. I offered to show Sekeletu how to shoot, and that
was all the medicine I knew." After a short rest he
began to make excursions with Sekeletu to explore the
country round Linyanti. In these he was always en-
forcing on his companions the duty of living peaceably
with their neighbours. At one time he even prevailed on
Sekeletu to send presents to Lechulatclie, the ]io\verful
chief in the Lake Ngarai district, which lirought no
proper return. "I prevailed on the JMakololo to keep
the ])eace during my stay, but could easily see that
public opinion was against sparing a tribe of Bechuanas.
The young man exclaimed 'Lechulatebe is herding our
cows for us.'" At another, a party of hippopotamus
hunters from the Loeti fled on their approach, leaving
their canoes and their contents. On tliese his followers

1852-53 SEKELETU'S ESCAPE 49

" rushed like furies regardless of my shouting. As this
would have destroyed my character at Lobale, I forced
them to lay down all the plunder on a sandbank and
leave it for the owners." Sixty miles to the north they
came on a stockade full of slaves erected by the Mambari,
amongst whom was Mpepe, the rebel brother of Sekeletu.
Some of Mpepe's men divulged a plot for the murder of
Sekeletu. The rivals met in a hut for conference.
"Being tired with riding, I asked Sekeletu where I
should sleep. He rejilied, 'Come, I will show you.'
As we rose together I unconsciously covered his bod}'
with mine, and saved him from the blow of the assassin.
When Sekeletu showed me the hut in which I was to
pass the night he said, 'That man wishes to kill me.''
The chief resolved to be beforehand Avith him. He sent
men to seize him, and he was led out a mile and speared.
This is the common mode of executing criminals."
Mpepe's men fled, and the Makololo proposed to attack
the Mambari stockade. Dreading an outbreak of war,
Livingstone urged that it Avould be hard to take, being
defended by muskets. " 'Hunger is strong enough for
that,' said an under chief, ' a very great fellow is he.'
As the chief sufferers Avould have been the poor slaves
chained in gangs, I intercedeil for them, and they were
allowed to depart."

In the Barotse valley they passed a town in which
were two of Mpepe's chief confederates. On Sekeletu's
arrival they were seized and tossed into the river.
" When I remonstrated against human life being wasted
in this off-hand way, my companions justified the act by
the evidence given by Mamochishane, and calmly added,
'You see, we are still Boers, we are not yet taught.'"

E

50 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

On these journeys the camp liad often to Ije suiJijlied
with meat, and tlie Makololo shot so l)adly that " I was
obliged to go myself to save my powder. ... I was in
closer contact with heathens than I had ever been before,
and though all were as kind to me as possible, yet to
endure the dancing, roaring, and singing, the jesting,
grumbling, (piarrellings, and nnirderings of these children
of nature, was the severest penance I had yet undergone
in the course of mj^ missionary duties."

After each excursion they returned to Linyanti, where
Livingstone worked hard as missionary and doctor.
iSckeletu pressed him to name anything he desired, and
it should be given. " 1 exj^lained that vay object was to
elevate him and his people to be Christians. He rei)lied
he did not wish to learn to read the Book, for he was
afraid it might change his heart, and make him content
with one wife, like Sechele. Xo, no, he wanted always
to have five wives at least."

He held regular services to large congregations.
" When I stand up all the women and children draw
near, and, having ordered silence, I explain tlie plan of
salvation, the goodness of God in sending His Son to die,
etc., always choosing one subject, and taking care to make
it short and i>lain. A short prayer conclutles the .service,
all kneeling down and remaining till told to rise. At
first we have to tell the women who have children to
remain sitting, for when they kneel they S(|uee2;e the
children, and a sinuiltaneous skirl is set up by the wliole
ti'oop of youngsters, who make the jirayer inaudible."

And again and again in the Journal arc entries of
"large and attentive audiences," but no concealment of
the conviction that the efiect is suiieificial. "They

1852-53 UNYANTI UNFIT FOR SETTLEMENT 51

listen, but never suppose the truth must be embodied in
actual life. ... A minister who had not seen so much
pioneer service as I have done would have been shocked
to see so little effect produced. . . . We can afford to
work in faiths . . . AVhen we view the state of the world
and its advancing energies by childlike, or call it childish,
faith, we see the earth filling with the knowledge of the
glory of God — -aye, all nations seeing His glory and bowing
before Him whose right it is to reign. We work towards
another state of things. Future missionaries will be
rewarded by conversions for every sermon. We ai'e
their pioneers. They will doubtless have more light than
we, but we served our Master earnestly and proclaimed
the same Gospel they will do."

The result of all his excursions with Sekeletu was to
convince him that there was no hope of finding a healthy
settlement near Linyanti. The fever had at last attacked
him, and he was seldom free from it. Even the Makololo,
he found, were decreasing in numbers since they had
lived here. So now his whole mind was set on the
alternative of finding a way to the west coast By
degrees the unwillingness of Sekeletu and his people to
let him go was overcome. Fleming was sent back to
the Cape Avith the men from Kuruman, having hy
Livingstone's help made fair profits for his employer.
Livingstone's own waggon Avith his books and other pro-
j)erty were left at Linyanti. He was well aware that
the attempt was in the nature of a forlorn hope, but
wrote to his employers, " Cannot the love of Christ carry
the missionary where the slave-trade carries the trader X "
to his father-in-law, " I shall open up a path to the
interior or })crisli. I never have had the shadow of a

52 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, iv

shade of doubt as to the propriety of my course ;" to his
father, " Oar intentions are to go up the Luba till we
reach the falls, then send back the canoe and proceed in
the country beyond as best we can. May Christ accept
my children for His service, and sanctify them for it.
My blessing on my wife. May God comfort her ! If
my watch comes back after I am cut off, it belongs to
Agnes. If my sextant, it is Robert's. The Paris medal
to Thomas. Double-barrelled gun to Zouga. Be a father
to the fatherless and a husband to the widow for Jesus'
sake.

" The Boers by taking possession of all my goods have
saved me the trouble of making a will."

CHAPTER V

LINYANTI TO LOANDA

1853-54

On November 11th, 1853, he left Linyanti, and
arrived at Loanda on May 31st, 1854. The first stages
of the journey were to be by water, and Sekeletu ac-
companied him to the Chobe, where he was to embark.
They crossed five branches before reaching the main
stream, a wide and deep river full of hippopotami. " The
chief lent me his own canoe, and as it was broader than
usual I could turn about in it Avith ease. ... I had three
muskets for rny people, and a rifle and double-barrelled
shot gun for myself. My ammunition was distributed
through the luggage, that we might not be left without
a supply. Our chief hopes for food were in our guns.
I carried tAventy pounds of beads worth forty shillings,
a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, and about
twenty pounds of coffee. One small tin canister, about
fifteen inches square, was filled with spare shirts, trousers,
and shoes, to be used when we reached civilised life,
another of the same size was stored with medicines, a
third with l)ooks, and a fourth with a magic-lantern,
which we found of much service. The sextant and other
instruments were carried apart. A bag contained the

54 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, v

clothes we expected to wear out in the journey, which,
with ;i small tent just sufficient to sleep in, a sheep-skin
mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed, completed
my equipment. An array of baggage would prol)ably
have excited the cupidity of the tribes through whose
country we wished to pass."

The voyage up the Chobe, and the Zambesi after the
junction of those rivers, was prosperous but slow, in con-
secjuence of stoppages opposite villages. " My man
Pitsane knew of the generous orders of Sckeletu, and
was not disposed to allow them to remain a dead letter."
In the rajiids, " the men leaped into the AAater without
the least hesitation to save the canoes from being dashed
against obstructions, or caught in eddies. They must
never be allowed to come broadside to the stream, for
being flat-bottomed they would at once be capsized and
everything in them lost." When free from fever lie was
delighted to note the numbers of birds, several of them
unknown, which swarmed on the river and its lianks, all
carefully noted in his Journals. One extract must suffice
here: " Whenever we step on shore a species of plover,
a plaguy sort of public-s])irited individual, follows, flying
overhead, and is most persevering in its attempts to give
warning to all animals to flee from the approaching
danger." But he Avas already weak with fever; was
seized with giddiness whenever he looked up quickly,
and if he could not catch hold of some supi)ort fell
heavily — a bad omen for his chance of passing through
the unknown country ahead ; Init liis purpose never
faltered for a moment. On January 1st, 1854, he
was still on tlie river, but getting beyond Sekelctu's
territory and allies to a region of dense forest, in the

1853-54 MANENKO THE AMAZON 55

open glades of which dwelt the Balonda, a powerful
tribe, whose relations with the Makololo were precarious.
Each was inclined to raid on the other since the Manibari
and Portuguese half-castes had a|)peared with Manchester
goods. These excited the intense wonder and cupidity
of both nations. They listened to the story of cotton-
mills as fairy dreams, exclaiming, " Hoav can iron spin,
weave, and print % Truly ye are gods ! " and were already
inclined to steal their neighbours' children — those of their
own tribe they never sold at this time — to obtain these
wonders out of the sea. Happily Livingstone had
brought back with him several Balonda children who
had been carried off l)y the Makololo. This, and his
speeches to Manenko, the chieftainess of the district and
niece of Shinte the head chief of the Balonda, gained
them a welcome. This Amazon was a strapping young
woman of tAventy, who led their party through the forest
at a pace which tried the best walkers. She seems to
have been the only native whose will ever prevailed
against Livingstone's. He intended to proceed up to her
uncle Shinte's town in canoes : she insisted that they
should march by land, and ordered her people to shoulder
his baggage in spite of him. " My men succumbed, and
left me powerless. I was moving off in high dudgeon
to the canoes, when she kindly j^laced her hand on my
shoulder, and with a motherly look said, ' Now, my little
man, just do as the rest have done.' My feeling of
annoyance of course vanished, and I went out to try for
some meat. My men, in admiration of her pedestrian
powers, kept remarking, ' Manenko is a soldier,' and we
were all glad when she proposed a halt for the night."
Shinte received them in his town, the largest and best laid

$6 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chak v

out that Livingstone had seen in Central Africa, on a sort
of throne covered with leopard skin. The kotla, or place
of audience, was one hundred yards square. Though in
the sweating stage of an intermittent fever, Livingstone
held his own with the chief, gave him an ox as '• his mouth
was bitter from want of llesii," advised him to open a
trade in cattle with the Makololo, and to {)ut down the
slave-trade ; and, after spending more than a week with
him, left amid the warmest professions of friendship.
Shinto found liim a guide of his tribe, Intemese by
jiame, who was to stay by them till they reached the sea,
and at a last interview hung round his neck a conical
shell of such value that two of them, so his men assured
him, would purchase a slave.

Soon they Avere out of Shinte's territory, and Inte-
mese became the plague of the {^arty, though unhickily
they could not dispense with him altogether in crossing
the great flooded plains of Lcbala. They camped
at night on mounds, where they ha<l to trench round
each hut and use the earth to raise their sleeping
places. " My men turned out to Avork most willingly,
and I could not but contrast their conduct with that of
Intemese, who was thoroughly ind)ued with the slave
spirit, and lied on all occasions to save himself trouble."
He lost the pontoon too, thereby adding greatly to their
troubles. They now came to the territory of another
great chief Katema, who received them hospitably,
sending food and giving them solemn audience in his
kotla surrounded by his tribe. A tall man of forty,
dressed in a suufV-1)rown coat with a broad ])and of tinsel
down the arms, and a li(;linet of ])ca<ls and feathers. He
carried a large fan with charms attached, which he waved

1853-54 TROUBLES ON THE WAY 57

constantly during the audience, often laughing heartily —
" a good sign, for a man who shakes his sides with mirth
is seldom difficult to deal with." " I am the great Moeno
Katema," was his address; "1 and my fathers have always
lived here, and there is my father's house. I never
killed any of the traders ; they all come to me. I am
the great Moene Katema, of whom you have heard."
On hearing Livingstone's object, he gave him three
guides, who would take him by a northern route, along
which no traders had passed, to avoid the plains, im-
passable from the floods. He accepted Livingstone's
present of a shawl, a razor, some beads and buttons, and
a powder-horn graciously, laughing at his apologies for
its smallness, and asking him to bring a coat from Loanda,
as the one he was wearing Avas old.

From this point troubles multiplied, and they began
to be seriously pressed for food. The big game had dis-
appeared, and they were glad to catch moles and mice.
Every chief demanded a present for allowing them to pass,
and the people of the villages charged exorbitantly for all
supplies. On they floundered, however, through flooded
forests. In crossing the river Loka, Livingstone's ox
got from him, and he had to strike out for the farther
bank. " My poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed, and
about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush into the
water for my rescue, and just as I reached the opposite
bank one seized me by the arms, and another clasped
me round the body. When I stood up it was most
gratifying to see them all struggling towards me. Part
of my goods were brought up from the bottom when I
Avas safe. Great was their pleasure when they fouml I
could swim like themselves, and I felt most grateful to

58 DA VI n LIVINGSTONE chap, v

those poor heathens for tlic promptitude with wliich they
dashed in to my I'escue." Farther on, the people tried
to frighten them with the account of the deep rivers they
had yet to cross, but his men laughed. " ' We can all
swim,' they said ; ' who carried the white man across the
river but himself?' I felt proud of their praise."

On March 4th they reached the country of the
Chiboques, a tribe in constant contact with the slave-
dealers. Next day their camp was surrounded by the
nearest chief and his warriors, evidently bent on plunder.
They paused when they saw Livingstone seated on his
camp-stool, with his doul)lc-baiTclled gun across his
knees, and his IMakololo ready with their javelins. The
chief and his principal men sat down in front at Living-
stone's invitation to talk over the matter, and a palaver
began as to the fine claimed by the Chiboquc. "The
more I yielded the more unreasonable they became, and
at every fresh demand a shout was raised, and a rush
made round us Avith brandished weapons. One young
man even made a charge at my head from behind, but
I quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his
mouth and he retreated. My men behaved Avitli ad-
mirable coolness. The chief and his counsellors, by
accepting my invitation to be seated, had placed them-
selves in a trap, for my men had quietly surrounded
them, and made them feel that there was no chance of
escaping their spears. I then said that as everything
had failed to satisfy them they evidently meant to
fight, and if so, they nuist begin, and bear the blame
before God. I then sat silent for some time. It was
rertaijdy rather trying, but I was careful not to seem
flurried ; and having four barrels ready for instant action.

1853-54 THE CHIBOQUE TRIBE 59

looked quietly at the savage scene around." The palaver
began again, and ended in the exchange of an ox for a
promise of food, in which he was wofully cheated. " It
Avas impossible to help laughing, but I was truly thankful
that we had so far gained our point as to be allowed to
pass without shedding human blood."

He now struck north to avoid the Chiboque, and
made for the Portuguese settlement of Cassange through
dense forest and constant wet. Here another fever fit
came on, so violent that " I could scarcely, after some
hours' trial, get a lunar observation in which I could
repose confidence. Those Avho know the difficulties of
making obsei'vations and committing them all to paper
will sympathise with me in this and many similar
instances."

At this crisis, when the goal was all but at hand,
obstacles multiplied till it seemed that after all it would
never be reached. First his riding ox, Sindbad — a beast
" blessed with a most intractable temper," and a habit of
bolting into the bush to get his rider combed oflf by a
climber, and then kicking at him — achieved a triumph
in his weak state when " my bi-idle broke, and down I
came backwards on the crown of my head, receiving as
I fell a kick on the thigh. . . . This last attack of fever
reduced me almost to a skeleton. The blanket Avhich I
used as a saddle, being pretty constantly wet, caused
extensive abrasion of the skin, which Avas continually
healing and getting sore again." Then the guides missed
their way and led them back into Chiboque territory,
Avhere the demands of the chief of every village for "a
man, an ox, or a tusk," for permission to pass, began
again. Worst of all, signs of mutiny l)egan to shoAv

6o DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, v

themselves amongst the Batoka men of his ]xarty, who
threatened to tnrn back. He appeased them Ijy gi^'ing a
tired ox to be killed at the Sunday's halt. " Having thus
as I thought silenced their murmurs, I sank into a state of
torpor, and Avas oblivious of all their noise. On Sunday
the mutineers were making a terrililc din in preparing
the skin. I requested them twice to be more quiet as
the noise pained me, but as they paid no attention to
this civil request, I j)ut out my head and, repeating it,
was answered by an impudent laugh. Knowing that
discipline w^ould be at an end if this mutiny was not
quelled, and tliat our lives depended on vigorously up-
holding authorit}^, I seized a double-barrelled pistol and
darted out with such a savage aspect as to put them
to precipitate flight. They gave no further trouble."
Every night now they had to build a stockade, and liy
day to march in a compact body, knowing the forest to
lie fidl of enemies dogging tlieir path, for now they had
nothing to give as presents, the men having even divested
themselves of all their cop])er ornaments to appease the
Chibo(|ue harpies. "Nothing, however, disturbed us,
and for my part I was too ill to care nmch whether we
were attacked or not." They struggled on, the Chiboque
natives, now joined by ])odics of traders, op[)using at every
ford, Livingstone no longer wondering why expeditions
from the interior failed to reach the coast. " Some of my
men proposed to return home, and the pros})ect of being
obliged to turn back from the threshold of the Portu-
guese sottbmients distressed me exceedingly. After
using all my jjcjwers i)f persuasion I declared that if they
now returned I should go on alone, and retui'iiing into
my little tent, I lifted \\\^ my heart to Him who liears

1853-54 CA'OSS/NG THE QUANGO 61

the sighing of the soul. Presently the head-man came
in. ' Do not be disheartened,' he said ; ' we will never
leave you. Wherever you lead, we will follow. Our
remarks were only made on account of the injustice of
these people.' Others followed, and with the most
artless simplicity of manner told me to be comforted —
' they were all my children ; they knew no one but
Sekeletu and me, and would die for me : they had
spoken in bitterness of spirit, feeling they could do
nothing.' "

On April 1st they gained the ridge which overlooks
the valley of the Quango, and the Portuguese settle-
ments on the farther bank. "The descent is so steep
that I was obliged to dismount, though so weak that I
had to be supported. Below us, at a depth of 1000 feet,
lay the magnificent valley of the Quango. The view of
the Vale of Clyde, from the spot where Mary witnessed
the battle of Langside, resembles in miniature the
glorious sight which was here presented to our view." On
the 4th they were close to the Quango, here one hundred
and fifty yards broad, when they were stopped for the last
time by a village chief, and surrounded by his men. The
usual altercation ensued, Livingstone refusing to give
up his blanket — the last article he possessed except his
watch and instruments and Sekeletu's tusks, which had
been faithfully guarded — until on board the canoes in
which they were to cross. " I was trying to persuade
my people to move on to the bank in spite of them,
when a young half-caste Portuguese sergeant of militia,
Cypriano di Abren, who had come across in search of
bees'-wax, made his appearance, and gave the same
advice." They marched to the bank — the chief's men

62 DA VFD LIVINGSTONE chap, v

opening fire on them but without doing any damage —
made terms witli the ferrymen by Cypriano's help,
crossed tlie Quango, and were at the end of their
troubles.

Four days they stopped Avith Cypriano, who treated
them royally, killing an ox and stripping his garden to
feast them, and sending them on to Cassange with pro-
visions of meal ground by his mother and her maids.
" I carried letters from the Chevalier du Prat of Cape
Town, but I am inclined to believe that my friend
Cypriano was influenced by feelings of genuine kindness
excited by my wretched appearance."

At Cassange they were again most hospitably treated,
and here, before starting for Loanda, three hundred miles,
they disposed of Sekeletu's tusks, which sold for much
higher prices than those given by Cape traders, " Two
muskets, three small barrels of powder, and English calico
and baize enough to clothe my whole party, with large
bunches of beads, were given for one tusk, to the great
delight of my Makololo, who had been used to get only
one gun for two tusks. With another tusk we
purchased calico — the chief currency here to pay our way
to the coast. The remaining two were sold for money
to purchase a horse for Sekeletu at Loanda." Livingstone
was much struck both by the country he passed through
and the terms on which the Portuguese lived with the
natives. ]\Iost of them had families by native women,
who were treated as European children and provided for
by their fathers. Half-caste clerks sat at table with tiie
whites, and he came to the conclusion that " nowhere in
Africa is there so much good-will between J^uropeans and
natives as here."

1853-54 ARRIVAL AT LOANDA 63

The dizziness produced by his twenty-seven attacks
of fever on the road made it all he could do to stick on
Sindbad, who managed to give him a last ducking in the
Lombe. " The weakening effects of the fever Avere most
extraoixiinary. For instance, in attempting to take lunar
observations I could not avoid confusion of time and dis-
tance, neither could I hold the instrument steady, nor per-
form a simple calculation." He rallied a little in crossing
a mountain range. As they drew near Loanda the hearts
of his men began to fail, and they hinted their doubts to
him. " If you suspect me you can return," he told them,
" for I am as ignorant of Loanda as you ; but nothing
will happen to you but what happens to me. We have
stood by one another hitherto, and will do so till the last."

The first view of the sea staggered the Makololo. " We
were marching along with our father," they said, " believ-
ing what the ancients had told us Avas true, that the
world had no end ; but all at once the Avorld said to us,
* I am finished ; there is no more of me.'"

The fever had produced chronic dysentery, Avhich AA'-as
so depressing that Livingstone entered Loanda in deep
melancholy, doubting the reception he might get from
the one English gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, the Commissioner
for the suppression of the slave-trade. He Avas soon un-
deceived. Mr. Gabriel received him most kindly, and,
seeing the condition he Avas in, gave him up his oaa'u
bed. " Never shall I forget the luxurious pleasure I
enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English bed
after six months' sleeping on the ground. I Avas soon
asleep ; and Mr. Gabriel coming in almost immediately
after, rejoiced in the soundness of my repose."

CHAPTER VI

ACROSS AFRICA — LOANDA TO QUILEMANE

The journey to Loanda liad severely tried Livingstone's
splendid constitution. Though he rallied from his first
attack in a few days, he was subject to severe relapses,
the last of Avhich, in August, entirely prostrated him.
He was reduced to a skeleton, but under the care of Mr.
Gabriel and the surgeon of the rolyphemiis, recovered,
and was thankful to find that the lassitude which had not
left him for months had at last disappeared. His pre-
parations for the return journey to Linyanti were now
pushed on, and he started eastward on September 20th.
During his attacks of fever he had been unable to look after
his twenty-seven Makololo, whom he had brought safely
through so many perils, but on his recovery was pleased
and relieved to find how well they had managed to shift
for themselves. They had established a brisk trade in
firewood, which they collected in the wild country and
sold at a cheaper rate than regular wood-carriers ; and
had also been employed at sixpence a day, for each man,
in unloading an English vessel which had brought out
coal for the cruisers on the station.

These, the Fluto and PJiilomrl, were now visited on

1S54-57 LOANDA TO QUILEMANE 65

the captain's invitation by Livingstone with his men.
" It is not a canoe at all, it is a town ! and what sort
of a town that you climb up into with a rope 1" the
]\Takololo wondered. "These are all my countrymen,
sent by our Queen to put down those who buy and sell
black men," Livingstone told them, pointing to the
sailors. "Truly, they are just like you !" the Makololo
replied, and were soon forward amongst the crew, who
shared their dinners with them, and otherwise petted
them in "the kotla," as they called the sailors' deck.
He himself became fast friends with Captains Skene and
Bedingfield, and a hearty admirer of the British Navy,
the officers of which he had once looked on as idlers,
maintained by the hard-working nation, and the men as
reckless ne'er-do-weels, who gloried in fearing neither
God, nor man, nor devil, "and made our Avooden walls
floating hells." It was not the first or the last of his
early prejudices that the great Puritan traveller was
destined to outlive.

Seeing his wretched state of health the captains
urged him to go home, offering him a passage with them
to St. Helena. Other friends supported them, urging
him to take passage on board the Forerunner mail-
packet, by which he was sending home his letters, witli
journals, maps, and observations, laboriously drawn up
for his employers, the Geographical Society, and the
Astronomer- Koyal. The temptation was great, as he
had found no letter from home, nor despatch, at Loanda,
but he put it resolutely aside, knowing that his Makololo
could never get back without him, and having pledged
his word to Sekeletu to see them home. The Forerunner
was lost off" Madeira vnth. all her passengers but one ;

F

66 DA VI D LIVINGSTONE ohap. vi

and he had to stop for seA'eral weeks on his eastward
march at Pimgo Adongo, to reproduce his despatches and
maps — a feat equal to that of Carlyle in re-writing the
vohime of his French Revolution after its destruction by J.
S. Mill's housemaid. The party left Loanda loaded with
presents, and Avith the good wishes of the i)eople, high
and low. The bishop, who was acting governor of the
province, gave Livingstone orders for supplies by the
way while in Angola, and introductions to the officials
on the east coast if he should ever get there ; a horse,
uniform, and other presents for Sekeletu; and to his
men, suits of clothing, in addition to those of striped
calico, with red caps, in which Mr. Gabriel had already
arrayed them. The merchants sent specimens of their
wares, and two donkeys, the only beast of burden which
is i^roof against the poisonous l)ite of the tsetse fly.
Thus loaded, they set off, on September 20th, 1854,
making a southern detour along the coast, and through
the provinces of Massangano, Cassange, and of Golungo
Alto, before returning to their old route beyond the
Portuguese border.

Everywhere Livingstone was struck with the richness
of the country and the blighting influence of the slave-
trade. His progress was tcdiousl}' slow, as the men be-
came footsore on the dry roads, and had frequent attacks
of fever, through which he nursed them successfully,
bringing home every man of the twenf-y -seven safe to
Linyanti. He was not so successful with Sekelctu's horse,
which sickened and died after detaining them several
days. Then came his halt at Pungo Adongo, to repro-
duce his despatches, and then more attacks of fever, so
that he did not eet clfai' of An2;ola till Fcbruarv. lHr>.".

1S54-57 THE RETURN JOURNEY 67

He left the province with verj^ mixed feelings —
gratitude to the Portuguese, high and low, for their
great kindness to himself, and sanguine anticipations
alternating with doubts as to their views Avith regard
to the slave-trade ; a keener sense than ever of the
blighting effects of that trade, which had reduced the
morality of the Angola tribes, especially in the matter
of theft, far below that of the Bechuana and Makololo —
"At Kolobeng, where slavery is unknown, we never
locked our doors night or day " — and a painful sense of
the contrast betAveen the condition of the jDeople and
the brightness and richness of the country.

They found the Chiboque head-men, though much
more easy to deal with than they had been in 1853 on
their way to the coast, still hostile and exacting Avhen-
ever they saw a chance. On only one occasion, however,
was there any danger of a collision. Livingstone had
been prostrated by rheumatic feA'er and obliged to halt
for eight days, during which his men managed to quarrel
Avith the nearest head-man. When they moved on at
last, they Avere folloAved by croAvds of Chiboque from
all the neighbouring villages. " They began by knocking
doAATi the burdens of the hindmost of my men, and
se\'eral shots were fired, each party spreading out on
both sides of the path. I fortunately had a six-barrelled
revolver, and Avith this in my hand staggered along the
path Avith two or three of my men and encountered the
chief. The sight of six barrels gaping into his stomach,
Avith my own ghastly visage looking daggers at his face,
seemed to produce an instant revolution in his martial
feelings, for he cried out, ' Oh, I have only come to
speak to you, and Avish peace only.' Both parties

68 n.ll ID l.IVIXGSTONF.

crowded up to their chiefs. I requested all to sit down,
and then said to the cliicf, ' If you have come with peace-
able intentions, we have no other. Go home to your
village.' lie replied, 'I am afraid, lest you should shoot
me in the back' I rejoined, 'If I wanted to kill you I
could shoot you in the face as Avell.' Mosautu called out
to rae, 'Don't give him your back.' But 1 said, 'Tell
him to observe that I am not afraid of him,' and turning,
moimted my ox and took my de[)arture."

Slowly they retraced their steps, passing the Balonda,
to Avhose great chief, Matiamvo, Livingstone much
wished to pay a visit at his town, Mai, from whence he
might have descended the Zambesi to the Makololo
country. But the extra cost of the deviation, and the
probability of Matiamvo not allowing him to pass out of
his country to the south-east, hindered him. He found
the tribes of the Balonda and Luba more uncivilised
and better-looking than any of the tribes between them
and the coast — a merry race, spending their time in
gossip, funeral assemblies, and marriages. "This flow
of animal spirits must be one reason why they are such
an indestructible race."

On June 8th they forded the Lotembwa, liei'e a mile
wide and three feet deep, and regained their old path,
crossing the great plains which they had seen under
water on their outward march, and on which he now
suffered from another severe attack of fever. But no
physical dejjression could weaken his zeal or power of
observation, and it was now that the solution of the
problem of the river-.system of Africa broke upon him.
■' I had learnt, partly from my own observation, partly
from information derived from others, that the rivers of

1854-57 WELCOME BY THE MAKOLOLO 69

this part of Africa took their rise in the same elevated
region, and tliat all united in two main drains, the one
flowing to the north by the Congo, the other to the
south by the Zambesi. I was now standing on the
central ridge that divided these two systems, and was
surprised to find how slight its elevation was. Instead
of the lofty snow-clad mountains we might have expected,
we found frequently flat plains not more than 4000 feet
above sea level, and 1000 feet lower than the western
ridge we had already passed."

They Avere now getting amongst friends. At
Katema's town, besides abundance of other food, they
were presented with one of liis white cows, Avhich it took
them tAvo daj's to catch, and the chief's heart was made
glad by a cloak of red baize ornamented with gold
tinsel, a quarter of a pound of powder, and other articles.
They found their pontoon where they had left it, carefully
preserved, l)ut useless, the mice having eaten holes in it.
They passed through Shinte's country, distributing now
the cuttings and seeds they had brought from Angola,
custard apples, fig, coffee, and palm-oil trees, onions,
garlic, and pep})er. At Manenko's they Avent through a
rite, consisting of liljations of beer, in which drops of
the blood of hosts and guests had been infused, after
Avhich they Avere reckoned as blood-relations.

At Libonta, the first J\Iakololo toAvn, they Avere
received Avith extravagant joy, as men risen from the
dead. Pitsane gaA^e an account of their adventures in a
speech of an hour, dAvelling on the kindness of Mr.
Gabriel and othei's to them, and the fact that Living-
stone hud opened a route for them tu the coast, and had
conciliated all the chiefs on the road. Next day Avas

70 DAVID LIVINGSTONE . hai'. vi

observed, by Ijivingstone's desire, as a day of thanks-
giving. " My men decked themselves in their best, and
I found that although their goods were finished, they
had managed to save suits of white, which with their
red caps gave them rather a dashing appearance. They
tried to walk like the soldiers they had seen at Loanda,
and called themselves my ' braves ' (batlabani). During
the service they all sat with their guns over their
shoulders, to the unbounded admiration of the women
and children." The abundance of supplies poured in,
drew from them apologies that they had nothing to give
in return. " It does not matter ; you have opened a path
for us, and we shall have sleep," was the graceful reply.

Their progress down the Barotse valley was one long
triumph, and they reached Linyanti on September 11th,
1855, having taken a year all but nine days on their
return journey. Livingstone spent eight weeks at Lin-
yanti with Sekeletu, starting for the east coast on
November 3rd, 1(S55.

The intervening time was fully occupied in writing
letters and despatches, doctoring and preaching ; and, in
the latter part, in preparing for his eastAvard journey.
He Avas again disappointed in finding no letters from
home, and only one, a year old, from Kuruman. This
had been brought, with some packages of eatables, from
Mrs. Mofiat to the southern bank of the .Zambesi by a
party of Matabele, the enemies of the Makololo, who
called across the river that they were from Moffat for
"Nake." When the Makololo refused to believe them
they left the packages, saying, " Here are the goods ; we
place them before you ; if they perish, the guilt will be
yours." Tiie Makololo cautiously brought them to an

1854-57 MOSI-OA-TUNYA 7i

island in mid-stream, building a liut over them, in which
Livingstone found them in perfect safety. Besides pro-
viding him an escort of one hundred and twenty men, ten
slaughter cattle, three of his best riding oxen, and a large
store of provisions, Sekeletu with his chief men accom-
panied him for some distance. Despite some relapses
during Livingstone's absence towards the slave-trade, and
one or two raids against his neighbours, Sekeletu succeeded
in winning his warm regard. The chief had not only
made his journeys possible, furnishing him with supplies
which, even if he could have drawn for it, his meagre
salary of £100 a year could not have procured, but
showed the strongest personal devotion to him ; insisting,
for instance, on Livingstone taking his blanket for a bed
when they were accidentally separated from their baggage
in a tremendous tropical storm. " I was much affected,"
Livingstone writes, "by this act of kindness. If such
men must perish by the advance of civilisation, as some
races of animals do before others, it is a pity. God grant
that ere this time come they may receive the Gospel — a
solace for the soul in death."

On November 13th Sekeletu left them at Sesheke
on the banks of the Zambesi, along which they pro-
ceeded till they came in sight of five columns of
vapour — " smoke that sounds," or "Mosi-oa-tunya," as the
Makololo called them — rising from the falls of which he
and Oswell had heard years before. "Being persuaded
that Mr. Oswell and myself were the very first
Europeans who ever saw the Zambesi in the heart of
Africa, I decided to use the same lil^erty as the Makololo
had done, and named them the Falls of Victoria, the
only English name I have affixed to any part of the

72 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

country. . . . The whole scene is extremely beautiful ;
the banks and islands dotted over the river are adorned
with sylvan vegetation of every variety of colour and
form." Changing his canoe for a lighter one manned
by men who knew the rapids well, he descended them
till he reached an island in raid-river, on the very edge
of the lip over which the water rolls. " From the end
of the island where Ave first landed, though within a
few yards of the falls, no one could see where the vast
body of w^ater went ; it seemed to lose itself in a
transverse fissure only 80 feet wide. Creeping with
awe to the end of the island, I peered down into a large
rent which had been made from bank to bank of the
broad Zambesi, and saw that a stream 1800 yards
broad leaped down 320 feet, and then became suddenly
com})ressed into a space of 15 or 20 yards. The falls
are simply caused by a crack in a hard basaltic rock
from the right to the left bank, and then pi'olonged from
the left bank away through 30 or 40 miles of hills."
After wondering and delighted survey, he planted the
peach and apricot stones and coffee seed he had brought
from Angola, feeling sure that here they would never
want water. "I bargained for a hedge with one of the
Makololo, and if he is faithful, I have great hopes of
Mosi-oa-tunya's abilities as a nurseryman. My only fear
is the hippopotami, Avhose footprints I saw on the island.
When the garden was prepared I cut my initials on a
tree, and the date 1855, the only instance in which I
indulged in this piece of vanity."

Keasoning, as was his wont, over the geological and
geogiai)hical jn'oblems which the falls forced upon him,
he came Id tlie conclusion tluit l)efui(' the rivei' brokr

1854-57 '4 CRISIS 73

through this rent the whole country between 17° and
21° south latitude was one vast freshwater lake, a
conclusion Avhich he found on his return home that Sir
Koderick Murchison had already propounded to the
Geographical Society.

They now quitted the Zambesi and moved north-east,
the camp getting into good marching -order. There
were groups from several tribes subject to the Makololo,
who took orders from their own head-man and messed
by themselves. " Each party kneAv its own spot in the
encampment, and each took it in turn to pull grass to
make my bed, so that I lay luxuriously." And so thej
plodded on for the point where they were again to come
on the Zambesi, below the long series of rapids. Th(
western part of this region had once been denselj
peopled, and they passed again and again the remain^
of " a large town which must have been inhabited for ;
long period, for the millstones of gneiss, trap, an(
quai'tz were worn down 2^ inches perpendicular." Thi
forest was now fast resuming its undisputed reign.

The tribes amongst Avhich they came on nearing th(
Zambesi again, proved as hostile as the Chiboque ; in
deed, at the confluence of the Loangwa and Zambesi lit
encountered the most serious danger from natives he
had yet met with. As the neighbouring tribes gathered
round to hinder his crossing, and he was waiting for
canoes, he wrote in his Journal of Jani;ary 14th : " Thank
God for His great mercies thus far. How soon I may
be called before Him, my righteous Judge, I know not
... On Thy word alone I lean. The cause is Thine.
See, 0 Lord, how the heathen rise up against nie as
they did against Thy Son ... It seems a pity that the

74 DAVID LIVINGSTONE rtiAr. vi

facts about the two healthy longitudinal regions should
not be known in Christendom. Thy will be done."
And late on the same evening: "Felt much turmoil of
spirit in view of having all my plans for the Avelfare of
this great region and teeming population knocked on the
head by savages to-morrow. But Jesus came and said,
' All power is given unto me in heaven and in earth.
Go ye therefore, and teach all nations. . . . And, lo, I
am with you alway, even unto the end of the world.'
It is the word of a gentleman of the most sacred and
strictest honour, and there is an end on't. T will not
cross furtively by night as 1 intended. It Avould appear
as flight, and should such a man as T Hee % Nay verily,
1 shall take observations for longitude and latitude to-
night, though they may l)e the last. I feel quite calm
now, thank God." So he took his observations in his
small camp, surrounded by croAvds of armed natives,
and early next morning began to send off" his people,
cattle, and baggage, in the one canoe he had secured, to
an island in mid-stream, here a mile in breadth. He
remained to occupy the post of honour, being the last
man to enter the canoe ; keeping the surrounding
savages amused with his watch, burning-glass, etc., until
he could step in himself and push off", thanking them
and Avishing them peace. By night he and his whole
party were safely encamped on tlie left bank.

Here Livingstone came upon the remains of a church
and a broken ])ell with "I.H.8." and a cross, showing
that at one time the Portuguese settlements had extended
to this point, and on the 17th thoy met a man in jacket
and hat, but quite black, who had come up from Tette,
the northernmost post on the river. He told them that

1854-57 MPENDE 75

the Portuguese and natives on this bank had been at
war for the last two years. He advised them to cross
to the south bank, but they could not get canoes. They
were now in Mpende's country, the most powerful chief
of the district, and at first were threatened with attack.
Numbers of Mpende's fighting men gathered round at
half a mile's distance on the 23rd. " I ordered an ox to
be slaughtered as a means of inspiring courage, and
have no doubt we should have been victorious. . . .
The roasting of meat went on fast and furious, and my
young men said, ' You have seen us with elephants, but
you don't know what we can do with men.' " He now
sent a leg of the ox to Mpende by men who came near
as spies, and " presently two old men came from Mpende
to inquire who I was. I replied, ' I am a Lekoa ' (an
Englishman). They said, ' We don't know that tribe.
We supposed you are a Mouzunga (Portuguese), the
tribe we are fighting with.' " He then showed them his
skin, and they said, " ' No, we never saw skin so white
as that. You must be one of the tribe that loves the
black men.' I of course gladly responded in the afiirma-
tive." So the men returned to Mpende, who in council
resolved to allow them to pass. " When we knew the
favourable decision, I sent Sekwebu to purchase a canoe
for one of my men who had become very ill, upon which
Mpende I'emarked, ' This white man is truly one of our
friends. See how he lets me knoAv his afflictions.'"
From this time he did all he could to help them, sending
orders to the people of a large island lower down to
ferry them across. This was done on the 29th, at a spot
where the Zambesi was twelve hundred yards wide, and
flowing at 3| miles an hour. " I was very thankful to

76 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

find myself on the south bank, and liaving nothing else,
I sent back one of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank-
offering to Mpende."

He was now amongst unwarlikc triljcs who looked on
his men as desperadoes, the like of whom they had never
seen before. " I see you are travelling with people who
don't know how to pray," was the remark of a Banyai
hunter on seeing their headlong attack on an elephant
and wild dance round the body of the prostrate beast,
" I therefore offered the only thing I had on their be-
half " (some snuft'Avhich he had ])oured out as an ottering
to the Baremo) "and the elejjliant soon fell." Others
offered loud prayers for their success, thereby eliciting
Livingstone's admiration at their devout belief in unseen
beings. "My o\rn people, Avho are rather a degraded
lot, remarked to me as I came up, ' God gave it to us.
He said to the old beast, go up there, men are come who
will kill and eat you."

His progress now was slow Itut peacefid, giving him
leisure to dwell on and enjoy the teemiug life of the
tropical forests, the song of birds, — not so harmonious,
but as full ill volume sis in England, stilled during the
hot dry hours, but with the first shower bursting into
merry lays and loving courtship, — the Innn of insects in
the quietest parts of the forest, " whisking about in the
clear sunshine among the green glancing leaves ; but
there are invisi1>le myriads, all biimful of enjoyment,
working with never-tiring mandihles on leaves and
stalks, ;ind beneath the soil. Indeed, the universality
of organic life seems like a mantle of haj)py existence
encircling tiie M'orld, and lietokening the presence of our
benignant Father's smile on the works of His hands."

1854-57 TETTE AND MAJOR SICARD 77

So muses the great traveller, in a different frame of
mind to the dominant school of our modern philosophers.

Passing out of the forest countr}' and over a rough
stony country with no path, " on the evening of 2d
March I halted about 8 miles from Tette, and feeling too
fatigued to proceed, sent forward to the Commandant
the letters with which I had been favoured by the
Bishop of Angola and others. About 2 a.m. on the
3d we were roused by two officers and a company of
soldiers, who had been sent with the materials for a
civilised breakfast, and a 'masheela' (litter) to bring me to
Tette. My companions called me in alarm, thinking we
had been captured by armed men. When I understood
their errand, and had partaken of a good breakfast, all
my fatigue vanished, though I had just before been too
tired to sleep. It was the most refreshing breakfast I
ever partook of, and I walked the last 8 miles Avith-
out the least feeling of weariness, though the path was
so rough that one of the officers remarked to me, ' This
is enough to tear a man's life out of him.' "

He stayed a month with Major Sicard, the Com-
mandant, whose kindness to the whole party he grate-
fully acknowledged. From him he heard of the three
years' war, during Avhich Tette had been sacked. " Had
I attempted to reach this coast instead of Loanda in
1853 I should probably have been cut off. My j^resent
approach was just at the conclusion of peace, and when
the Portuguese authorities were informed that I was ex-
pected to come this way, they declared that no European
could possibly pass through the tribes. Some natives at
last came down the river, and in allusion to the sextant
and artificial horizon said ' that the son of God had

78 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, vi

come, who was able to take down tlie sun from heaven
and place it under his arm.' ]\Iajor Sicard then felt sure
this was the man he expected." Here Livingstone left
all his ]\IakoloIo but sixteen of the best canoe men, on
land which the Commandant gave them to raise food upon,
allowing them also to hunt and trade. They were well
content with their prospects, though many more would
have pi'eferred to go on with him, and he was pleased to
see that sixty or seventy had started to hunt, while the
rest had established a brisk trade in firewood, before he
started in April for Senna in Major Sicard's own boat.

Senna he found in even worse plight than Tette, the
half-caste inhabitants paying fines to the Landeens, who
treated the Portuguese outside the fort as a conquered
tribe. He left Senna on May 11th, the whole population
accompanying him to the boats. They reached Quilemane
on May 20th, and from thence he sent back all his men
but Sekwebu to Tette, where there Avas food, there to
await his return. He deposited Sekeletu's tusks A^th
Colonel Nunes, the Commandant, who promised in the
event of his death to sell them and hand the proceeds
to his men. "I explained this to the men, and they
replied, ' Nay, father, you will return to take us back to
Sekeletu.' They promised to wait till I came back, and
on my part I assured them that nothing but death
would prevent my return."

After six weeks H.M. brig Frolk arrived, with an
oflfer from the Admiral at the Cape of a passage to the
Mauritius, which he gladly accepted. He and Sekwebu
went on board on July 12th, through breakers which
swept over the pinnace. "'Is this the way you go?'
Sekwebu asked. I smiled and said, 'Don't you see

1S54-57 DEATH OF SEKWEBU 79

it v&V and tried to encourage him." They were hoisted
on board in a chair, and warmly welcomed by Captain
Peyton and his crew. Sekwebu began to pick up Eng-
lish, and was becoming a favourite with the sailors on
the voyage to the Mauritius, which they reached on
August 12th, but he seemed bewildered, and often said,
" AVhat a strange country this is ! All water together."

" When we reached the Mauritius a steamer came out
to tow us into the harbour. The constant strain on his
untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, for
during the night he became insane. I thought at first
he was drunk. He had descended into a boat, and
when I attempted to go down and bring him up he ran
to the stern and said, ' No ! no ! it is enough that I die
alone. You must not die : if you come I shall throw
myself into the water.' Perceiving that his mind was
affected, I said, 'Now, Sekwebu, we are going to Ma
Robert.' This struck a chord in his bosom, and he said,
' Oh yes ! Where is she, and where is Robert % ' and
became more composed. In the evening, however, a
fresh fit occurred. He tried to spear one of the crew,
and then jumped overboard, and though he could swim
well, pulled himself down, hand under hand, by the
chain cable. We never found the body of poor Sekwebu."

After a month's stay at the Mauritius with General
Hay, the Governor, during which he got rid of an en-
larged spleen, the result of African feA^er, he took
passage home in the P. and O. steamer Candia, and
arrived on December 12th, to find himself the most
famous man for the time in the British Isles,

CHAPTEE VTI

HOME

1857-09

In consequence of an accident to the P. and 0. steamer
in the Bay of Tunis, tlie passengers were Uinded at
Marseilles, and sent home b)^ Paris and Dover. On
landing, Livingstone hastened to Southampton, where his
wife was waiting. " Man must work, but woman must
weep." What the great explorer's wife had l)orne in
those five years may be gathered from a few lines of a
little poem of welcome, which has somehow got into
print, and so may be used here :

"You'll never leave me, darling — there's a promise in your eye ;
I may tend yon while I'm livinj^, you will watcli me when I die.
How did I live without you through those long, long years of

woe '.
It seems as the' 'tw^ould kill me to be parted from you now.
And if death but kindly lead me to the blessed home on high,
What a hundred thouisand welcomes will await you in the sky 1"

They reached London on December 9th, where the
" well-done " of a proud and grateful nation broke on
the simple pious missionary witli l)ewil(lering force and
unanimity. On the 15th, at a special meeting of
welcome at the Koyal Geographical Society, Sir Roderick
Murchison. in presenting the Patron's Gold ^rcdal. while

1857-59 HOME 81

dwelling on the thousands of miles of the dark and
hitherto unexplored continent now accurately laid down
in charts, insisted above all on the Doctor's heroic faithful-
ness to his native followers, drawing from him the protest
that Oswell, Steele, or Vardon (all present) could have
done all that he had done. On the 16th the London
Missionary Society, with Lord Shaftesbury in the chair,
welcomed him at a special meeting. A gathering was
held at the Mansion-House to consider the best form of
a testimonial, and other public receptions threatened him
from all sides.

From these he broke away in January, to visit his
mother and family at Hamilton. His father had died
while he was on his way home. " You wished so much
to see David," the old man's daughter had said in his
last hours. " Aye, very much ! very much ! but the will
of the Lord be done," he answered ; and after a pause,
"But I think I'll know whatever is worth knowing about
him. Tell him I think so, when you see him." They
told him, and as he looked at the empty chair the strong
man wept. " We bless thee, 0 Lord, for our parents :
we give thee thanks for the dead who has died in the
Lord," he prayed that night in conducting their family
worship.

On his return to London, at the end of January, he
undertook, somewhat unwillingly, to write an account of
his travels, urged thereto by Sir E. Murchison and Mr.
John Murray. "I would sooner have crossed Africa
again," he murmured, but buckled to his task.

" I begin to-morrow to write my book, and as I have
110 men waiting for me at Tette, whom I promised to
rejoin in April next, you will see I shall have enough to

G

82 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

do to get through my work here. . . . Here they laud
me till I shut my eyes for only trying to dd my duty.
They ought to \ote thanks to the IVtcis, who set me free
to discover this line new countrj'. They were determined
to shut the country and I to open it. ... I got the
gold medal as you pi'cdictcd, and the freedom of the
town of Hamilton, whicli ensures me protection from the
payment of fees if put in prison." So he wrote to vSii-
T. Maclear on January 21st, and set to work on his
book, but not even his energy could finish this unaccus-
tomed work in the time he had given himself. He took
lodgings at Chelsea, and gave himself to his work, and
to the enjoyment of family life once more, the onh'
drawback being the well-meant efforts of gentle an<l
simple to make a lion of him. It was not till the later
summer that he was again comparatively free, anil then
the round of meetings and speeches began again. The
freedom of the City of London was presented to him in
a gold box. In August he was the guest of the British
Association at their Dublin meeting. In September the
(Corporation of Glasgow, the University, and other public
bodies entertained him, and he was presented M'ith
another gold box with the freedom of the city, and with
.£2000 by the citizens as a testimonial. At Blantyre,
his native village, the Literary Institution gave a recep-
tion, and managed to get out of him the story of his
encounter with the lion. Edinburgh followed, and got
three speeches out of him : then Leeds, Liverpool, and
Birmingham : after which he wrote to Sir K. Murchison,
" Farewell to publi(^ spouting for ever. I am dead tired of
it." Oxford and ("amliridgo, however, were still to be
done in Xovcmbcr and Dofomber. whence ho retired witli

1857-59 CONSUL IN EAST AFRICA 83

Doctor's degrees. The latter University charmed him
particularly, as he found himself in the congenial society
of Sedgwick, Selwyn, and Whewell, and he gave a
memorable address in the Senate -House, which bore
remarkable fruit. It was an urgent appeal for volunteers
in missionary work. "It is deplorable to think that one
of the noblest of our missionary bodies, the Church
Missionary Society, is compelled to send to Germany for
missionaries. ... The sort of men who are wanted for
missionaries are such as I see before me. ... I beg to
direct your attention to Africa. I know that in a few
years I shall be cut off in that country, which is now
open. Do not let it be shut again. I go back to Africa
to try to open a path for commerce and Christianity ; do
you carry out the work which I have begun. I leave it
with you."

The publication of his book made him at once a
rich man, having regard to his needs and habits. This,
and the appointment of Consul for the east coast of
Africa which was offered him by Lord Palmerston, de-
termined him, after much deliberation, to resign his
connection with the London Missionary Society. They
parted on the most friendly terms, though his action was
misunderstood and sharply criticised in the (so-called)
religious press. And now his preparations for return-
ing began in earnest. His commission was signed in
February, and Lord Clarendon sent him to the Admiralty
to make his arrangements, adding, "Just come here and
tell me what you want, and I will give it you." He also
furnished him with an official letter to Sekeletu, thanking
him, in the Queen's name, for his kindness to her ser-
vant, and hoping that he would help to keep "God's

84 DA VI D LIVINGSTONE

highway " — the river Zambesi — free to all people, and to
suppress the slave-trade, which the British, as a Christian
and commercial people, hated. He found tlie Admiralty
ready to send out a large and expensive expedition, but
cut it down to strictly necessary limits.

As the day of his departure drew near, his friends in
the Royal and the Geographical Societies pressed for a
last gathering to bid him God-speed, and it was arranged
to entertain him at a public dinner on February 13th.
On the morning of that day he had an interview with the
Queen, who assured him of her good wishes : and in the
evening a company of three hundred and fift}', including
the most eminent men in England, gathered at the Free-
masons' Tavern under the presidency of Sir K. Murchison,
who dwelt again on his return from Loanda with his men,
" leaving for himself in that country a glorious name,
and proving to the people of Africa what an English
Christian is," and on the nobleness of the man who,
"after eighteen months of laudation from all classes of
his countrymen, and after receiving all the honours our
Universities and cities could shower on him, is still the
same honest true-hearted David Livingstone as Avhen he
issued from the wilds of Africa." The Duke of Argyll
and Bishop Wilberforce followed, and then Professor
Owen, Avith cordial testimony to the accuracy of his
geological observations and the happiness of his con-
jectures, tempered only by regret that he should have
destroyed the moral character of the lion. Livingstone's
reply was direct and simple as ever. He did not look,
he said, for any speedy result from his mission, but
was sang\iine for the future. He and his companions
might get in the thin end of the wedge, which England

1857-59 RETURN TO AFRICA 85

would drive liome. He rejoiced that his wife, always
the main spoke in his wheel, was to go with him. She
would be most helpful, as she was familiar with the
language, able to work and ready to endure, and well
knew that out there one must put one's hand to every-
thing. "Glad indeed am I that I am to be accompanied
by my guardian angel." For himself, with all eyes
resting on him, he felt bound to do better than he had
ever done.

The last preparations were now hurried on, and the
last letters written. In one of these, to his old friend
Young, he gave some testamentary directions, ending,
" my left arm " (the one which had been injured by the
lion and had now a double joint) "goes to Professor
Owen, mind. This is the will of David Livingstone."
To Sir Eoderick : " Many blessings be on j-ou and yours,
and if we never meet again on earth, may we through in-
finite mercy meet in heaven." To which the President
answered : " Accept my warmest thanks for your farewell
note. Believe me, my dear friend, that no transac-
tion in my somewhat long and very active life has
so truly rewarded me as my intercourse with you, for
from beginning to end it has been one •continued bright
gleam."

The expedition embarked in H.M. Colonial steamer
Femi at Liverpool on March 10th, 1859. They took
Oswell, their youngest child, with them, leaving the
others in England. From on board in the Mersey he
wrote his last note to his eldest son :

" My dear Tom — We are off again, and trust that He
who rules the waves will watch over us and remain with
you, to bless us and make us blessings to our fellow-men.

86 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap. Vii

The Lord be with you and be very gracious to yoix.
Avoid and hate sin, and cleave to Jesus as your Saviour
from guilt. Tell grandma Ave are off again, and Janet
will tell all about us."

So he went away again, having, as the result of his
eighteen months at home — as was said with no great
exaggeration at the farewell dinner — found Africa the
dark continent, and left it the most intcrestiug part of
the globe to Englishmen.

CHAPTEK VIII

THE ZAMBESI EXPEDITIOIS" — TO LINYANTl AND BACK
1859-61

Consul Livingstone, on the deck of the Fearl, returning
to the dark continent as the representative of the first
naval and colonial power in the Avorld, commander of
a national ex})edition thoroughly furnished and adapted
to the Avoi'k, and with a free hand to carry on that
Avork of exploring and civilising according to his own
judgment, is perhaps the most strikingly successful hgure
Avhich has appeared in our country during this century.
The Scotch peasant's son, without resources, except wdiat
Avere furnished by native Africans, discouraged by his
employers and his family, and stricken Avith almost con-
tinual fcATT, had opened a path across Africa, for the
most part through countries in Avhich no Avhite man was
ever knoAvn to have been before him. What might not
Consul Li\-ingstone, Avith the Queen's gold band round
his cap and England behind liim, noAV accomplish'?
With good reason all men's hopes ran high, and, on the
Avhole, were not disappointed. Nevertheless, as in the
case of so many of God's great Avorkers, there is no
repetition of that first triumphant success. The poAvers
of evil muster more strongly after the first surprise, and

88 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, viii

God's servant is alloAved to be " evil entreated 1)}' tyrants,
and has to wander out of the way in the wilderness,"
thankful in the end, while he himself has been })urified
in the fire, and taught his own weakness and his Lord's
strength, if his Master's work has only not gone hack in
his hands.

He had cut the staff of the expedition down to a
commander and ci'ew for the steam launch (the Mn Robert,
which was taken on hoard the Pearl in sections) ; a
botanist, Dr. Kirk;^ a mining geologist, Mr. C. Living-
stone ; and an assistant, Mr. E. Thornton. To each of
these he gave separate written instructions as to their
special work, impressing on all that "Her Majesty's
Government attached most importance to the moral
influence which might be exercised on the minds of
the natives by a well-regulated and orderly household
of Europeans, setting an example of consistent moral
conduct, treating the people with kindness, teaching
them to make experiments in agriculture, relieving
their wants, explaining the more simple arts, imparting
to them religious instruction as far as they are cai)able
of receiving it, and inculcating peace and goodwill."

They sailed on March 10th, 1859, and reached the
east coast, the scene of their work, in May. They had
touched at Sierra Leone, and taken on board twelve
Kroomen for the river navigation, and had i-eceived an
enthusiastic reception at the Cape, which the Doctor con-
trasts drily in his Journal with his last visit five years
before. Here the first of his serious trials met him.

1 Tlie present Sir John Kh'k, G.C.M.G., F.R.S., whose vahiahle
career on the east coast, as H.M. Tolitical Agent, has made it.s
mark everywhere in those regions. He is the sole survivor of the
original Zambesi Expedition.

1859-61 THE MA ROBERT 89

Mrs. Livingstone was so unwell that he had to leave
her and Oswell with Dr. and Mrs. Moffat, who had come
down to meet them. On their arrival on the east coast
their first object was to examine thoroughly the four
channels by Avhich the Zambesi reaches the sea. While
this was in progress under Mr. Skead, R.X., Surveyor
to the Cape Government, who had come on with
them from Cape Town, the Ma Robert was screwed
together and launched. The Kongone branch was found
to be the best, and up this they sailed through twenty
miles of mangrove jungle, full of strange birds and game,
to the broad Zambesi. Beyond lay a fertile tract
fifty miles broad, and thickly inhabited by Portuguese
" colonos " or serfs, eager traders, which in good hands
" would supply all Europe with sugar." Here, forty
miles from the bar, the Pearl had to stop, and all the
goods and supplies on board were landed on an island,
whence they were gradually taken up, in the Ma
Iioheri and pinnace, to Hhupanga and Senna. During
this work the first difficulty arose from the desire of
Livingstone to get them all out of this hotbed of fever
as soon as possible, and so pressing on the work. " The
weak-minded " struck for no work on Sundays, and full
hours for meals. " It is u pity," the Doctor comments,
"that some people cannot see that the true and honest dis-
charge of the duties of every-day life is Divine service."
The naval officer in command now left him, and from
that time the duties of cajjtain were added to his other
responsibilities. 0})posite Shupanga they found war
raging between a rebel half-caste and tlie Portuguese,
and, coming into the thick of the fighting, the Portuguese
governor in conmiunil, avIio was prostrated with fever,

go DA V//) LIVINGSTONE chap, viii

was carried down to the steamer by Livingstone. In this
district they found the Portuguese generally easy-going
masters to their slaves, while the half-castes were almost
always brutal, justifying the saying, " God made Avhite
men and black men, but the devil made half-castes."
Steadily, but slowly, the Ma Robert steamed up to Tette,
and on until stopped by the Kebrabasa Rapids, anchoring
at night in the stream. "Why don't you ccmie on shore
and .slee}) like other people ?" the natives hailed from the
banks. "We are held to the bottom with iron: you
maj'^ see we are not Hke you Bazunga," the Makololo
pioudly answered ; for at Tette he had found liis
Makololo, who, by the help of Major Sicard, had main-
tained themselves, though thirty of their number had
died of smallpox. " They told us you would never come
back ; but Ave trusted you, and now we shall Iuiac sleep,"
the survivors said, welcoming him with enthusiasm.
There was no need to take them back at once to Lin
yanti, so the next few months were devoted to a thorough
exjAoration of the Zambesi up to the Kebrabasa Rapids,
which convinced him that, had he tried to descend that
river in canoes on his former journey, he would have
been certaiidy lost. On the other hand, Ijivingstone was
convinced tliat a more jtowerful steamer might be taken
up dm'ing tlie Hoods, and so o])en the river' from Kel)ra-
basa up to the Victoi'ia, Falls, in the heart of Africa and
the Makololo country. So he wi'ote to his Government,
who in due coiu'se responded by sending him t)ut the
Pioneer. Meantime he turned to doing what new work'
of exploration he could witli the. Ma Robert. That un
lucky vessel had already lost the name of whieli slie had
proved herself unwdilliy. and Keen re-christened the

1859-61 FIRST ASCENT OF THE SHIRk 91

Asthmatic, from the puffing and groaning with which
she managed her six or seven miles an hour, being easily
passed by the native canoes. She consumed a monstrous
amount of fuel, and was already leaking badly. How-
ever, bad as she was, he would make the best of her till
she sank, and so — not without sarcastic comment on the
eminent shipbuilder, who had sold her to the expedition
a great bargain "for the love of the cause"— he pro-
ceeded to explore in her the Shire, the largest northern
affluent of the Zambesi between Tette and the coast. The
Portuguese declared the river to be unnavigable. They
had tried it, and found that not even canoes could force
their way through the mass of aquatic plants ; while the
Manganja who lived on the banks were as hostile as
they were warlike. However, the Doctor had learned
to distrust the Portuguese as well as to rely on himself,
and so started up the Shire in January, 1859, navigating
the Asthmatic himself, though, as he wrote to Miss
Whately : " As far as my liking goe.s, I would as soon
drive a cab in November fogs in London as be skipper
in this hot sun." " Our Government," said the nearest
Portuguese Commandant, " has ordered us to assist and
protect you, but you go where we dare not follow, and
how are we to protect j^ouf'

The Asthmatic, hoAvever, went "snorting" through
the duckweed easily enough, and on the river, accom-
panied on the banks by crowds of Manganja fully armed,
who had sent away their Avomen and passed word of
the strange invasion from one river-village to another.
The duckweed disai)})eared twenty-five miles up the
river, and the Doctor landed and made friends with the
chief Tingauc, " an elderly well-made man, gray -headed,

92 DAVID LIVINGSTONE rHAr. vni

and over 6 feet high," who called his people together to
hear what the stranger's objects were. These had to be
stated by an interpreter, as the dialect differed from that
of Tette, so that the Doctor only understood enough to
know whether the interpreter Avas reporting faithfully.
This he did on the whole, but with "an inveterate
tendency to wind up with 'the Book says you are to
grow cotton, and the English are to come and buy it,' or
M-ith some joke of his own which might have been
ludicrous had it not been seriously distressing." He
found the Manganja already with some knowledge of
the English efforts to suppress the slave-trade, and
readily assenting to his earnest teaching that "the
Father of all was seriously displeased with His children
for selling and killing each other. . . . The bearing of
the j\Ianganja at this time was very independent — a
striking contrast to the cringing attitude they afterwards
assumed when the cruel scoiirge of slave-hiuiting })assed
over the country." Farther \ij) they were stopjjod l)y four
falls, Avhicli they named the Murchison Cataracts, and
returned to Tette without further efforts for the i)resent.
In jNlarch they returned again to the cataracts, made
friends Avith the local chief, Chibisa, and leaving the
steamer opposite his village, the two Doctors, with twenty-
five Makololo, started north for the great lake of which
the natives spoke. Their guides failed and deserted, and
the natives were hostile, but they jM-essed on and ui)wards,
initil on April 18th they discovered Lake Shirwa, at a
height of eighteen hundred feet, and upwards of sixty
miles in length, in the midst of a beautiful and rich
country ])ounded by mountains eight thousand feet high.
Here thev heard of a nuu-li lai'u^or lake to tlic noith, luit

1859-61 LAKE NYASSA 93

not wishing just then to try the native temper further,
they here turned back after taking observations, rejoined
the steamer, and reached Tette on June 23rd.

He now descended the Zambesi to send the Kroomen
home, get a supply of provisions, and beach the Asthmatic
for repairs, returning in August for a third ascent of the
Shir^, and a push forward to the great northern lake
which they had as yet been unable to reach.

On the 29th they left the steamer and started — four
whites, thirty-two Makololo, and four guides — for the
discovery of Lake Nyassa. They found the Manganja
beyond the Murchison Falls an industrious race, work-
ing in iron, cotton, clay, and making baskets and fish-nets,
and men and women turning out for field -labour, but
greatly addicted to the beer which they brew in large
quantities and drink in a few daj^s and nights, as it will
not keep. They followed the Shire above the cataracts,
a broad and deep river with little current, arriving at
the tillage of the chief Muana-Moesi in the middle of
September. Here they were assured that the river
stretched on for " two months," and then came out from
between perpendicular rocks Avhich could not be passed.
"Let us go back to the ship," said the Makololo; "it is
no use trying to find this lake." "We shall see the
wonderful rocks at any rate," said the Doctor. "Yes,"
they pleaded, " and when yoii see them you will just
want to see something else." The chief, who came up
later, admitted that there was a lake. Scarcely had he
left them Avhen a wail arose from the river. A crocodile
had carried off his principal wife : the Makololo seized
their spears and rushed to the river, but too late. " The
white men came," Muana-]\Ioesi reported to his neigh-

94 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

boui-s, "bathed and rubbed themselves vith a white
medicine" (soap), "and his wife going afterwards to
bathe was taken by a crocodile ; he did not know
whether in consequence of the medicine or not." On
their return they were looked on Avith fear, all the men
leaving this village till they passed. At noon on Sep-
tember 16th they discovered Lake Nyassa.

Here Livingstone Avas confirmed in his conviction that
this splendid lake, with its bracing climate and rich banks,
woulil become the key of Eastern Central Africa. But
the curse of the slave-trade was already on it. They
met Arabs with chain-gangs. The Makololo appealed
to the Doctor : " Why won't you let us choke them ?
You call us bad, but are we like these fellows?"

To liberate these slaves would have been useless, as
the neigh1)0uring villagers would have re-taken and sold
them again, so the Doctor sorrowfully refused ; liut the
glorious country seemed to inspire him, and he wrote
home : " I have a strong desire to commence a sj'stem
of colonisation among the honest poor; I would give
.£2000 or <£3000 for the purpose. Colonisation from
such a country as ours ought to be'one of hoi)e, not of
despair. It ought not to l)e looked on as the last shift
a family can come to, but the perfoimance of an impera-
tive duty to our blood, our country, our religion, and to
human-kind. ... I wonder why we can't have the
old monastery system without celibacy. In no i)art of
the world I have been in does the prospect seem so
inviting and promise so much influence."

Again he had to turn back, and on October fith, 1859,
they reached the ship once more.

He now felt that the time had cdme for taking l)ack

i8w-6i RETURN OF THE MAK'OLOLO 95

the Makololo, 1)ut liefore startiiit;- west had to run down
to Kongone foi^ sup})lies and letters. These arrived in
H.M. ship Lynx, Captain Berkeley, but unluckily the
letter-bags were lost in the capsizing of a boat in the
surf on the bar. With the efficient help of Captain
Berkeley the Asthmatic was once more patched up, and
they returned to Tette. Leaving her there, with the
remaining two English sailors, the Doctor started west
on May 15th. Several of the Makololo had married
slaves and had children. By the Portuguese law all
Imptized children are free, but the law was of no force
on the Zaml)esi. The officers laughed and said, "Lisbon
laws are very stringent, but somehow, possibly from the
heat, here they lose all their force." Only one woman,
the Avife of a Makololo, accompanied them. SeA era!
men stayed at Tette, while the rest started, though they
were told they could stay if they liked. "Contact with
slaves had destroyed their sense of honour ; they would
not go in daylight, but decamped in the night, in only
one instance, however, taking our goods. By the time
we had got well into the Kebrabasa hills, thirty men,
nearly one-third of the party, had turned back."

Livingstone was never so happy as on one of these
long tramps, Avhere the camp was made up in the most
orderly manner night after night, each group having
their allotted place and fire imder their head-man, with
the fire of the Englishmen in the centre. He recounts
the quaint talk which he heard on many subjects.
Political discussions, as at home, moved them most.
" The whole camp is roused, and the men shout to one
another fi'om the difierent fires. The misgovernment of
chiefs furnishes an inexhaustible theme. 'We could

96 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, vin

govern ourselves better,' they cay. ' What is the use
of chiefs at all % They don't Avork. The chief is fat and
has })lcnty of \\nves, whilst we who do the hard work
have hunger and oidy (jne wife, more likely none.
Now this must be bad, unjust, and wrong.' All shout
a loud ehe, equivalent to our 'Hear, hear.' Next the
head-men Kanyata and Tulja, with his loud voice, take
up the question on the loj'al side. ' The chief is the
father of his j^eople. Can there be people without a
father, ehl God made the chief. Who says the chief
is not wise'? He is wise, but his children fools.' Tuba
goes on generally till he has silenced all opposition."

They averaged two and a half miles an lioiu'. and
marched six hours a day, the Doctor trying in all ways
to make the march a pleasure. The four Englishmen
had to do the shooting for food, and yet were surprised
to find that they could tire their men out. The Euro-
pean constitution, Livingstone thinks, " has a power of
endurance, even in the tropics, greater than that of the
hardiest meat-eating Africans."

Parts of the country, formerly i^opulous, they found
deserted. Lions aboimdedat many places. The "majestic
sneak," as tlie Doctor names the king of beasts, would
come near the camp and roar, attracted b}^ the smell of
meat. On these occasions the men, wlio -half believed
the superstition that he is a chief in disguise, would
remonstrate. Tu])a : " You a chief, eh % Yoit call your-
self a chief, do you'? What kind of chief are you to
come sneaking I'ound in the dark trying to steal our
buffalo meat % Are you not ashamed of yourself \ A
pretty chief truly : you are like tlie scavenger beetle,
and think of yourself only. You hav(^ not the heart of

1859-61 MR. BALDWIN 97

a chief. Why don't you kill your own beef f Another
sedate man, who seldom spoke: "We are travelling
peaceably through the country back to our own chief.
We never killed peojjle or stole anything. The buffalo
meat is ours, and it does not become a great chief like
you to be prowling about in the dark like a hy?ena to
steal the meat of strangers. Go and hunt for yourself.
There is plenty of game in the forest."

In June they came amongst old acquaintances, Pan-
gola and Mpende ; and still travelling on, sighted Sema-
lembore's mountains on July 9th. They sent him a
present, and soon were in bracing air three thousand
feet above sea-level, with superb views of the great Zam-
besi valley. From Kafue to the Falls they were amongst
friends, and plentifully supplied, the men clapping their
hands as they entered and left the villages, and the
women lulilooing Avith the shrill call of " let us sleep "
or "peace." Alas, there was cause for the cry, for here
Livingstone became aware that Portuguese slave-dealers
Avere following in his footsteps. " We were now so fully
convinced," he writes, "that in opening the country
through which no Portuguese durst pass previously, we
Avere made the unwilling instruments of spreading the
slave-trade, that had we not })romised to return Avith
the Makololo Ave should have left the Zambesi and gone
to the RoA'uma or some other inlet to the interior."
They reached Sekeletu's countiy on August 4th, and
soon saw the columns rising from the Victoria Falls,
making a detour to visit them again and make a more
careful inspection. Here they found Mr. Baldwin, a
Natal gentleman, in a sort of durance to Mashotlane,
the neighbouring head-man. He had arrived Avithout a

98 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, viii

giiide by the aid of a pocket-compass, and, while Mashot-
lane was ferrying him over, jumped in and swam ashore.
"If he had been devoured by a crocodile the English
would have blamed us. He nearly did us a great injury,
therefore we said he must pay a fine.'

From Mr. Baldwin Livingstone heard news which
deeply grieved him. Mr. Baldwin had found a missionary
party bound for Linyanti, at a well in the desert, starving.
He shot game for them and enal)led them to get to Lin-
yanti. Here Mr. Helmore, the chief missionary, at once
began active work preaching and teaching, but in a few
weeks his wife sickened of fever and died. He held on
gallantly himself, but was soon down and dead withiii
a month, as were also three other of the nine Euro})eans
in the mission. Helmore's associate missionar}^, who
was young and ignorant of the language, went back
with their native servants, four of whom also had died.
The Doctor felt that if he had been a few months earlier
all might have been saved, for he had now almost a
specific for the fever. Dr. Kirk, after experimenting
on himself with results which threatened disaster, had
recovered almost at once on taking Livingstone's pills.

They found a sad state of things at Sesheke, where they
met Sekeletu. He had been struck by leprosy and was
isolated. He believed himself bewitched, and had put
several chief men to death, had altered Sebituane's policy
of conciliating the tribes he had subdued or attracted,
and advanced none but ])ure Makololo. Moreover, there
had been a long drought, which had scattered the people
in search of food ; the inferior chiefs were setting up for
themselves, and Sebituane's emjnre was fast crumbling
to pieces. However, Sekeletu received them most hospit-

1 859-6 1 RETURN TO TETTE 99

ablj^, was pleased with the presents they brought, and
insisted on their treating him for his leprosy. They
did not entirely cure him. but left him in better spirits
and health. Dr. Livingstone went on to Linyanti to
get medicines and other things out of the waggon he
had left there in 1853. He was received with every
demonstration of joy, the town-crier proclaiming before
dawn, " I have dreamed ! I have dreamed ! that Monare "
(the Doctor) " was coming, and that the ti'ibe would live
if you prayed G-od and gave heed to the word of Monare,"
and Sekeletu's wives supplying abundant provisions. All
was as he had left it, except that the white ants had eaten
one of his waggon wheels. He returned to Sesheke, where
they stayed till September, holding regular services as
well as doctoring chief and people. On the 16th they
started Avest again, accompanied by men selected by
Sekeletu, who behaved sf)lendidly. Thus on the canoes
coming suddenly into rapids where the waves began to
fill them, two men out of each jumped out at once and
swam alongside, guiding the canoes. They then ordered
a Batoka man to jump out, as " the white men must be
saved." "I can't swim," said the Batoka man. "Jump
out then, and hold on to the canoe," which he did at
once, and they got safely down.

They reached Tette and the Asthmatic on November
21st, having been absent six months. The two sailors were
well, and had kept the steamer afloat by constant patch-
ing, besides exercising other industries. Two sheep and
two dozen fowls had been left with them, but they had
bought two monkeys, who ate all the eggs till the
natives stole the fowls. A hippopotamus came up one
night and laid waste their vegetable garden ; the sheejj

loo DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, viii

broke into their cotton-patch when it was in flower and
ate all but the stems, and then the crocodiles got tlie
sheep. They also set np as smiths, and a I'ortuguese
brought them a double-barrelled rifle to be browned.
" I think I knows how," said one, Avhose father was a
blacksmith, "j'ouVe only to put the barrels in the fire."
This was done, and to Jack's amazement the barrels
came asunder. They stuck them together Avith resin
and sent them back with a message ; " it was all they
could do," they said, "and they wouldn't charge him for
the job." They would only pay market-price for pro-
visions, and if the traders raised it they brought out a
chameleon, of which the natives have a great dread,
and the moment they saw it jumped overboard.

They now started in the Asthmatic for Kongone, to meet
the new steamer which they expected from England
On the way down, that remarkable vessel was plainly on
her last voyage. " Our engineer has been doctoring her
bottom with fat and patches, and pronounces it safe to
go down the river slowly. Every day a now leak breaks
out, and he is in, })lastering and scoring, the pump going
constantly. I never expected to find her afloat, but the
engineer had nothing else to do, and it saves us from
buying dear canoes from the Portuguese." She held
out until December 20th, when the Journal notes :
" One (lay above Senna the Ma Ttohert stuck on a sand-
bank and filled, so we had to go ashore and leave her."

CHAPTER IX

THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION
1861-62

As he neared Kongone Livingstone was rejoicing in the
thought of the Universities Mission, which was on its
way out, and from Avhich he hoped great things, and
wrote : "I am greatly delighted at the prospect of a
Church of England Mission to Central Africa." He had
not long to wait, as the Pioneer arrived off the bar, with
Bishop Mackenzie and his staff, on January 31st, 1861.
The only fault of the Pioneer was that she drew too
much Avater for the Shire at this season ; and this, to-
gether with, the wish of the home Government, turned
him from the immediate planting of the Mission on or near
its banks to the exploration of the Rovuma. The mouth
of that river is north of the Portuguese boundary, and
it seemed likely that it came from the north of Lake
Nyassa. If this were so, it might prove in many ways
the best route for the interior, and so the best situation
for the Mission. Accordingly they sailed for the Rovuma
in the Pioneer, and, Avith the Lyra accompanying, ex-
plored some hundred miles of its banks, until, the
March floods being over, they could get no higher and
returned to the Zambesi. Living-stone noAV resolved to

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

settle the Mission on the Shire, and then explore Lake
Nyassa, and the Rovuma from the lake downwards.

When they reached the upper Shire the water was
low, and the toil of getting the Pioneer over the frequent
sandbanks excessive. Anchors had to be laid out ahead,
and the capstans worked. Livingstone's friendship for
the Bishop and his companions, Scudamore and Horace
Waller, grew rapidly as he saw them ever ready
and anxious to lend a hand in hauling, and working as
hard as any one on board. But the clouds were already
gathering. As they ajjproached the Manganja country
on their way to Chibisa, the most powerful chief of the
tribe, they heard sad tidings. The slave-gangs from
Tette and other Portuguese settlements were in the
country. They had followed Livingstone's steps in
1860, and on pretence of being "liis children" had first
cajoled the natives, and then set tribe against tribe,
buying captives from both sides and marching them
off in gangs to the coast. Everywhere they found
villages, populous and prosperous on their last visit,
deserted and pillaged. On July 15th they halted
at the village of their old friend Mbame. News came
that a slave-gang Avould be passing presently. A hur-
ried consultation was held. "Shall we interfered" In
a few minutes the long line of manacled men, women,
and children came wending their way round the hill_
and into the valley, on the side of which the village
stood. The black drivers, armed with muskets and
bedecked with various articles of finery, marched
jauntily in the front, middle, and rear of the line, some
of them blowing exultant notes out of long tin horns.
" The instant the fellows caught sight of us they bolted

i86i-62 SLAVE-GANGS 103

like mad into the forest. The chief of the party alone
remained, as he, fx'om being in front, had his hand
tightly grasped by a Makololo." He proved to be a well-
known slave of the Commandant of Tette, the successor
of Livingstone's friend, Major Sicard, who had been
recalled. The slaves, eighty -four in number, were
liberated ; all but four proved to be captives taken in
war. "The others tied and starved us," a small boy
said. " You cut the ropes and bid us eat. What sort of
people are youl Where did you come from?" The
Bishop had been away bathing, but on his return
approved, and attached the Avhole to his Mission. In
the next few days' progress they scattered several more
slave-gangs. The Bishop now accepted the ofter of
Chigunda, a friendly Manganja chief, to settle at Ma-
gomero, his village. Before leaving the mission Living-
stone agreed with the Bishop to visit the Ajawa chief,
who was making Avar on the Manganja. They started
on the 22nd, met crowds of Manganja in flight, found
villages they had left prosperous two years before
deserted and destroyed, the corn poured out in cart-
loads along the paths. At two o'clock they came on a
burning village, and heard triumphant shouts mingled
with the wail of the Manganja women over their slain.
" The Bishop then engaged us in fervent prayer ; and
on rising from our knees, we saw a long line of Ajawa
warriors with their captives coming round the hillside."
The head-man left the path and stood on an ant-hill. He
was told that they had come for a peaceful interview,
but the Ajawa, flushed with success, yelled, "Nkondo,
Nkondo " (war, Avar), and closed round till within fifty
yards, shooting poisoned arrows, one of Avhich passed

104 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, ix

between the Bishop and Livingstone. Some four of the
Ajawa -who had guns now opened fire, and then " we were
obliged in self-defence to fire and drive them off. Only
two captives escaped to ns, but probably most of the
prisoners fled elsewhere in the confusion. AVe returned
to the village we had left in the morning after a hungry,
fatiguing, and most unpleasant day."

It was now debated whether the Mission should aid
the Manganja against the Ajawa. " No," was Living-
stone's advice; "don't interfere in native quarrels."
Early in August he left the Mission, on a i)leasant
site at Magomero, surrounded by stately shady trees.
Everything promised fairly. The weather was delight-
ful. Provisions poured in very cheap. " The Bishop,
with characteristic ardour, began learning the language ;
Mr. Waller began building, and Mr. Scudamore impro-
vised a sort of infant school for the children, than which
there is no better way for acquiring an unwritten
tongue." It was November before Livingstone saw the
Bishop again, on his return from Lake Nyassa, which
he now resolved to explore thoroughly.

He started with Dr. Kirk, Charles Livingstone, and
one white sailor, and a Makololo crew for the four-oared
gig of the Pioneer, which was carried by hired natives
past the forty miles of the rapids which he named the
Murchison Falls, in which the Shire descends twelve hilii-
dred feet. Ab,* e them the Shir6 was broad and deep,
with a current of only one mile an hour, and practically
a southern extension of the lake, into which they sailed on
September 2nd. From Cape Maclear they found the lake
upwards of two hundred miles long, and surrounded by
a dense population, industrious and friendly on all the

iS6i-62 ARRIVAL OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE 105

central and southern banks. I^vingstone compares it to
the Sea of C4alilee. In the northern part all was changed.
The lawless tribe of the Mazitu (Zulus) who dwelt in
the highlands swept down on the lake tribes almost at
will, plundering and enslaving ; and there was a regular
crossing-place for the Arab dhows with their cargoes of
slaves. He learnt afterwards from the Consul at Zanzi-
bar that nineteen thousand slaves passed yearly through
that custom-house from this region. After a survey of the
lake, and noting all the principal features, he retui-ned
to the Pioneer at Chibisa's early in November, impressed
more than ever with the value of Lake Nyassa as the
key of Central Africa. Here the Bishop came to see
him, reporting cheerfully of the prospects at Magomero,
and of his hope of peace with the A jawa, whom . the
Manganja had defeated wath the aid of the Mission.
Livingstone had his misgivings, but, after making an ap-
pointment to meet the Bishop in January, when he hoped
to bring up JNliss Mackenzie and other English, started
for the coast. It proved a long and tedious journey, the
Pioneer being stranded on one sandbank of the Shire for
five weeks. Here occiu-red the first death in the expedi-
tion, that of the carpenter's mate. When they reached
the sea, early in January, 1862, they found that H.M.S.
Gurgon, A\-ith Miss Mackenzie on board, and the sections
of the Lady Nyassa steamer for the lake, had been off
the bar, but not finding them had sailed for Mozam-
bique. There Avas nothing for it but to wait, and on
the last of January the Gorgon hove in sight again,
towing a brig, and the Pioneer started out to meet her.
"I have steamboat in the brig," signalled the Gorgon.
" Welcome news,"' Livingstone answered " Wife

io6 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, ix

aboard," came next. "Accept my best thanks," Living-
stone answered. Mrs. Livingstone, Miss Mackenzie, with
others for the Mission, and the Rev. James Stewart,
sent out by the Committee of the Scotch Free Church
to survey for a Mission station, came on shore next day.

Ca})tain Wilson uf the Gorgon threw himself into the
Avork zealously, and, leaving his ship at the bar, went up
with them in the Pioneer to Shupanga, where his men
put the Lady Nyassa together for Livingstone. While
this was in progress the Captain himself started in boats
to take ]\Iiss Mackenzie, Mrs. Burrup, and the rest up
to the Bishop at Magomero. On the way he met the
news of the Bishop's death on January 31st, and re-
turned to Shupanga with the sad news and the two
poor ladies, reaching it on March 11th.

It was from the Makololo, who had settled at the
junction of the Shire and the Euo, the Bishop's river,
that they heard the story. The Bishop had sent a party
to find a shorter route to the Shir6 from Magomero. They
were attacked in a slave-trading village and two Man-
ganja carriers captured. The wives came to the Bishop
imploring him to rescue them. At last he complied,
and, taking with him a guard of the JNIakololo (who
were delighted with the chance of " eating the sheep
of the slave-traders"), rescued the captives, and burned
the village of the captors. The Bishop and his party
returned to Magomero. He was ill and exhausted, but
though unfit for travelling started at once with Mr.
Burrup to keep an appointment at Chibisa's. On the
way his canoe upset, and he lost all his medicines, tea,
coffee, and clothing. They got to a small island on the
Ruo, where the Bishop died after three weeks' prostration.

i86i-62 DEATH OF BISHOP MACKENZIE 107

]\Ir. Burrup, after burying his chief, was carried back
by the faithful Makololo to Magomero, where he too
died.

"This ^nll hurt us all," Livingstone mused sadly,
resting his head on his hand in the little cabin of the
Pioneer. When the news reached home an angry con-
troversy arose, some blaming the Biehop, some Living-
stone. Though bound to admit that he had given counsel
to the Mission never to interfere in native c^uarrels, the
Doctor, mth characteristic generosity, declared that had
he been there he should have taken the same view with
the Bishop. "The blow is quite bewildering," he wrote
to the Bishop of Cape To'vvn. " The two strongest men
so quickly cut down, and one of them, humanly speaking,
indispensable to success. ... I cannot help feeling sadly
disturbed in view of the eti'ect the news may have at
home. I shall not swerve a hair's -breadth from my
work while life is spax^ed, and I trust the supporters of
the Mission may not shrink back from all they have set
their hearts to."

CHAPTER X

RECALL — VOYAGE TO INDIA

1863-64

It was with a sad heart that Livingstone carried Captain
Wilson and the bereaved ladies down to Konyone to
meet the Gorgon. She had been obliged to leave the bar
from stress of weather, and the Pioneer was detained
at that most unhealthy spot till April 4th, when she re-
turned, and Captain Wilson sailed away, taking with him
the heartfelt gratitude of Livingstone for his splendid help
and sympathy. The Pioneer steamed back to Shupanga
on April 1 1 th, bearing a fever-stricken freight. Then came
the last few days of his married life. There had always
been in their intercourse "what would be thought by
some more than a decorous amount of merriment and
play. ... 1 said to her a few days before her fatal illness,
' We old bodies ought now to be more sober, and not
play so much.' ' Oh no,' she said : ' you must ahvays
be as playful as you have always been. ... I have
always believed it to be the true way, to let the head
grow wise, but keep the heart young and playful.'"

On the 21st of April she was stricken with the fever,
on the 25th she became delirious, on the 27th (Sunday) she
died, and Mr. Stewart found the man who had " faced so

1S63-64 DEATH OF MRS. LIVIXGSTONE 109

many deaths, and braved so many dangers, now utterly
broken down, and Aveeping like a child." "Oh, my
Mary, my Mary ! how often Ave have longed for a quiet
home since you and I were cast adrift at Kolobeng.
. . . She rests by the large baobab tree at Shupanga, 60 feet
in circumference. The men asked to be allowed to mount
guard till we had got the grave built with bricks dug
from an old house." "Kongone, May llth. — My dear,
dear Mary has been this evening a fortnight in heaven.
. . . For the first time in my life I feel wilHng to die.
D. L." So comments the Journal.

The heading of the last extract, " Kongone," shows
that even this sorrow was not allowed to interrupt his
work. He had gone down again to bring up the last
portions of the Lady Nyassa, which was now finished and
launched on June 23rd, too late for ascending the Shire.
The December rains must set in before she could be got
up to the Miu-chison Falls. He turned once more to the
EoAOima, ascending one hundred and fifty-six miles in
boats, in the hope that it might be found to come from the
northern end of Lake Nyassa. Helped by the captain of
H.M.S. Orestes, he now satisfied himself that there was no
water-way to the east coast from that lake. On the upper
part the character of the people changed. They became
treacherous and hostile, and there was no trade, for here
the baleful track of the Arab slave- dealers crossed the
river. Livingstone returned to the ship a more deter-
mined enemy than ever of the traffic, which was ruining
the whole region. He reached the Zambesi in November,
but only got up to Shupanga by December 19th. He
was evidently rather relieved to find that the Zambesi
must remain the highway to Lake Nyassa and the counti-y

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

beyond. '" It may seem weak," he wrote to Sir R
Murchison, " to feel a chord Aabrating to the dust of
her who rests on the banks of the Zambesi, and to think
that the path by that is consecrated by her remains."

In January, 1863, he was working up the Shir6 once
more in the Pioneer, the Lady. Nyassa in tow, meaning to
unscrew the latter, carry her past the Murchison Falls,
and launch her on the lake. All his former experience
was dwarfed in horror on this voyage. The banks,
so flourishing eighteen months before, were now a desert,
the few survivors cowering in the river -swamps. In
the mornings the paddles had to be cleared of corpses.
" The corpses we saw floating down the river were only a
remnant of those that had perished, whom their friends
from weakness could not bury, nor the overgorged croco-
diles devour." They visited the Bishop's grave, and
found the relics of the Mission. Dickenson, Scudamore,
and Thornton were dead since the higher land of Mago-
mero had been abandoned. What wonder that Dr.
Kirk and Charles Livingstone broke down now and had
to be sent home, though not till the former had seen
Livingstone through a bad attack of dysentery ! He had,
however, been joined by Young from the Gorgon, and
Rae the engineer still held out — the last Englishman left
of the original expedition. But nothing could daunt the
old hero, who prei)ared to unscrew the Lady Nyassa and
carry her sections past the falls, there to be put together
again. He had prepared the first part of the road over
which she was to be carried when a despatch recalling
the exi)e(lition was received from Lord Eussell.

For this he was not unprepared. The local Portu-
guese authorities had I'oused their (Government, who had

1863-64 RECALL III

been pressing at the English Foreign Office their objec-
tions to his action in Africa. The failure of the Universi-
ties Mission probably hastened Lord Russell's action.
"The Grovernment has behaved well to us throughout,"
Livingstone wrote, " and I feel thankful to them for en-
abling us to carry on the experiment. But the Portuguese
dogged our footsteps, and, as is generally understood, with
the approbation of their home Government, neutralised
our labours." To Mr. Waller he wrote : "I don't know
Avhether I am to go on the shelf or not. If I do, I make
Africa that shelf. If the Lady Nyassa is well sold, I shall
manage." He had spent £6000 on her — more than half
of all he had earned by his writings. It was, however,
impossible to get the Pioneer down before December,
when she was to be handed back to the Government,
so in the meantime he resolved on another exploring
trip. He fixed on the north-north-west, in order to satisfy
himself whether any large river flowed into Nyassa from
Central Africa ; and hoped to get as far as Lake Bemba,
not yet reached by any white man, and to get informa-
tion as to the great slave-route to the west coast, which
he had already crossed to the east of Lake Nyassa.

He started on August 15th with one European com-
panion and five Makololo, whom he held to be worth fifty
of any of the eastern tribes. The men of that tribe
whom he had brought from Central Africa had formed
a strong settlement, with others who had joined them,
near the Murchison Falls, and having guns were un-
molested by the slave-traders. These had been driven
back from another tract of country through which they
now passed. Livingstone found the people friendly but
suspicious. He was refreshed on this part of the journey

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

by hearing again the merry laugh of the women, " the
sound of Avhich docs me good." It proved to l>e a won-
drously fertile country, with occasional scenes of great
beauty ; one, the Vale of Goa, reminding him of the
Thames at Richmond. On September 5th their course
was altered to the north-east, and after touching Lake
Nyassa again, they entered regions devastated by the
slave-trade. Following the great slave-route over fine
hill country, where the bracing air revived the English-
men and prostrated their companions, the}' had to turn
])ack on September 30th, when only ten days' march
from an unexplored lake called Bemba.' The temptation
to go on Avas great, but Livingstone knew that there
would be no more wages for his men after December,
so reluctantly turned back.

They reached the ships on November 1st, having
marched seven hundred and sixty miles in iifty-five
travelling days, an average of twelve miles a day.

The flood did not come for nearly two months, but
what tried Livingstone far more than the delay Avas a
letter from the new Bishop, Tozer, informing him that
the Mission was to be withdrawn to Zanzibar. " I hope,
dear Bishop," he wrote, "yon will not deem me imperti-
nent in writing to you with a sore heart. If you go,
the best hopes for this wretched down-trodden people
disappears, and I again entreat you from the; bottom of
my heart to reconsider the matter." The Bisho]), however,
persisted. Livingstone felt this far more than his own
recall - " could hardly write of it " — '' felt more inclined

' Tlic reader will see that Livingstone subsequently discovereil
this lake, which is llangweolo : his heart lies buried at Ilala, on its
soutiierii shore.

1863-64 VOYAGE TO BOMBAY 113

to sit down and cry.'"' All he could do was to arrange
that some thirty children who seemed likely to be
abandoned should be sent to the Cape. He took
them dovn\ to the coast in the Pioneer, from whence,
under Mr. Waller's care, they were forwarded to the
Cape.

On February 13th they reached the coast, and the
Pioneer -wo.?, handed over to the captain of H.M.S. Orestes.
The Ariel, her consort, took the Lady Nyassa in tow for
Mozambique. Captain Chapman offered Livingstone a
berth on the Ariel, but he chose to remain in the Ladij
Nyassa, with the three English sailors and the native
crew. On the 15th they were caught in a hurricane
which drove the Ariel back straight on the Lady Nyassa,
Avhile the tOAving hawser got round her screw and
stopped it. ""We on the little vessel saw no chance of
escape, but she glided past our bow, and we breathed
freely again. We had now an opportunity of witnessing
man-of-Avar seamanship. Captain Chapman, though his
engines Avere disabled, did not think of abandoning us
in the heavy gale, but crossed the bows of the Lady
Nyassa again and again, dropping a cask with a line to
give us another hawser. We might never have picked
it up had not a Krooman jumped overboard and fastened
a second line to the cask. Wc passed a terrible night,
but the Lady Nyassa did wonderfully well, rising like a
little duck over the foaming waves. Captain Chapman
and his officers pronounced her the finest little sea-boat
they had ever seen."

What was to be done now 1 The Lady Nyassa must be
sold. The Portuguese Avished to buy her, but this Living-
stone would not hear of, as she would have been used

I

114

DA VI D LIVINGSTONE

as a slaver. The nearest possible market was Bomba}'',
twenty-five hundred miles off across the Indian Ocean.
He had been captain and pilot on the Zambesi and
Shire for years, why not on the open sea ? Accordingly
on April 30th he started for Bombay with fourteen tons
of coal on board, himself for captain and pilot, the three
English sailors, seven native men, and two boys, who
proved themselves capital sailors though they had never
seen the sea till now.

It was an exploit worthy of the man. Spite of
squalls and calms, for they were obliged to keep most
of their coal for the Indian coast, he ran into the
harbour of Bombay on June 13th, 1864. "The vessel
was so small that no one noticed our arrival."

After rewarding and providing for his crew he started
for P^ngland, and arrived at Charing Cross Station on
July 21st.

CHAPTEE XI

SECOND VISIT HOME

1864-65

On the afternoon of July 21st, 1864, Livingstone reached
the Tavistock Hotel, Covent Garden, and after a hasty
dinner walked down to call on Sir R. Murchison. It was
the last year of Lord Palmerston's last administration,
and the evening of one of the remarkable weekly gather-
ings in Piccadilly, which made his Government so strong
socially, and did so much to rally to him every notable
Englishman outside of politics. " Sir Eoderick," the
Journal notes, "took me off with him, just as I was, to
Lady Palmerston's reception. My lady very gracious.
Gave me tea herself. Lord Palmerston looking very well.
Had two conversations with him about the slave-trade.
Sir Roderick says he is more intent on maintaining his
policy on that than on any other thing. And so is she.
A Avonderfully fine matronly lady." He found all Lon-
don again at his feet, bought a dress suit, and stayed for
a week, finding Lord Russell at the Foreign Office cold,
and Mr Layard "warm and frank."

On August 1st he was with his mother and children
at Hamilton, all but his eldest, Robert, a boy of eighteen,
with a "deal of the vagabond nature of his father in him."

ii6 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xi

He had got out to Natal in the hope of reaching his
father, but, failing in that, had crossed to America and
enlisted in the Federal army. After seeing some hard
service he was taken prisoner, badly wounded, and, dying
in hospital, was buried in the National Cemetery at
Gettysberg, opened by President Lincoln with the speech
which rivals Pericles's funeral oration. " Heard the sad
news that Robert is in the American army," the Journal
notes at this time.

After a visit to the Duke of Argyll at Inverary— " the
most delightful I ever paid " — and a day in Ulva, where
he found the home his grandfather lived in — " Uahm, or
the Cave, a sheltered spot with basaltic rocks jutting out of
the ground below the cave; the Avails of the house remain,
and the corn and potato patches are green, but no one
lives there," — he came south to visit his old African
comrade, Mr. Webb, the great hunter, at Newstead
Abbey. Here, with his daughter Agnes, he remained
for eight months. At first he refused his host's pro-
posal that he should occupy the Sussex tower in the
Abbey, as he must get to work on his book. Where
could he work at it l^etter, Mr. and Mrs. Webb urged, and
prevailed. So there he stayed till it was finished, in " the
Livingstone room," his host and hostess, with his daughter
Agnes, helping to copy. On April 15th, 1865, he
called Agnes to write the " Finis " at the end of the MS.,
and on the 25th left Newstead. " Parted with our good
friends, the Webbs. And may God bless and reward
them and their family," runs the Journal.

He could now turn to his plans for the future, and
did so with his usual single-mindedness. He had given
a lecture to the IJiitisli Association at Batli in the

1864-65 HIS WELCOME IN ENGLAND 117

autumn of 1864, in which he had thrown down the
gauntlet to the Portuguese. It had been taken uji by a
Senhor Lacerda, in the official journal of Portugal, in a
series of articles republished in England by the Portu-
guese Government. Livingstone's object, it urged, under
the pretext of spreading the Word of God and the
advancement of geography and natural science, Avas really
to cause the loss of the commerce of the interior to the
Portuguese, and in the end that of their provinces. " It
was obvious," the official writer summed up, "from what
he declared as his own intentions, that such men ought to
be efficiently watched, and their audacious and mischiev-
ous actions restrained." His new book, Livingstone well
knew, would rouse even deeper hostility, and his future
work must be outside Portuguese territory.

Sir Koderick, on behalf of the Geographical Society,
was anxious that he should go out purely as an explorer,
to settle finally the question of the watersheds of South
Africa, beginning at the Eovuma, and so getting to Lake
Tanganyika. If he could then get to the west and come
out on that coast, or could reach the White Nile to the
north, he " would bring back an unrivalled reputation,
and have settled all the disputes now pending." "An-
swered Sir Roderick about going out," the Journal notes.
" Said I could only feel in the Avay of duty by Avorking
as a missionary." Then came an informal message from
Lord Palmerston, to inquire what the Government could
do for him. " Free access to the highlands beyond by
the Zambesi and Shire, secured by treaty with Portugal,"
was his answer. The Premier had made the inquiry
with a view to j)ropose a pension.

In May, while his preparations were going on, he was

ii8 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xi

before a Committee of the House of Commons on the
West Coast of Africa, where he protested vigorously
against Britain's "monstrous mistake as to missionaries."
" I told the Committee," he wrote to Webb, " that I
had heard people say that Christianity made the blacks
worse, but did not agree with them. I might have said
it was ' rot ; ' and truly I can stand a good deal of bosh,
but to tell me that Christianity makes people worse —
Ugh ! Tell that to the young trouts. You know on
what side I am, and I shall stand to my side, old Pam
fashion, through thick and thin. I don't agree with all
my side say and do. I won't justify many things, but
for the great cause of human progress I am heart and
soul, and so are you."

In June he got a telegram announcing his mother's
death. He had only left her a few days, and was at
Oxford lecturing. He hurried back to the funeral.
"In 1858 she said to me she would like one of her
laddies to lay her head in the grave. It so happened
I was there to pay the last tribute to a dear good mother."

A few days later he was persuaded with difficulty to
go to the examination of the school where his son Oswell
was. He had to speak to the boys, and his last
words to them — indeed the last words he ever spoke
in Scotland publicly — were, "Fear God, and work
hard."

His arrangements with the Government and the
Geographical Society were finished early in August.
Each of them gave him £500, to which a private friend
added £1000. He was continued as Consul, but without
salary. Shabby terms enough, as he knew well himself,
for £2000 wuuld be; (luite insufficient to pay his necessary

1S64-65 SECOND VISIT HOME 119

expenses. But he was too proud to remonstrate, and
meant to provide the deficiency by selling the Lady
Nyassa at Bombay.

On August 11th he took leave at the Foreign
Office ; on the next day dined at AVimbledon with Mr.
Murray, his publisher; and started on the 15th to
place his daughter Agnes at a school in France. " Mr.
and Mrs. Oswell came up to say farewell," the Journal
records. " He offers to go over to Paris at an 3^ time to
bring Agnes home, or do anything that a father would.
Dr. Kirk and Mr. Waller go do^vn to Folkstone to take
leave of us there. This is very kind. The Lord puts it
into their hearts to show kindness, and blessed be His
Name."

He left Agnes at her school in Paris, and embarked
at Marseilles for Bombay on August 19th, reaching it
on September 11th.

CHAPTER XII

LAKES MOERO, BANGWEOLU, AND TANGANYIKA

1865-71

Livingstone readied BomT)ay in September, 1865, Av^as
cordially welcomed, and became the guest of Sir Bartle
Frere, the Governor. He had come to sell the Lady
Nyassa and prepare for his African campaign. He had
to accept £2600 for his steamer, less than half she had
cost him, and lost the whole by the failure of the Indian
Bank in which he deposited it. "The Avhole of the
money she cost was dedicated to the great cause for which
she was built — we are not responsible for results," Avas
his comment. He explored the caA'^es at Salsette, in a
party under the guidance of Mr. A. BroAvn, who Avrote :
"Livingstone's almost boyish enjoyment of the Avholc
thing impressed me greatly." He lectured at Poona
and Bombay, and roused a deep interest in missionary
Avork, though slightly scandalising his clerical brethren
by his costume. " He dressed more like a post captain
or admiral," one of them wrote. And again : " At the
communion on Sunday (he sat on Dr. Wilson's right hand)
he Avore a blue surtout Avith Government gilt buttons,
slieplicrd tartan trousers, and a gold band round his cap."
By Sir Bartle Frere's adA^icc he visited Nassick, the

1S65-71 ^^HE ROVUMA

Government school for Africans, from which he got
nine vokmteers. He also accepted a draft of sepoys
from the Marine Battalion. With these he sailed for
Zanzibar in January, 1866, in the Tlmle, a steamer
which he was to present to the Sultan, with a letter
from Sir Bartle Frere, as a pleasure-yacht. "For a
pleasure-yacht she is the most incorrigible roller ever
known. The whole 2000 miles has been an everlast-
ing see-saw, shuggy-shoo, enough to tire a chemist, —
the most patient of all animals," he wrote from Zanzibar,
where he had to wait for two months for H.M.S. Feiiguin,
which was to take him to the Eovuma. The Sultan was
cordial during his stay, and gave him a firman to all his
subjects trading in the interior, a well-meant sanction,
which in the end, however, worked more harm than good.
The Penguin came at last to pick him up, and landed him
and his company on the Eovuma towards the end of March.
They consisted of thirteen sepoys, ten Johanna men,
nine Nassick boys, and two Shupanga and two AVaiyau
men, of whom Susi had been a wood-cutter on the
Pioneer, and Chumah one of the slaves rescued in 1861.
It was well that these two were amongst them, as the
rest proved quite unfit for the work. He had no Eng-
lishman with him, but started for the long tramp in
high spirits. " The mere animal pleasure of travelling in
a wild unexplored country is very great . . . the body
soon becomes well knit, the muscles grow as hard as
board ; the limbs seem to have no fat, and there is no
dyspepsia." So the Journal runs ; and he is also full of
interest as to how the camels, tame buffaloes, mules,
and donkeys, which he had brought from India at a
large cost, would resist the tsetse fly and stand the

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

African climate. The poodle Chitanpe completes his
live stock, a most engaging beast, thoroughly alive to
the importance of the expedition and his own duty,
running up and down the line of march and chasing
away the pariah dogs who dared to approach, and
keeping his master's tent jealously at night. Poor
faithful Chitanpe, after the African sun had burnt his
coat a brown red, was drowned in crossing an over-
flowed river in the following January, 1867 — after a
mile's wading his master inquired for him and he
was gone. He swam as long as he could, and then
the men "supposed he must have just sunk." No small
addition to Livingstone's trials, which were thick enough
by that time. The sepoys proved complete failures, sulky,
and brutal to the animals, and only able to march five
miles a day. The Johanna men were little better, and
thieves — even the Nassick boys were troublesome. With
such a band the march dragged heavily on, till in July,
in disgust at their laziness and cruelty to the animals, he
sent the sepoys back to the coast. They had now reached
a splendid district, three thousand four hundred and forty
feet above the sea, and the watershed from which the
Eovuma ran down to the coast, and the smaller streams
westward to Lake Nyassa, As good a site for a settle-
ment this plateau, Livingstone thought, as Magomero, but
nearly depopulated by the slave-trade. He descended
westward, reaching Lake Nyassa on August 8th, and
bathing in its bright waters felt again "quite exhilarated."
" All the Arabs fly me," he notes ; and being thus unable
to cross the lake, as they owned all the boats, he marched
round the southern end. Here, about the out-flow of the
Shire, he found matters rather worse than he had left

1865-71 YOUN(?S SEARCH- EXPEDITION 123

them two years before, and remonstrated with some of
the chiefs on the reckless inter-tribal raids, fostered by
the Arabs, which were ruining their country.

Now, in September, the Johanna men, headed by
Musa, an old sailor on the Lady Nyassa, scared by the
Arabs' lying account of the dangers ahead, deserted and
returned to Zanzibar. There they spread a circum-
stantial story of Livingstone's death, which was credited
and forwarded to England. Young and Horace Waller,
who had known Musa for a liar on the Shire, refused to
believe, and were supported by Sir R Murchison. At
his instance the Geographical Society sent out a search-
expedition under Young. In eight months Young re-
turned from the Shire and Lake Nyassa with the news
that the Doctor had passed on toward the north-west.
Young had in that short time carried the Search in pieces
past the Murchison Cataracts and launched her on Lake
Nyassa, by the splendid help of the Makololo whom
Livingstone had planted on the Shire banks, and who
were now masters in the district.

Meantime Livingstone was forcing his way on slowly
far beyond to the north-west. The country proved miser-
ably poor, with baleful traces of the Arabs everywhere.
The villages were depopulated and the j^eople starving.
He had now to hire carriers, having so few men left,
and characteristically allowed them to overcharge him,
noting in his Journal, " Is not this what is meant by
* Blessed is he that considereth the poor and needy ' 1
These poor have much good in them." As he pushed
on indomitably towards Lake Tanganyika he was reduced
to a diet of African maize with goat's milk. For some
days in December he was too ill to march. On Christ-

124 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

mas Day his goats were stolen, and he had no more milk
— liis one luxury. " Took my belt up three holes to
relieve hunger," is the note in the Joui-nal. But worse
was in store in the early new year. Jamuiry \Uh. —
" Poor poodle Chitanpe drowned. We had to cross a
marsh a mile wide and waist-deep. I went over first,
and forgot to give directions about the dog. All were
too much engaged in keeping their balance to notice that
he swam among them till he died." On January 20th,
1867, his medicine-chest was stolen. "Felt as if I had
received my death sentence." Fehnuiry \st. — " We
got a cow yesterday. I am to get milk to-morrow."
February \lth. — "Too ill with rheumatic fever to have
service. The first attack I have ever had with no
medicine. The Lord healeth His people." March
lOth. — " III of fever still. Can scarcely keep up, though
formerly always first in the line. I have singing in my
ears, and can scarcely hear the tick of the chronometers."
In April he reached the shores of Lake Liemba, which
proved to be the southern end of Lake Tanganyika ; the
country was lovely and peaceful, but, hearing of war in
front, he turned south. His object was to reach Lake
Moero, which he heard of in this district, and which might
prove the solution of his doubts as to the watershed of
the Nile and Congo. In June he came on'the Ubungu,
"a tribe of gentlemen, universally polite, governed
they arc and very Avell," but how exactly he could not
satisfy himself : certainly not by fear. In August came
three months' delay through illness and helplessness.
At last, in November, an Aral), Mohamed Mogharib,
arrived, a slave-trader, but a favourable s])ecimen of the
class, who acknowledged the Sultan's finiuiu and oftered

1865-71 LAKES MOERO AND BANGWEOLO 125

escort, which Livingstone accepted. Mohamed's first gift
was a meal of vermicelli, oil, and honey. " I had not
tasted sugar and honey for two years," the Journal notes.
On November 8th, 1867, they reached Lake Moero.

Here he spent some months exploring, when not too ill,
and found Lake Moero forty miles wide. To the south,
however, he hears of another lake, Bangweolo, even larger.
This must be explored. In vain Mohamed Bogharib
remonstrated, and his men, all but five, refused to go on
with him. Though without letters for two years, and
longing to turn northward to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika,
where he might get letters and supplies, he Avill still go
forward. And so he trudges on, in constant pain and
trouble, to the south. On June 2.5th, 1 868, he comes across
a solitary grave in a forest clearing, over which he muses :
" I have nothing to do but to wait till He who is over
all decides where I have to lay me down and die. Poor
Mary lies onShupanga brae, 'and beeks forenent the sun.'"
On July 18th he was rewarded for his toil by the sight
of Lake Bangweolo, "a splendid piece of water." August
22th. — " Thanks for what I have discovered. There is still
much to do, and if life and protection be granted, I shall
make a complete thing of it." So the old hero writes,
and starts again on his northern tramp to make as com-
plete a thing of it as he can. Again he falls in with the
Arab traders, and marches with them painfully, sore in
soul as well as body.

In the neighbourhood of Lake Moero they reach the
town of Casembe, a powerful and friendly chief, who was
threatened by a marauding army of Mazitu from the south.
The Arabs sided with the invaders, and were driven
north, Livingstone following Avith his five faithful men.

126 DA VI D LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

In November they once more come across Moharaed
Bogharib, on his way to Ujiji, Livingstone's runaways with
him. They express penitence and he takes them back,
with the remark, " I have faults myself." In the last
days of November Mohamed's caravan was attacked by
hostile natives. Livingstone sat at his tent-door armed,
to defend his baggage if necessary, and noting the
courage of the attacking party. "V. C. men truly
many of them," he writes, as he sees them rush to carry
off their wounded under heavy fire. New Year's Day,
1869, finds him still on his way to Ujiji, too ill to
march, and carried in a rude litter. In February he
reaches the western shore of Lake Tanganyika, and
crosses to Ujiji on the 14th, to find it a den of thieves,
all his supplies plundered, and only two old letters.
He had still medicines and stores at Unyanyembe,
thirteen days' distance, but cannot send for them as
war is raging. So, Avriting for fresh supplies to Dr. Kirk
at Zanzibar, he once more turned northwards to the
Manyuema country. His object Avas to track down the
Lualaba, if possible to a point Avhich Avould decide
whether it is the western arm of the Nile or the eastern
head-water of the Congo. In July he is again well
enough to start, and reaches Bambarre, the capital of
the Manyuema country, on October 25th. -

"In this journey," the Journal now sums up, "I have
endeavoured to folloAV Avith unsAA^erving fidelity the line
of duty. My course has been an even one, sAverving
neither to the right nor left, though my route has been
tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil
Avere met Avith the full conA'iction tliat I Avas right in
persevering to make a comjjlete Avork of the cx})loration

1865-71 BAMBARRE 127

of the sources of the Nile. I had a strong presentiment
during the first three years that I should not live through
the enterprise ; but it weakened as I came near to the
end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any
evidence of the great Moses having visited these parts
bound me — spell-bound me, I may say. I have to go
doAvn the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake Eiver, then
up the Western or Young's Lake Eiver to Katanga head-
waters, and then retire — I pray that it may be to my
native home. ... I received information of Mr. Young's
search trip up the Shire and Nyassa only in February
1870, and now take the first opportunity of offering
hearty thanks in a despatch to H.M. Government and
all concerned in kindly inquiring as to my fate."

At Bambarre he is delayed, waiting for men, for
more than three months, noting in his enforced leisure
the habits of birds and beasts, and manners and customs
of the people, with all particulars he can learn as to the
products and geography of the country. Here again
the baleful influence of the Arab traders and their open
raids for slaves were daily before him. " The strangest
disease I have seen in this country," he Avrites, "seems
really to be broken-heartedness, as it attacks only the free
who are captured, and never slaves ; it seems to be really
broken-heartedness of which they die. Even children
who showed wonderful endurance in keeping up with
the chained gangs would sometimes hear ' the sound of
dancing and the merry tinkle of drums in passing near
a village:' then the memory of home and happy days
proved too much for them, they cried and sobbed, the
broken heart came on, and they rapidly sank."

At last, on January 28th, 1871, a large caravan under

128 DAVID LIVINGSTONE cuap. xii

Hassani and Abed, two Arabs he had known at Ujiji,
arrived, and on February Ith his ten men, who, how-
ever, brought only one letter, forty being lost. This
first experience Avas ominous. They refused to go north,
and on the 11th struck for higher wages. "The ten
men," the Journal runs, "are all slaves of the Banians,
who are British subjects, and they come with a lie in
their mouth. They will not help me, and swear the
Consul told them not to go forward, but to force me
back. They swore so positively that I actually looked
again at Dr. Kirk's letter to see if his orders had been
rightly understood by me. But for fear of pistol shot
they Avould gain their own and their Banian masters'
end — to baffle me completely. They demand an advance
of $1 or $6 a month, though this is doul)le freemen's
pay at Zanzibar."

However, he had them in order enough by February
16th to justify a start. And now his old men — the
deserters — who had been hanging round the trader's
camp, waked up. "They came after me with inimitable
effrontery, believing that though I said I would not take
them, they were so valuable I was only saying what I
knew to be false." He would not take a man back this
time, though probably he would have been better served
had he done so.

On February 25th they came on the Lualaba flowing
west-south-west, causing him to write, " I have to sus-
pend my judgment, so as to find it after all i)erhaps the
Congo." As indeed it has proved to be, though he did
not live to know it.

''■ Mnrch l.s7. — The Arabs ask me to take seven of
their people who know the new way, going to buy

1865-71 RURAL AFRICA 129

biramV)a." To this he consented, and advanced through
a lovely country with frequent villages " standing on
slopes," and as yet having no direct experience of the
Arabs or the slave trade. " I hear the Manyuema telling
each other that I am 'the Good One.' I have no slaves,
and I owe the good name to the report of the Zanzibar
slaves, who are anything but good themselves. I have
seen slaves of these seven Arabs slap the cheeks of grown
men who offered food for sale. It was done in sheer
wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I saw it
again."

" March 5th. — We came to some villages amongst
beautiful tree-covered hills called Basilange, or Mobasi-
lange. They are very pretty standing on slopes. The
main street lies generally east and west, to allow the
bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to
the other, and lick up quickly the moisture from the
fx'equent showers which is not drawai off by the slopes.
A little verandah is often made in front of the doors,
where the family gathers round a fire, and while enjoy-
ing the heat needed in the cold which always accom-
panies the first darting of the sim's rays across the
atmosphere, inhale the delicious air and talk over their
little domestic affairs. The various-shaped leaves of the
forest all round their village are spangled with myriads
of dewdrops. The cocks crow vigorously, and strut
and ogle ; the kids gambol and leap on their dams
quietly chewing the cud. Other goats make-believe
fighting. Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots
in a fire made by lighting a heap of grass roots : they
extract salt from the ashes, and so two birds are killed
with one stone. The beauty of this peaceful morning

K

I30 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

scene is indescribable. Infancy gilds the fairy picture
with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten,
for the young, taken up from slavers and treated with
all philanthropic missionary care and kindness, still
revert to the period of infancy as the finest and fairest
they have known. They would go back to freedom and
enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and
be heedless of the charms of hard work and no play,
which we think so much better for them if not for us."

But the oasis is sadly limited. On the next page
comes, " In some cases we find the villages all deserted :
the people had fled at our approach in dread of the
repetition of the outrages of Arab slaves."

The Arabs proved a bad bargain. They knew the
country, but their slaves were committing atrocities
along the line which their masters vainly tried to con-
ceal from him, and which he found himself powerless to
prevent.

" March 2Qth. — Met a party of traders with eighty-two
captives after ten days' fighting. We shall be safe only
when past all this bloodshed and murder. I am heart-
sore and sick of human blood."

" 3farch 28th. — The Banian slaves are again trying
compulsion. It is excessively trying, and so many
difficulties have been put in my way I doubt whether
the Divine favour is on my side."

Plowevcr, on March 29th he reaches NyangM'e, the
chief town of the district, in the midst of a dense
])opulation, and the point where he hoped to cross to
tlie left bank of the Lualaba, which flows ])ast the town.
Here he found Abed and Hassani, two Arab traders,
with a large slave-following. He had met thoni before,

1865-71 NYANGWE 131

and now : " Abed said my words against blood-shedding
had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his
people to give presents to chiefs, but never to fight
unless actually attacked."

" March 3l5^. — I went down to take a good look at
the Lualaba here. It is narrower than it is higher up,
but still a mighty river, at least 3000 yards broad and
always deep. It can never be waded at any point, or at
any time of the year. It has many large islands, and at
these it is about 2000 yards, or one mile. The banks
are steep and dark; there is clay and a yellow-clay
schist in their structure. The current is about two miles
an hour."

''April Srd. — The river is said to overflow all its
banks annually, as the Nile does farther down. I
sounded across yesterday, and near the bank it is 9
feet, the rest 1.5 feet, and one cast in the middle
Avas 20 feet, between the islands 12 feet, and 9
again inshore. It is a mighty river truly. ... I
tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight on the key
of the watch, and so helping it on. I will try this in a
quiet place to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they
have good reason."

He began at once to frequent the market as the best
way of inspiring confidence. On the first occasion he
notes : " To-day the market contained over 1000 people,
carrying earthen pots and cassava grass cloth, fishes and
fowls ; they were alarmed at my coming among them,
and were ready to fly ; many stood afar off in suspicion."
The various phases of his long struggle with his slaves
and their Arab abettors, of his attempts to win the con-
fidence of the Manyuema, to get canoes and so finish his

132 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

work, can only be indicated b)' a few extracts from the
Journals.

"April 8fk. — The Ujijian slavery is an accursed
system ; but it must be admitted that the Manyuema too
have faults, the result of ignorance of other people ; their
isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in
dealing ^nth the cruel stranger as little dogs in the
presence of lions."

" Ajjril I8th. — Chitoka, or market to-day. I counted
upwards of 700 passing my door. With market-women
it seems to be a pleasure of life to haggle and joke, or
laugh and cheat. Many come eagerlj^, and retire with
careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old."

"April I2th. — My new house is finished; a great
comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin."

"April I6th. — Kahembe (a chief from left bank)
came over and promises to bring a canoe. They all
think that my buying a canoe means carrying Avar to
the left bank, and now my Banian slaves encourage the
idea. ' He does not wish slaves or ivory,' they say,
' but a canoe in order to kill Manyuema.' Need it be
wondered at, that people who had never seen a white
man till I popped down among them believe the slander 1"

"April I9th. — Weary waiting, but Abed promises to
join and trade along with me. This 'will render our
[)arty stronger, and he will not shoot people in my
company."

" May Zrd. — This tribe use large and very long spears
very expertly in the long grass and forest of their
country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, and
when the}' become acc|uainted with firearms Avill be
terrible to the stranii;ers who now murder them. The

1865-71 NYANGWE MARKET 133

Manyuema say truly, ' If it were not for your guns, not
one of you would ever return to your country.' My
slaves have mutinied three times here."

"ilfrty 16/A. — At least 3000 people at market to-day,
and my going among them has taken away the fear en-
gendered by the slanders of slaves and traders, for all
are pleased to tell me the names of fishes and other
things.

"It was pleasant to be among them compared to
being with the slaves, who are all eager to go back to
Zanzibar. I see no hope of getting on with them.
Abed heard them plotting my destruction. ' If forced
to go on they would watch till the first difficulty arose
with the Manyuema, then fire off their guns, run away,
and as I could not run as fast as they, leave me to
perish.' Abed overheard them talking loudly, and
advised me strongly not to trust myself to them any
more, as they would be sure to cause my death. He has
all along been my sincere friend."

"il/ay 18^^. — I was on the point of disarming my
slaves and driving them away when they relented, and
professed to be willing to go anywhere ; so, being eager
to finish my geographical work, I said I would run the
risk of their desertion. I cannot state how much I was
worried by these wretched slaves, who did much to
annoy me with the sympathy of all the slavery crew."

'■^ June XWh. — 'Hassani' (the most bigoted of the
Moslem traders) got nine canoes and put sixty -five persons
in three. I cannot get one."

XoAv he hears news Avhich he hopes will .solve his
difficulties.

" 20^/i. — Dugumbe arrives with large party. Amoni^

134 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

the first words Dugiimbc said to me were, ' Why, your
own slaves are your greatest enemies ! I will buy you a
canoe, but the Banian slaves' slanders have i)ut all them
against you.' I knew that this was true, and that they
are conscious of having the sympathy of the Ujijian
traders, who hate to have me here."

This Dugumbe was the best of the Arab traders, and
an old acquaintance.

" July 5th.— I offer Dugumbe $2000, or £400, for ten
men to replace my Banian slaves, and enable me to go
up the Lomame to Katanga and the underground
dwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to
Ujiji ; and I added I would give all the goods I had at
Ujiji besides. He took a few days to consult his
associates."

" 7th. — I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating
a slave near my house, but on my reproving her she
came and apologised. I told her to speak softly to her
slave, as she was now the only mother the girl had.
The slave came from beyond Lomame, and was evidently
a lady in her own country."

His o2)inion of the Manyuema as the finest tril)e he
had met with after the Makololo, grew with acquaintance.
He notes :

" Many of the men have as finely-formed heads as
could be found in London. We English, if naked,
would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms
and finely-shaped limbs of the Manyuema men and
women. Their cannibalism is doubtful, but my obser-
vations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury would say
'Not i>roven.' The women are not guilty.

" The Manyuema are untruthful, but very honest.

1S65-71 THE MASSACRE 135

We never lose an article by them. Fowls and goats are
untouched, and if we lose a fowl we know that it has
been stolen by an Arab slave."

'■'■July ISfh. — The Banian slaves declared before
Dugumbe that they would go to the river Lomame,
but no farther. He spoke long to them, but they will
not consent to go farther. When told they would
thereby lose all their pay, they replied, ' Yes, but not
our lives,' and walked off muttering, which is insulting to
one of his rank. I then said, ' I have goods at Ujiji ;
take them all, and give me men to finish my work ; if
not enough I will add to them, but do not let me be
forced to return, now I am so near the end of my
undertaking.' He said he would make a plan in con-
junction with his associates, and report to me."

The final crisis and end of the long struggle came at
last. On July 14th the only entry is, " I am distressed
and perplexed what to do so as not to be foiled, but all
seems against me." For Dugumbe's men had quarrelled
with the other Arabs and their leaders Tagamoio and
Manilla, who had been before them on the left bank.
To this they had crossed, though Livingstone could get
no canoes, and by way of pimishing their rivals were
now harrying the villages near the river.

"/?//// I5fh. — The I'eports of guns on the other side
of the Lualaba all the morning tell of the people of
Dugumbe murdering those who had mixed blood " (the
Manyuema way of making a treaty) " with Manilla. . . .
About 1500 people came to market, though many villages
of those who usually come to market were now in
flames. It was a hot sultry day, and when I went into
the market I saw three of the men who had lately come

136 DAVID LIVINGSTONE

with Dugumbe. I was surprised to see these three with
their guns, and felt incHned to reprove them for bringing
weapons into the market, but I attributed it to their
ignorance, and being very hot, I was walking awaj' to
go out of the market when I saw one of the fellows
haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before 1
had got thirty yaids out, the discharge of two guns in
the middle of the crowd told me that slaughter had
begun ; crowds dashed off from the place, threw down
their Avares in confusion, and ran. At the same time
that the three opened fire on the mass of people at the
upper end of the market-place, volleys were discharged
on the panic-stricken women Avho dashed at the canoes.
These, some fifty or more, were jammed in the creek,
and the men forgot their paddles in the terror that
seized all. The canoqs could not be got out, for the
creek was too small for so many ; men and women
wounded by the balls poured into them, and leaped and
scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long line of
heads in the river showed that great numbers struck
out for an island a full mile off; in going towards it
they had to put the left shoulder to a current of about
two miles an hour ; if they had struck away diagonally
to the opposite bank the current would have aided
them, and, though nearly three miles off, some would
have reached land; as it was, the heads above water
showed the long line of those who would inevitably
perish. Shot after shot continued to be fired on the
helpless and perishing. Some of the long line of heads
disap})eared quietly, whilst other poor creatures threw
their arms on high, as if appealing to the great Fatlier
above, and saidi. By and by all the heads disappeared :

1865-71 THE MASSACRE 137

some had turned down stream towards the bank and
escaped. Dugumbe put people into one of the deserted
boats to save those in the water, and saved twenty-
one. . . . The Arabs themselves estimated the loss of
life at between 330 and 400 souls. The shooting party
near the canoes were so reckless that they killed two of
their own people. . . , My first impulse was to pistol
the murderers, but Dugumbe protested against my
getting into a blood feud, and I was thankful after-
wards that I took his advice. , . . After the terrible
affair in the water the party of Tagamoio, the chief
perpetrator, continued to fire on the people on the
other side, and to burn their villages. As I write I
hear the wails on the left bank over those who are
there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the
depths of the Lualalja. Oh, let Thy kingdom come !
No one will ever know the exact loss on this bright
sultry suunner morning ; it gave me the impression of
being in hell. . . . Some escaped to me, and were jjro-
tected. I sent men with our flag to save some. . . .
Who could accompany the people of Dugumbe and
Tagamoio to Lomame and be free from blood-guiltiness %
... I proposed to Dugumbe to catch the . murderers,
and hang them up in the market-place, as our protest
against these bloody deeds before the Manyuema. If, as
he and others added, it was committed by Manilla's people,
he would have consented, but it w^as done by Tagamoio's
people, and others of this party headed by Dugumbe.
This slaughter was 2)eculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we
have heard that women coming to or from market have
never been known to be molested, even when two districts
are at \\ar. . . . Twenty-seven villages were destroyed."

138 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xn

" Jnlij I6ih. — I restored upwards of thirty of the
rescued to their friends. Dugumbe seemed to act in
good faith. . . . Manj'^ of the head-men who have been
burned out by the foray came over to me, and begged
me to come back with them, and appoint new localities
for them to settle in, but I told them I was so ashamed
of the company in Avhich I found myself that I could
scarcely look a Manyuema in the face. They had
believed I wished to kill them. What did they think
now*? I could not remain among bloody companions,
and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard
to stay until they were again settled. . . . Dugumbe
saw that by killing the market-people he had committed
a great error. I could not remain to see to their pro-
tection, and Dugumbe being the best of the whole
horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal
to him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous
underlings. . . . I see nothing for it but to go back to
Ujiji for other men. I wished to speak to Tagamoio
about the captive relations of the chiefs, but he always
ran away when he saw me coming."

"July 17 th. — All the rest of Dugumbe's i)arty offered
me a share of every kind of goods they had. I declined
everything save a little gunpowder. ... It is a sore
affliction, at least forty-five days in a straight line, equal
to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings 600 miles
English, and all after feeding and clothing those Banian
slaves for twenty -six months ! But it is for the best
though ; if I do not trust to the riff-raff of Ujiji I must
wait for other men at least ten months there."

'■'■July ISth. — The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity
to man brought on severe headache, which might have

IS6S-7I RETURN TO UJIJI 139

been serious had it not been relieved by a copious dis-
charge of blood. I was laid up all yesterday afternoon
with the depression the bloodshed made. It filled me
with unspeakable horror. 'Don't go away,' say the
Manyuema chiefs to me ; but I can't stay here in agony."

'■'■ July \Wi. — Dugumbe sent me a line goat, a manch
of gunpowder, a manch of fine blue beads, and 230
cowries to buy provisions on the way. ... A few
market- people appear to-daj' ; formerly they came in
crowds, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost
relatives, one very beautiful woman with a gun-shot
wound in her upper arm tied round with leaves. Seven
canoes came instead of fifty ; but they have great tenacity
and hopefulness ; an old-established custom has much
charms for them, and the market will again be attended
if no new outrage is committed."

Next day he started on the weary return joiirney
to Ujiji. "I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbe's
people came to say good-bye, and convey me a little
way. I made a short march, for being long inactive it
is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it is then
difficult to get over the effects." Ophthalmia was now
added to his other ailments, and this march back proved
the most miserable of all his travels. The country was
up, and twice he fell into an ambush, escaping he hardly
knew how. " I became weary with the constant strain
of danger, and — as I suppose happens with soldiers on
the field of battle — not courageous, but perfectly in-
different whether I wei'e killed or not."

'■^ October 23rd. — At dawn off, and go to Ujiji. Wel-
comed by all the Arabs. I was now reduced to a
skeleton, l)ut the market being held daily, and all kinds

I40 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xii

of goods l)rought to it, I hoped thut food and rest would
soon restore me ; but in the evening my people came
and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods. He
liad not left a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a
string of beads out of 700 lbs. This was distressing. I
had made up my mind, if I could not get people at Ujiji,
to wait till men should come from the coast, but to wait
in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now
felt miserable."

" October 2Uh. — I felt in my destitution as if I were
the man who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho and
fell among thieves ; but I could not hope for Priest,
Levite, or Good Samaritan to come by on either side ;
but one morning Sayd bin Majid, a good man, said to
me, ' Now this is the first time we have been alone
together. I have no goods, but I have ivory ; let me, I
pray you, sell some of the ivory and give the goods to
you.' This was encouraging, but 1 said, 'Not yet, but
by and by.' I had still a few barter goods left, which I
had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamed ben
Salili before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in
extreme need. But when my spirits were at their
lowest ebb the Good Samaritan was close at hand, for
one morning (October 20th) Susi came running at the
top of his speed, and gasped out, ' An Englishman ! I see
him!' and off he darted to meet him. The American
flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles,
cooking pots, tents, etc., made me think this nuist be a
luxurious travellei', and not one at his wit's cntl like me.
It was Henry Morland Stanley, the travelling corre-
spondent of the New York Herald, sent ])y James Gordon

1865-71 Stanley's ARRIVAL 141

Bennett at an expense of more than £4000 to obtain
accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if living, and
if dead to bring home my bones. ... I really do feel
extremely grateful, and at the same time am a little
ashamed at not being more worthy of the generosity.
Mr. Stanley has done his work with untiring energy ;
good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles.
His helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who by
their excesses at Zanzibar and elsewhere had ruined
their constitutions and prepared their systems to be fit
provender for the grave."

Livingstone stood outside his house and lifted his
cap \Aath the gold band to the newcomer when Susi
led him up in triumph, and they went in together to
the hut.

CHAPTER XIII

STANLEY

1871

The letter-bag marked November 1st, 1870, which had
been lyingat Unyanyembe in charge of Kaif-Haiek ("How
do you do ?"), a servant of Livingstone Avhom Stanley had
brought up with him, lay across the Doctor's knees when
they sat down in the hut. He opened it, read one or
two of his children's letters, and then asked for the news.

"No, Doctor; read your letters first."

" Ah, I have waited years for letters, and have been
taught patience. I can wait a few hours longer. Tell
me the news. How is the world getting on V

" The news he had to tell," Livingstone writes, " to
one who had been two full years without any tidings
from Europe, made my whole frame thrill. The terrible
fate that had befallen France ; the telegraphic cables
successfullj^ laid in the Atlantic ; the election of General
Grant ; the death of good Lord Clarendon, my constant
friend ; the proof that H.M.'s Government had not for-
gotten me in voting £1000 for supplies, and many
other points of interest, revived emotions that had
lain dormant in Manyuema."

This flood of news was poured out on the Doctor by

1 87 1 STANLEY 143

his companion as they sat at their first meal together.
Tlie Arabs, noting the turn in the tide, sent in their
best dishes — Mohamed ben Salih, a curried chicken ;
Moene Kheri, stewed goat's meat, etc. "Livingstone, who
had been able to take nothing but tea for some days,
ate like a vigorous and healthy man, and as he vied with
me in demolishing the pancakes, kept repeating, ' You
have brought me new life, you have brought me new
life ! ' " Stanley sat opposite, enjoying his well-earned
success, and presently called out : " ' Oh, by George ! I
have forgotten. Selim, bring that bottle and the silver
goblets.' They were brought, and we pledged one another
in Sillery champagne."

That night the Doctor sat up late reading his budget,
but was up before his visitor to greet him in the veran-
dah with, " Good morning, Mr. Stanley. I hope you
rested well. You have brought me good and bad news.
But sit down," making room for me by his side. "Yes,
many of my friends are dead. My eldest son has met
with a bad accident — that is my boy Tom. My second
son, Oswell, is at College studying medicine, and is doing
well, I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been
enjoying herself in a yacht with ' Sir Parafine' Y'oung and
his family. Sir Eoderick is well, and hopes he shall soon
see me. You have brought me quite a budget."

After explaining his mission, and eliciting the Doctor's
thankful acknowledgment that he had come just at the
right time, for " I was beginning to think I should have
to beg from the Arabs," Stanley ordered his servant
Ferajji to bring breakfast, excellent tea, and hot " dam-
pers," served in silver on a Persian carpet. The Doctor
watched admiringly, and, while doing justice to the soft

144 DAVID UVIXGSTONE chap, xiii

cakes — a deliglitful change from the uncooked corn-ears
which he had been living on of late, and which had
loosened all his teeth — remarked, " You have given me an
appetite. Halimah is my cook, but slic never can tell the
difference between tea and cofiee." Halimah was the
wife of one of his four men who had remained faithful.
"Instead of my spare tasteless two meals a day," the
Journal runs, " I ate four times a day, and soon began
to feel strong. I am not a demonstrative man, as cold,
in fact, as we islanders are reputed to be, but the disin-
terested kindness of Mr. Bennett, carried into etlect by
Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming."

The intimacy grew apace, and the strong impul-
sive young correspondent was soon under the spell
of Livingstone's character — "a character," he writes,
" that I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm
and sincerest admiration. He is about sixty years
old, tliough after lie Avas restored to health he looked
like a man who luid not passed his fiftieth year. His
hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there
streaked with gray lines over the temples ; his whiskers
and moustache are very gray. He shaves his chin daily.
His eyes, wliieh are hazel, are remarkablj^ brigh.t ; he
has a sight keen as a hawk. His teeth alone indicate
the weakness of age ; the hard fare has made havoc in
their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish
appearance, is a little over the ordinaiy height, with the
slightest possible stoop in the shoulders. When walk-
ing he takes a fii-m but heavy tread, like that of an over-
worked or fatigued man. He is accustomed to wear a
naval cap, by which he has been identified throughout
Africa. His dress when first I saw him exhibited traces

1 87 1 RECOVERY — NEW PROJECTS 145

of patching and repairing, but was scrupulously neat.
. . . "There is a good-natured rt6rt7u/o7i about him. ^Yhen-
ever he began a laugh, there Avas a contagion about it that
compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as
Herr Teufelsdrockh's — a laugh of the whole man from
head to heel. If he told a story his face was lit up by
the sly fun it contained."

Soon the old traveller was anxious to be up and
away, to finish his task; but he had only four male
followers left, and a few yards of cloth. In recounting
his travels to Stanley he had mentioned that he had never
explored the northern part of Lake Tanganyika. The
choice had lain between this and verifying the central
line of drainage by the Lualaba. This latter he held to
be the more important, and to that he had turned when,
as we know, he pushed on to the west, where he had
followed the great river over seven degrees northward
into the Manyuema country. He had been baffled there
and obliged to turn back; but this was the work he
must go back to, and finish. Is the Lualaba the western
source of the Nile % That was the great question. As for
Tanganyika, he believed it would be found to be connected
with the Albert Nyanza by a river, the Lusize or Rusizi,
flowing out of its northern extremity. This was his
belief, based on the reports of Arabs and a test as to
the flow of the lake which he had made with water-plants,
but he had hardly given it a thought.

" Why not explore the northern end before you leave
UjijiT' Stanley suggested. "I have twenty men who
understand boating, and plenty of guns, cloth, and beads."

"I am ready whenever you are," Livingstone answered.

" No, I am at your command. Don't you hear my
1.

146 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiii

men call you ' the great master ' and me ' the little mas-
ter?' It would never do for the little master to command. "

Stanley's statement that Sir Roderick Avas interested
settled the question finally that they should embark on
" this picnic," as the Doctor insisted on calling it.

Having Ijorrowed a canoe capable of carrying twenty-
five men and stores from Sayd bin Majid, of whom
Livingstone had said, " If ever there was an Arab gentle-
man, he was one," they started for the northern end of
Lake Tanganyika on November 16th, 1871.

They rowed to the extreme north of the lake, and
ascertained that the river Lusize flowed into the lake and
not out of it, as did all the other rivers whose mouths
they passed. Thus the Arab testimony again broke
down. No outlet to the lake could be found ; but the
Doctor retained his firm belief that an outlet must exist,
though he had been unable to find it.

On December 13th they returned to Ujiji, having
made the circuit of the whole of Lake Tanganyika north
of that town. To Livingstone it had been a time of rest
and recruiting, though he had one sharp bilious attack,
while Stanley was twice struck down by severe fever.

The incidents of the voyage were few, but the way in
which they impressed the two travellers, and are severally
recounted by them, illustrates the characters of the two
men, and the hold which the elder was getting on the
younger. The following may serve as specimens.

Livingsto7ie. — "November '20fh. — Passed a very crowded
population, the men calling to us to land and be fleeced
and insulted ; they threw stones, and one, a])parently
slung, lighted close to the canoe. The lake narrows to
about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards

i87i THE PICNIC ON TANGANYIKA 147

the eastern range, that being about N.N.AV. magnetic.
Many stamps of trees killed by -water show an encroach-
ment by the lake on the east side. A transverse range
seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country
to the east and Avest of its ends."

Stanley. — "About half-way between Cape Kisanwe and
Murembeve is a cluster of villages which has a mutare
(head-man), who is in the habit of taking honga (tribute).
They called to us to come ashore, threatening us with
the vengeance of the great Wami if we did not halt.
As the voices were anything but siren-like, we obstinately
refused. Finding threats of no avail, they had recourse
to stones, and flung them at us in a most hearty manner.
As one came within a foot of my arm I suggested that a
bullet should be sent in return in close proximity to their
feet, but Livingstone, though he said nothing, showed
clearly that he did not approve of this."

Livingstone. — " November list. — Landed under a cliff to
rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries, then
a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly. They
told us to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be
made. We put our luggage on board, and set a watch
on the clift'. A number of men came along cowering
behind rocks, and we slipped off Cjuietly ; they called
after us as men baulked of their prey."

Stanley. — " Oiu- kettle was boiling for tea, and the
men had built a little fire for themselves, and had filled
their earthen pot with water for porridge, when our
look-outs perceived dark forms creeping towards our
bivouac. Being hailed, they came forward, and saluted
us with the native 'wake.' Our guides explained that
we were Wangwana (whites), and intended to camp till

148 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiii

morning, when, if they had anything to sell, we would
trade. They said they Avere rejoiced to hear this, and
after they had exchanged a few words more — during
which we observed that they were taking notes of the
camj) — went away. Three other parties followed, and
retired in like manner. We had good cause to be
suspicious at this going backwards and forwards, and, as
our supper had lieen despatched, we thought it high
time to act. The men Avere hurried into the canoe, and
when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we
quietly pushed ofl", but not a moment too soon. As the
canoe glided from the darkened light that surrounded
us, I called the Doctor's attention to dark forms, some
crouching behind the rocks on our right, others scram-
bling over them, and directly a voice hailed us from the
top of the bank under which Ave had been lately resting.
' Neatly done,' said the Doctor, as we shot through the
water, leaA'iiig the discomfited would-be robbers behind
us. Here again my hand was stayed from planting a
couple of shots as a warning to them, by the presence
of the Doctor."

Livingstone.—'^ November '25th. — We came to some
villages on a high bank, where Makunga is living. The
chief, a young good-looking man, came and welcomed us.
War rages between Makunga and Uasmasene, a chief
between this and Lusiger. Ten men were killed l)y
Makunga's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of
fishermen ply their calling night and day as far as we
can see. I gave Makunga nine dotis and nine fundos."

Stanley. — " Our second evening at Makunga's, Susi,
tlie Doctor's servant, got gloriously drunk through the
cliief's liberal and profuse gifts of pombe. Just at dawn

1 87 1 THE PICNIC ON TANGANYIKA 149

next morning I was awakened by several sharp crack-
like sounds. I listened, and found the noise was in our
hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards
midnight, had felt some one come and lie down by his
side on the same bed, and, thinking it was I, -had
kindly made room, and lain on the edge of the bed.
But in the morning, feeling cold, he had thoroughly
awakened, and rising on his elbow to see who his bed-
fellow was, discovered, to his astonishment, that it was
Susi, who, having taken possession of his blankets and
folded them about himself, Avas occupying almost the
whole bed. The Doctor, with the gentleness character-
istic of him, instead of taking a rod, contented himself
with slapping Susi on the back, saying, 'Get up, Susi,
will you ! You're in my bed. How dare you, sir, get
drunk after I have told you so often not to % Get up !
You won't! Take that, and that, and that.' Still
Susi slept and grunted, so the slapping continued, till
even Susi's thick hide began to feel it, and he was
thoroughly wakened to his want of devotion to his
master, and looked very much crestfallen at this exposi
of his infirmity before 'the little master,' as I was called.
" I had seen nothing to compare to these fishing
settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and
plantains, banians, and mimosas, with capsoa gardens
to the right and left, looking down on a quiet bay,
whose calm waters reflected the beauties of the hills
which sheltered them from the rough tempests which
so often blew without. The fishermen evidently think
themselves comfortably situated. Nature has supplied
them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach
can desire. It is while looking at what seems complete

ISO DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiii

and perfect happiness that the thought occurs, how
must these people sigh, when driven across the dreary
wilderness between the lake country and the sea-coast,
for such homes as these ; hought by Arabs for two doti,
and driven to Zanzibar to pick cloves or do hamal
work."

Livi7igstone. — '■'■ Dccemher 9fh. — Leave New York Herald
Islet and go south to Lubumba Cape. The people now
are the Basansos along the coast. Some men here were
drunk and troublesome. We gave them a present, and
left them about half-past four in the afternoon, and
went to an islet in the north end in about three hours'
good pulling ; afterwards in eight hours to eastern
shore. This makes the lake, say, twenty-eight or thirty
miles broad. We coasted along to Makunga's and
rested."

Stanley. — " After bi'eakfast we lay down as usual for
an afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming
away in my tent in happy oblivion, when I heard a
voice hailing me : ' Master ! master ! get up quick.
Here's a fight going to begin.' I sprang up, snatched
my revolver-belt from the gun-stand, and went outside.
Sure enough, there appeared to be considerable animus
between a noisy vindictive-looking set of men and our
people. Seven or eight of our people -had taken refuge
behind the canoe, and had their guns half pointing at
the passionate mob, momentarily increasing in numbers,
but T could not see the Doctor anywhere.

'"Where's the Doctor f I asked.

" ' Gone over the hill, sir, with his compass,' said
Selim.

" ' Any one M'ith liim ?'

1871 THE DOCTOR AS PEACEMAKER 151

" ' Susi and Chumah.'

" ' You, Bombay, send off two men to warn the
Doctor, and tell him to hurry up here.'

" Just then the Doctor and his two men appeared on
the brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent
manner on the serio-comic scene which the little basin
we were in presented. A naked young man, perfectly
drunk, barely able to stand, beating the ground with
his only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a
madman, declaring by this and by that, in his own
choice language, that no Arab should halt one moment
on the sacred soil of Umsisi. His father, the Sultan,
was as drunk as he, though not quite so violent.

" Selim slipped my Winchester rifle, Avith the maga-
zine full of cartridges, into my hand, as the Doctor
arrived on the scene and asked calmly what was the
matter. He was answered that they were at Avar with
the Arabs since Mombo, the young son of Kisesa, Sultan
of Mazimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been
beaten to death by an Arab at Ujiji for looking into
his harem. The Doctor, baring his arm, said he was
not an Arab, but a white man from whom no black man
had ever suffered injury. This seemed to produce
great effect, for after a little gentle persuasion the
drunken youth and his no less drunken sire were
induced to sit down and talk quietly. They frequently
referred to Mombo, who was brutally murdered : ' Yes,
brutally murdered,' they exclaimed several times in
their own tongue, illustrating by faithful pantomime how
the unlucky youth had died.

"Livingstone continued talking to them in a mild
paternal way, when the old Sultan suddenly rose up,

152 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiii

and began to pace about in an excited manner, and in
one of his perambulations deliberately slashed his leg
with tlie sharp blade of his spear, exclaiming tliat the
Arabs had wounded him.

"It was evident that there was little needed to
cause all men in that hollow to begin a most sanguinary
strife. The gentle and patient bearing of the Doctor
had more effect than anything else in making all forbear
bloodshed, and in the end prevailed. The Sultan and
his son were both sent on their way rejoicing."

To sum up the results of this "Tanganyika picnic"
to the two travellers. The Doctor had taken careful
observations of the whole of the lake north of Ujiji,
had ascertained that there was no outlet north, by the
Lusize or any other river, and had satisfied himself that
here also were regions well fitted for mission stations
and for the residence of white men. He had also
recovered much of his bodily health and elasticity of
spirits, in this last felloAvship he was destined to enjoy
with one of his own race.

The younger man had gained that most precious of
all experiences — to him who can profit by it — daily inti
mate contact with a thoroughly noble and pious life ',
and his manly admiration had grown into enthusiasni
and hero-worship, till he can write deliberately; "You
may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and
analyse it carefully, and I will challenge any man to
find a fault in it." And he had discovered Livingstone's
secret. "His religion," he writes, "is a constant,
earnest, sincere practice. It is neither demonstrative nor
loud, but manifests itself in a quiet practical way, and
is always at work. In him religion exhibits its loveliest

1871 AN ADMIRING PUPIL 153

features : it governs his conduct not only towards liis
servants, but towards the natives, the bigoted Mahome-
dans, and all who come in contact with him. Without
it, Livingstone, with his ardent temperament, his
enthusiasm, liis high spirit and courage, luust have
become uncompanionable and a hard master. Religion
has tamed him and made him a Christian gentleman,
the most companionable of men and indulgent of
masters." *

Above all, Stanley had received and mastered a noble
lesson in the treatment of the natives. He had learnt
that the " soft answer turneth away wrath " Avith blacks
as with whites ; and that, wherever the blight of the
slave-trade had not passed, kindliness, honesty, and family
affection were scarcel}^ rarer amongst black than amongst
white folk. Having regard to Stanley's subsequent
career in Africa as Livingstone's successor, it is difficult
to exaggerate the value of those few weeks.

CHAPTER XIV

TO UNYANYEMBE ^VITII STANLEY *

1871-72

From the 14th to the 27th of December the two
travellers rested at Ujiji. At meals they sat on the
black bearskin and gay Persian carpet, their backs to the
wall, sipping their tea, and chatting on the incidents of
"the picnic," as the Doctor persisted in calling it. The
Doctor's spare time was spent in preparing despatches
and letters for home ; Stanley's, when not doAvn with
fever, in preparing for his march, and looking after his
friend's interests as he understood them. His soul was
vexed by the presence of the mutineers, who had baffled
the Doctor and forced him to turn back from Nj-angwe.
The Avords, " If I could only have gone one month farther
I could have said, ' My work is done,' " rang in his ears,
and he fretted at the sight of the men swaggering round
Ujiji with the Doctor's Enfield rifles. " At last he could
stand it no longer, and having obtained the Doctor's per-
mission, with the aid of 8usi, recovered them all without
coming to blows. And now came serious debates as to
the future. Every argument the younger man could
think of was urged to shake the Doctor's resolution.
" Your family are longing to see you." " I promise to

1871-72 CHRISTMAS 187 1 155

carry you every foot of the way back to the coast. You
shall have the finest donkey in Unyanyembe to ride." "Let
the sources of the Nile go. Come home and rest. Get
well, and then come back and finish what you have to do."

" Mr. Stanley," runs the Journal, " used some very
strong arguments in favour of my going home, recruit-
ing my strength, getting artificial teeth, and then return-
ing to finish my task; but my judgment said, 'All your
friends will wish you to make a complete work of the
sources of the Nile before you retire.' My daughter Agnes
says, ' Much as I wish you to come home, I had rather you
finished your work to your satisfaction than return merely
to gratify me.' Rightly and nobly said, my darling
Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, ' She's a chip of
the old block. My blessings on her and all the rest.' "

So the old explorer set his face as a flint ; but as a com-
promise agreed to go with Stanley to Unyanyembe, where
he had left stores and would find letters. There he would
wait till Stanley could sendhim up a band of free men from
Zanzibar with whom he could hope to complete his work.

Livingstones Diary.- — "December 26th. — Had but a sorry
Christmas yesterday. "

Stanley. — " Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had
resolved to keep the blessed and time-honoured day, as at
home, with a feast. The fever had quite gone from me
the night before, and on Christmas morning I was up and
dressed, and lecturing Ferajji on the importance of the
day to white men, and trying to instil into the sleek and
pampered animal some secrets of the culinary art. But,
alas, for my weakness ! Ferajji spoilt the roast, and our
custard was burned. The dinner was a failure. That
the fat-brained rascal escaped a thrashing was due only

156 DA VI D LIVINGSTONE chap, xiv

to my inability to lift my liands, but my looks were
capable of annihilating any one except Ferajji. He only
chuckled, and I believe had the subsequent gratification
of eating the pies, custards, and roast his carelessness had
spoiled for European j)alates."

Next day the preparations were completed. Living-
stone left everything to his young comrade, including the
route. The boldness of that chosen, with no assistance
but the chart Stanley had made of his outward journey,
elicited at once his hearty approval. Its plan was to
take boat to the south end of Lake Tanganyika, and then
to push straight east through a new country to Imrera
on the direct route from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, thus
avoiding disturbed districts and those of exacting chiefs,
who had i)lundered and hindered Stanley on his upward
march to Ujiji.

They had a prosperous and merry voyage of seven
days, in two canoes, the first carrying Livingstone and
his five servants (who in reward for their faithfulness
were taken as passengers and exempted from carrying any-
thing on the march), vdih. the Union Jack at the stern,
the second, Stanley, under the Stars and Stripes. On
January 7th they left the lake, and on the 1 Oth reached
Imrera, leaving it again on the 18th, and arriving at
Unyanyembe on February 18th.

The Doctor, though a (jiied, marched the whole way,
declining the " finest donkey in Unyan " which had been
thoughtfully provided for him. Theie was as usual
much wild rough work in jungle and forest, but with
glimpses of better things, such as had cheered him in
so many untrodden parts of Central Africa.

Tlius in his Journal. " Januari/ 10//;.— Across a very

1871-72 NEW ROUTE TO IMRERA 157

lovely green country of open forest, all fresh, like an
English gentleman's park. Game plentiful. Tree-covered
mountains right and left, and much brown haematite on
the levels." '■'■January IGth. — A very cold night after long
and heavy rain. Our camp was among brackens. Went
E, and by S. along the high land, and then saw a
village in a deep valley, to which we descended. Then
up another ridge to a valley, and along to a village
well cultivated. Up again at least 700 feet, and down
to Mereras village, hid in a mountainous nook, about
one hundred and forty huts with doors on one side. The
valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people
being eagerly engaged in weeding and hoeing, to take
advantage of the abundant rains which have drenched
us every afternoon."

This first ten days' march across the unexplored
country proved a severe trial to Stanley, out of
which he came with flying colours. " Against the col-
lective counsel of the guides I have persisted in being
guided only by the compass and my chart. They strenu-
ously strove to induce me to alter mj course, and the
veterans asked if I were determined to kill them with
famine, as the road Avas N.E. ; but I preferred putting my
trust in the compass. No sun shone on us as we threaded
our way through the primeval forest. A. thick haze
covered the forests ; rain often pelted us ; the firmament
was an unfathomable depth of gray vapour. The Doctor
had perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way."

On their arrival at Imrera he writes : " By noon we
were in our old camp. The natives gathered round,
bringing supplies of food, and to congratulate us on
having gone to Ujiji and back, but it was long before the

158 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiv

lust of the exj)edition arrived. The Doctor's feet were
very sore and bleeding from the wear}^ march. His shoes
■were in a very worn-out state, and he had so cut and
slashed them to ease his blistered feet that any man of our
force would have refused thein as a gift, no matter how
ambitious he might be to encase his feet a la Umsunga."

" 19//i.— Mpokwa's deserted village. The Doctor's
feet were very nnich chafed and sore bj-^ the marching.
He had walked on foot all the -way, though he owned a
donkey ; while I, considerably to my shame be it said,
had ridden occasionally to husband jny strength, tliat I
miglit be able to hunt after arrival at camp." In tliis
important pursuit, for the force depended on him for
meat, Stanley found new ground for his hero-worshij).
He hunted with the Doctor's Reilly rifle. He was often
successful, and "when I returned to camp with meat I re-
ceived the congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued
above all others, as he knew from long experience what
shooting was."

On January 20th they halted, and Stanley stalked and
hit a giraffe, which went ofi' notwithstanding. " The
Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent young
hunter, attributed my non -success to shooting with
leaden balls, which were too soft to penetrate the thick
hide of tlie giraffe, and advised me to melt my zinc
canteens, "with which to harden the lead. It Avas not the
first time I luid cause to thank the Doctor. None knew so
well how to console one for bad luck ; how to elevate one
in his own mind. If I killed a zebra, did not his friend
Oswell — the South African hunter — and himself long ago
come to the conclusion that zebra's was the finest meat
in Africa? If I sliot a bufTalo, .she was sure to bo the

1871-72 THE DOCTOR ON THE MARCH 159

best of her kind, and her horns worth carrying home as
specimens, and was she not faf? If I returned with-
out anything, the game Avas very wild, or the people had
made a noise and the game had been frightened, and who
could stalk animals already alarmed % Indeed he was a
most considerate companion, and knowing him to be
literally truthful, I was proud of his praise Avhen success-
ful, and Avlien I failed was easily consoled." Three days
later he killed a giraffe with the zinc bullet. In the
evening of the same day the Doctor was employed from ten
till midnight in taking observations from the star Canopus,
which showed Mpokwa to be in S. latitude 6° 18' 40",
diftering three miles only from the result Stanley had
arrived at on his upward journey hy dead reckoning.

" Januarii 21th. — We set out for Missonghi. About
half-way I saw the head of the expedition on the run,
and my donkey began to lash behind with his heels.
In a second I was aware of the cause by a cloud of bees
buzzing round my head, three or four of which settled
on my face and stung me frightfully. We raced madly
for half a mile, behaving as wildly as the poor bestung
animals. As this was an unusually long march, I doubted
if the Doctor could make it as his feet were so sore, so
I sent four men back with the litter ; but the stout old
hero refused to be carried, and walked all the way to
camp, eighteen miles. He had been stung dreadfully in
the head and face ; the bees had settled in handfuls in
his hair ; but, after a cup of warm tea and some food, he
was as cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile. . . .
Under that way-worn exterior lay a fund of high spirits
and inexhaustible humour ; that rugged frame enclosed
a young and most excellent soul. Every day I heard in-

i6o DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiv

numerable jokes and pleasant anecdotes, hunting stories
in which his friends Oswell, Wehb, Vurdon, and Gordon
Cuniniing were almost always the chief actors. At tirst
I was not sure but this joviality, humour, and abundant
animal sj)irits were the result of joyous hysteria, but as
I founil they continued while I was with him, I was
obliged to think them natural."

On January 31st they met a caravan from Unyan-
yembe, and Stanley learnt that >Shaw, whom he had left
there, was dead. He was ill of fever himself, and broke
out : " 'Ah, Doctor ! there are two of us out of three gone,
I shall be tlie tliird if this fever lasts.' 'Oh no, not at
all,' he replied. ' If you would ha\e died from fever,
you would have died at Ujiji, when you had that severe
attack of remittent. Don't think of it. Your fever now
is onl}^ the result of exposure to wet. I never travel
during the wet season. This time I have travelled be-
cause I did not Avisli to detain you at Ujiji.' Besides,
the Doctor added, he had stores of jellies and potted
soup, fish, ham, waiting at Unyanyembe, which he would
share with me, whereupon I was greatly cheered."

^^ February 6th. — Marching through Ukamba forest, the
Doctor said he could never pass through an African forest,
witli its solemn serenity and stillness, without wishing
to be buried quietly under the dead leaves. In England
there was no elbow-room, and graves- were often dese-
crated, and ever since he had bui'icd his wife in the
woods at Shupanga he had sighed for such a grave,
where his bones would get the rest tliey needed."

And so they went on, to Unyanyembe, the Doctor
sturdily marching all the way, but otherwise giving in
to being the petted guest ; taking no thought for the

1S71-72 UNYANYEMBE HOME DESPATCHES 161

morrow, but leaving food, route, and discipline on the
march to his young friend, while he just took his observa-
tions, and made short entries in his big Letts's diary.
On February 14th they marched into Unyanyembe
with flags flying and guns firing.

To his great annoyance Livingstone found that his
stores had been broken into and plundered, so that he
could not regale his companion upon anything but
crackers and hard cheese. What the Arabs had left
had ])een destroyed by Avhite ants, which had eaten even
the stocks of two valuable rifles, and the locks and barrels
had become useless from neglect and rust. Stanley's
store-room had also been broken into and plundered,
with the connivance of, if not by order of, the Governor,
who wonld not face the outraged travellers. However,
Stanley had still sufficient stores to set up his companion.

Luingstone' s Journal. — '^February 18th. — My losses by
the Banian-employed slaves are more than made up by
Mr. Stanley. Indeed I am quite set up, and as soon as
he can send me men, not slaves, from the coast, I go to
my work with a fair prospect of finishing it."

"February 20//;. — To my great joy I got four flannel
shirts from Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two
pairs of fine English boots had most considerately been
sent by my kind friend Mr. Waller."

"February 22nd. — Service this morning, and thanked
God for safety thus far. Got a packet of letters from an
Arab." In answering these letters, and writing despatches
to Lords Granville, Clarendon, and Sir R Murchison, the
(lays were spent. To Mr. Gordon Bennett also he wrote
a grateful acknowledgment for timely succour.

"March lith. — Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his
M

i62 DA VJD LIVINGSTONE <iiap. xiv

care my Journal, sealed with five seals ; the impressions
are those of an American gold coin, anna, and half-anna,
and cake of j)aint with royal arms, positively not to be
opened."'

Stardey. — "At dawn we were up. The bales and
baggage were taken outside, and the men prepared
themselves for their first march homewards. We had a
sad breakfast together. I couldn't eat, my heart was too
full ; nor did my companion seem to have any appetite.
We found something to do which kept us together. At
eight I was not gone, and I had thought to have been ofiF
at five A.M. 'Doctor, I'll leave two of my men. May be
you've forgotten something in the hurry. I'll halt a day
at Tara for your last word and your last wish. Now, we
must part. There's no help for it. Good-bye.'

" ' Oh, I'm coming Avith you a little way. I must see
you on the road.'

'"Thank you. Now, my men, home! Kirangoze,
lift the flag. March!'

" On the walk Livingstone once more told his plans,
and it was settled that his men should be hired for two
years from arrival at Unyanyembe, to give ample margin
for the completion of his work.

" ' Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part.
You have come far enough.'

'"Well, I will say this to you. You have done what
few men could do ; far better than some great travellers
I know. And I am grateful to you for what you have
done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you,
my friend.'

"'And may God bring you safe back to us all, my
dear friend. Farewell.'

1871-72 STANLEY'S FAREWELL 163

"'Farewell.'

" We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear
myself away before I was unmanned. But Susi, and
Chumah, and Hamaydah, the Doctor's faithful fellows,
they must all shake and kiss my hands ; before I could
quite turn away I betrayed myself."

Stanley resolutely turned his face eastward, but now
and then would take a look round at the deserted figure
of an old man in gray clothes, who with bended head
and slow steps was returning to his solitude. A drop
in the path came which would hide him from view. " I
took one more look at him. He was standing near the
gate of Kwihaha with his servants near him. I waved
a handkerchief to him, and he responded by lifting his
cap."

This was Livingstone's last sight of a white man. It
is well that we have so vivid a picture of the bent figure
in gray standing at the gate of Kwihaha. The old world
has borne on her surface few nobler or more pathetic
figures since time began. On the 17th Susi and
Hamaydah reached Stanley at the appointed halt, with
one letter for Sir Thomas Maclear and another for
himself.

The latter ran : "Kwihaha, Mardi I5th, 1872.— Dear
Stanley — If you can telegraph on your arrival in
London, be particular, please, to say how Sir Eoderick
is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when you
said I was 'not yet satisfied about the sources, but, as
soon as I shall be, I shall return and give satisfactory
reasons fit for other people.' This is just as it stands.
I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch
one ' to put a stout heart to a stey brae,' but you will

1 64 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xiv

do that, and I am thankful that before going away the
fever had changed into the intermittent, or safe form.
I would not have let you go but with great concern
had you still been troubled with the continued type. I
feel comfortable in commending you to the guardianship
of the good Lord and Father of all. — Yours gratefully,

" David Livingstone.

"■P.S. — March 16th. — I have written a note this
morning to Mr. Murray the publisher, to help you if
necessary in sending the Journal by book post or other-
wise to Agnes. If you call on him you will find him a
frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to you. D. L.

" To Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,

" Wherever he may be found."

"March 17th. — Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and
two more to bring back his last words, if any."

^^ March 19th. — My birthday. My Jesus, my King, my
Life, my All ! I again dedicate my whole self to thee.
Accept me. And grant, oh Gracious Father, that ere
this year is gone, I may finish my work. In Jesus'
name I ask it. Amen."

"March 25th. — Susi brought letter from Mr. Stanley.
He had a little fever, but I hope will go on safely."

CHAPTER XV

WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE

1872

The evening of life closes in sorrowfully (as men count
sorrow) on the lonely old explorer from the day of
Stanley's march for the coast. Five weary months
he waited at Unyanyembe before the arrival of the escort
whom Stanley enlisted and sent up from Zanzibar. But,
though sorely tried by the delay, all the work which
could be done on a halt went on as usual. No correspond-
ence or observations were neglected which could forward
any branch of his work, scientific, philanthropical, or
religious, and every available resource, such as his few
books afforded, used to the utmost.

Journal. — ^^ March \9)th. — Very rainy. Am reading
Mungo Park's Travels ; they look so truthful."

^^ April \st. — Read Young's Search after Livingstone;
thankful for many kind words about me. He writes like
a gentleman."

"April 2nd. — Making a sounding line out of lint
left by Stanley. Whydah birds building their nests.
The cock bird brings fine grass and seed stalks. He takes
the end inside the nest and pulls it all in, save the ear.
The hen keeps inside, constantly arranging the grass with

1 66 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xv

all her might, sometimes making the whole nest move by
her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass."

"April ith. — Copying astronomical observations for
Sir T. Maclear."

"April 15ih. — Hungup sounding line on poles one
fathom apart, and tarred it."

News came now of the destruction by natives of the
party of Arabs in Manyuema whom he was nearly
joining a year before. " April \6fh. — To go with them to
Lomame, as my slaves wei'e willing to do, was so re-
pugnant to me that I preferred to return that weary
600 miles to Ujiji. I mourned over being baffled and
thwarted all the way, but tried to believe it was all for
the best. This news showed that, had I gone, I could not
have escaped the Bakuss spears, for had I gone I could
not have run like the routed fugitives."

" May 1st. — Bought a cow foreleven dotis of Merikano;
she gives milk, and this makes me independent. Herd-
man of Baganda from whom I bought her said, ' I go off
to pray.' He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first
proselyte they have gained. Baker thinks the first
want of Africans is to teach them to want. Interesting,
seeing that he was bored almost to death by Kamrasi
wanting everything he had ! . . . . Finished a letter
to the New York Herald, to elicit American zeal to
stop the East Coast slave-trade. I pray for a blessing
on it from the All-Gracious." The last sentence of
this letter is inscribed on his tomb in Westminster
Abbey. " All I can add in my loneliness," it rims, " is,
may Heaven's rich blessings come down on every one,
American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the
open sore of the world."

1872 WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE 167

" May ith. — Many palavers about Mirambo's death.
Arabs say he is a brave man, and the war is not near its
end. Some northern natives called Bagoze get a keg of
powder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, wait
for a month or so eating the food of the captured place,
and come back for stores again. Thus the war goes on.
Prepared tracing paper to draw map for Sir Thomas
Maclean Lewale invites me to a feast."

"ilfif// llfh. — A serpent of dark olive colour found
dead at my door killed by a cat. Puss approaches very
cautiously and strikes her claw into the head with a blow
delivered as quick as lightning ; then holds the head
down Avith both paws, heedless of the wriggling mass of
coils behind it ; she then bites the neck and leaves it, look-
ing at the disfigured head as if she knew that there had
lain the hidden jjower of mischief. She seems to possess
a little of the nature of the Ichneumon, which was sacred
in Egypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in
pursuit of mice when killed by puss."

"Mayl7th. — Waiting wearily. Ailing. IMaking cheeses
for the journey ; good, but sour rather, as the milk
soon turns in this climate, and we don't use rennet, but
let the milk coagulate of itself ; and it does thicken in
half a day."

" May 23rd. — A family of ten Whydah birds come to
the pomegranate trees in our yard. The eight young
ones are fed by the dam as young pigeons are. The food
is brought up from the crops without the bowing
and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup briskly for
food. The dam gives most, while the red-breasted cock
gives one or two and then knocks the rest away."

A passage in Speke that the women in Kasenge, an

i68 DAVID LIVINGSTONE < hap. xv

island in Tanganyika, sold tlieir children, draws a long-
comment from the Doctor, in which he enters on the
missionary topic, and draws a ])ictiire of what active
men could do in this region. " In crossing Tanganyika
three times I was detained on Kasenge aboixt ten weeks
in all. On each occasion Arab traders were present, all
eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and they
assured me they had never seen the habit alleged to exist
by Speke. I would say to missionaries, 'Come on,
brethren, to the real heathen. You have no idea how
brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes
and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they
are called, you ■\\nll find, with some drawbacks and
wickednesses, a very great deal to admire and love. Many
statements made about them require confirmation. You
will never see women selling their infants. The Arabs
never did, nor have I.' " And after going into practical
details : " It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but
with abundant materials for surrounding oneself with com-
forts and improving the improvable amongst the natives.
Clothing would require but small expense. Four suits of
strong tweed served me comfortably for five years."

Mwj 21th. — After noticing the arrival of another pair
of Whydahs with brood, in which the cock bird feeds
all the brood : " The young ones lift up a feather as
a child would a doll, and invite others to do the same,
in play. So too with another pair ; the cock skips from
side to side with a feather in his bill, and the hen is
pleased. Nature is full of enjoyment. . . . Cock Whydah
bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped
to it for food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not
knowino; death."

1872 IVAITIiVG AT UNYANYEALBE 169

There are troubles even amongst the few faithful
servants left with him.

^^ May 29th. — Halima ran away in a quarrel with
Ntaoeka. I went over to Sultan Bin Ali, and sent a
note after her, but she came back of her own accord and
only wanted me to come outside and tell her to enter.
I did so, and added, ' You must not quarrel again.' She
has been extremely good ever since I got her at Katombo.
I never had to reprove her. She is always A^ery attentive
and clever, and never steals, nor would she allow her
husband to steal. She is the best spoke in the wheel ;
this her only escapade is easily forgiven, and I gave her
a warm cloth for the cold by way of assuring her that I
feel no grudge against her."

Within a few days Ntaoeka had been taken in hand
with equal success. " When Ntaoeka chose to follow us
rather than go to the coast, I did not like to have a fine-
looking woman among us unattached, and proposed that
she should marry one of my three worthies, Chumah,
Gardiner, or Mabruki, but she smiled at the idea. Chu-
mah was evidently too lazy ever to get a wife. The other
two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a good
presence, and is buxom. Chumah promised reform. He
had been lazy, he admitted, because he had no wife, and
on my speaking to her again she consented. ... I
have noticed her ever since working hard from morning
to night, the first up in the morning, making fire and
hot water and wood, sweeping, cooking."

"June I9th. — Whjalahs, though full fledged, still gladly
take a feed from their dam, putting down the breast to
the ground, cocking up the bill, and chirruping in the
most engaging way they know. She gives them a little,

I70 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xv

but administers a friendly shove too. They all pick up
feathers and grass, and hop from side to side of their
mater, as if saying, ' Come, let us play at making little
homes.' The wagtail has shaken her young quite off,
and has a new nest. She warljlcs prettily, very much
like a canary, and is very active in catching flics, but eats
crumbs and bread and milk too. Sun birds visit the
pomegranate flowers, and eat insects therein too as well
as nectar. The young Whydah birds crouch closely to-
gether at night for heat. They look like a woolly ball
on a branch. By day they engage in pairing and coax-
ing each other. They come to the same twig every
night. Like children, they try to lift heavy weights of
feathers above their strength."

" June 2 \st. — Lewalc off to the war witli Mirambo. He
is to finish it now ! a constant fusilade along the line of
his march west Avill expend much powder, but possibly
get their spirits up. If successful Ave shall get Banyam-
weze pagazi in numbers. Mirambo is reported to have
sent one hundred tusks, and one hundred slaves, towards
the coast to buy powder."

'■'■ Jmie 2ilh. — The medical education has led me to a
continual tendency to suspend the judgment. AVhat a
state of blessedness it would have been had I possessed
the dead certainty of the homojopathists, and as soon as
I found Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamalondo pour-
ing their waters down the great central valley, bellowed
out, ' Hurrah ! Eureka !' and got home in firm and honest
belief that I had settled it, and no mistake. Instead of
that I am even now not cocksure that I have not been
following down what may after all be the Congo."

"July 2nd. — Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr.

1872 WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE 171

Webb of Zanzibar. Explain to Kirk, and beg him to in-
vestigate and punish, and put blame on right persons"
(for the robberies of his goods). "Write Sir B. Frere
and Agnes. Send large packet of astronomical obser-
vations and sketch map to Sir T. Maclear by native,
Suleiman."

'■'■ July ^rd. — Received note from Oswell, written April
last, containing the sad news of Sir Roderick's departure
from amongst us. Alas ! alas ! this is the only time in
my life I have ever been inclined to use the word, and
it speaks a sore heart. The best friend I ever had — true,
warm, abiding. He loved me more than I deserved.
He looks down on me still. I must feel resigned by the
Divine Will ; still I regret and mourn."

"July 5th. — Weary ! weary !"

"Juhj 7th. — Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the
good and loving Father of all may fa:vour me, and help
me to finish my work quickly and well. Temperature
at six A.M. 61°; feels cold." Here, as though to divert
his sad thoughts, comes a vivid description of the
Makombwe, the hereditary hippopotamus -hunters, and
their method of hunting, ending : " This hunting requires
the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can be con-
ceived,— double armed and three-fold brass, or whatever
the JEneid says. The Makombwe are certainly a mag-
nificent race of men, hardy and active in their habits, and
well fed, as the result of their brave exploits ; being a
family occupation, it has no doubt helped in producing fine
physical development. Though all the people amongst
whom they sojourn would like the profits they secure,
I have met with no competitors to them except the
Wayeiye, of Lake Ngami and adjacent rivers. I have seen

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing their
horses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained
to its fullest power, and perhaps had they been brought
up as Makombwe tliey might have equalled their daring
and consummate skill. But we have no sport, except
perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the couiage and
coolness their enterprise demands. The danger may be
appreciated if one remembers that no sooner is blood
shed in the water than all the crocodiles below are im-
mediately drawn iip stream by the scent, and are ready
to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse."
Then he relieves the Aveary waiting by a dissertation
on the prospects of a mission station one hundred miles
from the east coast, warmly advocating it. "A couple
of Europeans beginning a mission without a staff of
foreign attendants implies coarse country fare, it is true,
but it would be nothing to those who at home amuse
themselves with fasts, vigils, etc. A great deal of power
is thus lost to the Church. Fastings and vigils Avithout
a special object are time run to waste, made to minister
to a kind of self-gratification instead of being turned to
account for the good of others. They are like groaning
in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill by
continuous moaning. The forty days of Lent might be
spent in visiting adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable
hunger and thirst with a good grace. 'Considering the
greatness of the end to be attained, men might go with-
out sugar, coffee, tea, etc.; I went from September 1866
to December 1868 without either."

"July 12^/t. — When endeavoiiring to give some
account of the slave-trade of East Africa, it was
necessary to keep far within the truth in order not to

1872 WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE 173

be thought guilty of exaggeration ; but in sober serious-
ness, the subject does not admit of exaggeration. The
sights I have seen, though common incidents in the
traffic, are so nauseous that I strive to drive them from
my memory. In most cases I can succeed in time, but
the slaving scenes come back unbidden, and make me
start up at dead of night horrified by their vividness."

A long paper of notes on the geology of Central
Africa serves to while away the time while his escort
creeps slowly up, and the war all round him between
the Arabs and Mirambo drags on. One characteristic
incident in this war of the kites and crows may be
noted.

'•'■July 17th. — Went over to Sultan Bin Ali yesterday.
Very kind as usual. He gave me guavas, and a melon
called 'matange.' It is reported that one of Mirambo's
men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed holes, which
acted like Bruce's ' crow toes ' at Bannockburn, and
wounded several. This has induced the Arabs to send
for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo
at a distance. The gun is borne past us this morning,
a brass seven-pounder, dated 1679. Carried by the
Portuguese commander to China in 1679, or one hundred
and ninety -three years ago, and now used to beat
Mirambo by Arabs who have very little interest in the
war ! "

"July 2\st. — Bought two milch cows with calves for
seventeen dotis, or thirty -four fathoms. Bagandas
packing up to leave for home. They take a good deal
of brandy and gin for Mtesa from the Moslems.
Temperature at noon 96°, Another nest of wagtails
fiown ; they eat bread-crumbs. I wish my men would

174 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chai-. xv

come and let me off this waiting. . . . Some philosophis-
ing is curious. It represents our Maker forming the
machine of the universe ; setting it agoing, and able to
do nothing more outside certain of His own laws. He,
as it were, laid the egg of the whole, and, like an ostrich,
left it to be hatched by the sun. We can control laws,
but He cannot ! A fire set to this house would consume
it, but we throw on water and consume the fire. We
control the elements fire and water : is He debarred
from doing the same, and more, who has infinite wisdom
and knowledge ? "

At last, on July 31st, he hears that his escort are only
twelve days off, and notes that he is " thankful even for
this in my wearisome waiting."

" August 5th. — In some parts one is struck by the fact
of the children having so few games. Life is a serious
business, and amusement is derived from imitating the
vocations of the parents — hut building, making little
gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Else-
where boys are very ingenious little fellows, and have
several games ; they also shoot birds with bows, and
teach captured linnets to sing. They make play-guns
of reeds, which go off with a trigger and spring with a
cloud of smoke. The boys shoot locusts with small toy
guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed,
and dirty speckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for
the first time this season and lighted on the ground.
This kind builds here in houses, and as far south as
Shupanga."

"August &fh. — Wagtails begin to discharge their young,
which feed themselves. I can think of nothing but
'when will these men come?' Sixty days was the

1872 ARRIVAL OF MEN 175

period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for
the best in the good providence of the Most High."

^^ August 9th. — I do most devoutly thank the Lord for
His goodness in bringing my men near to this. Three
came to-day, and how thankful I am I cannot express.
It is well ; the men who went with Stanley come again
to me. ' Bless the Lord, Oh my soul, and all that is
within me bless His holy Name, amen.'"

"August 15tk — The men came yesterday, having
been seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful
I am to the Giver of all good. I have to give them a
few days' rest, and then start."

"August 20th. — Weighed all the loads again, and gave
an equal load of fifty pounds to each, and half to the
Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with
Sultan Bin Ali. He has long been sick, and unable to
go with us."

"August 2lst. — Gave people an ox, and to a discarded
wife a cloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping
her. She is somebody's child ! "

All is noAv ready for the start. Once more, forward
brave old heart !

CHAPTER XVI

THE LAST ADVANCE — DEATH

1872-73

On August 25th, 1872, all was ready, and the old
traveller marched out of Unyanyembe at the head uf a
party of fifty-six men sent him by Mr. Stanley. "A
dutiful son could not have done more than he generously
did. I bless him." He writes six months later to Sir
Thomas Maclear and Mr. Mann in a last letter, never
finished : " The men have behaved as well as Makololo.
I cannot award them higher praise, though they have
not the courage of that brave kind-hearted people."
"Opere peracto ludemus," he wrote about the same
date to his old college friend Mr. James Young, or Sir
Parafine, as he playfully called him, " you remember, in
your Latin rudiments, ' lang syne.' It is time for you,
and I rejoice to think is now your portion, after working
nobly, to play. May you have a long spell of it ! I am
differently situated. I sliall never be able to play. To
me it seems to l)e said, ' If thou forbear to deliver them
that are drawn to death, and tliem that are ready to be
slain ; if thousayest, "Behold we know it not," iloth not
lie that pondereth tlie heart consider, ami Tie that keepeth
the soul doth He not know, and shall He not give every

1S72-73 LAST STAUT 177

man according to his works ? ' I laave been led unwit-
tingly into the slaving field of the Banians and Arabs in
Central Africa. I have seen the woes inflicted, and
must still do all I can to expose and mitigate the evils.
Though hard work is still to be my lot, I look genially on
others more favoured. I would not be a member of the
International, for I love to think of others enjoying life."

The men who in a few weeks' time were as good as
Makololo Avere by no means so at first. On the second day
two of the Nassickers lost one out of his ten cows, and
again on August 30th : "The two Nassickers lost all the
cows yesterday from sheer laziness. Found a long way
off and one cow missing. She was our best milker. Susi
gave them ten cuts each with a switch." Nassickers,
however, were in as perfect order as the rest in a few
weeks under the superb powers of organisation and
management of the old explorer, Avhen he writes to
Stanley : " I am perpetually reminded that I owe a great
deal to you for the men you sent. With one exception
the party is working like a machine. I give my orders
to Mwana Sera, and never have to repeat them."

With these fifty -six men and two women, Livingstone
set out from Unyanyembe on his last march on August
25th, 1872. It ended on Ai)ril 30th, 1873, in
Chitambo's village of Ilala, on the south-western shore of
Lake Bangweolo. Those who have followed him on the
map in his last journey, when he returned baffled and
broken down in health from his extreme north-western
point on the Lualaba — far uj) in Central Africa, and
still doubtful whether he was on the sources of the Nile
or the Congo — will be surprised at the southern direction
of his last march. It seems at first sight to have little

N

178 DAVID UriNGSTONE chap, xvi

bearing on the great question, Nile or Congo. His
reasons for the route chosen seem to have been as
follows. From careful sifting of the reports of native
travellers he was inclined to believe that the story told
by the priest of Minerva to Herodotus, in the temple of
Sais, of the two conical hills in Central Africa, Crophi
and Mophi, from the unfathomed fountains at whose
feet flowed two rivers, the one to the north through
Egypt, the other to Ethiopia, was worth more than the
father of history had assigned to it. He would satisfy
himself as to this by visiting the two hills due west of
Bangweolo. Then turning due north, and visiting the
copper mines and underground excavations in the
Katangas country by the way, he hoped in twelve days
to strike the head of the unexplored lake, where
he looked for the final solution of his doubts. " Then
I hope devoutly to thank the Lord of all, and turn my
face along Lake Kamalondo, and over Lualaba, Tangan-
yika, Ujiji, and home ! "

This last and crowning expedition Avould therefore
have put a girdle outside his previous explorations in
these districts, keeping to the Avestward of Lake Moero,
and so up north by Lake Lincoln till he struck the Lualaba
on its west bank, beyond the point where he had been
foiled and turned back two years before. He would
have there crossed into the Manyueina territory, and
returned to his starting-point round the northern end of
Lake Tanganyika. A truly heroic piece of work for a
man of sixty, woi'n by previous hardships and subject to
a cruel and exhausting form of dysentery from over-
exertion or exposure.

Knowing the event as Ave do, it is a pathetic task to

1872-73 ILLNESS ON MARCH 179

follow him. War was raging over much of the district
east of Tanganyika through which his path lay, adding
greatly to the danger and difficulties of the march, the
people being distrustful and unwilling or unable to sell
provisions. Sometimes he rode one of the donkeys, but
as a rule tramped along till September 21st, when his old
enemy, which had already attacked him, had to be seriously
met. " Rest here," runs the entry, " as the complaint does
not yield to medicine or time ; but I begin to eat now,
which is a favourable symptom," and then follow notes on
the habits of kites, and on the gingerbread palm. And
even as disease gains on him, similar notes on the
products and people are made day by day, with observa-
tions, when these could be taken, the direction of the route
and distance traversed, and the daily orders to his men.

His great loving heart, too, is open all the way. Here
it is a poor woman of Ujiji who had followed one of
Stanley's men, and been cast off by him ; " she had
quarrelled all round ; her temper seems too excitabld ;
she is somebody's bairn, nevertheless."

^^ November ISth. — One of the men picked up a little
girl deserted by her mother. As she was benumbed by
cold and wet, he carried her, l^ut when I came up he
threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry her,
and we gave her to one of the childless women."

Every day some of the men are ill and have to be
cared for, and loads readjusted. The region is for the
most part desolate all round the southern end of
Tanganyika. " The population of Myunda must have
been prodigious, for all the stones have been cleared and
every available inch of soil cultivated. The population
are said to have been all swept away by the Watuta."

i8o DAVID LIVINGSTONE riiAP. xvi

Food was constantly running short.

" November 3rd. — We marched to a village where food
was reported. I had to punish two useless men for
calling out 'Posho ! posho!' rations, as soon as I came
near. One is a confirmed bange ^ smoker. The blows
were given lightly, but I promised that the next should
be severe."

Now and then an undisturbed village occurs, or a
friendly chief.

^^ November 27 fh. — As it is Sunday we stay here at
N'daris village, for we shall be in an uninhabitable tract
to-morrow beyond the Lofu. The head-man cooked six
messes for us, and begged us to remain for more food,
which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour
and a fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti.
Very heavy rain and high gusts of wind, which wet us
all." The rainy season had set in severely, and the hot
ground, which had scorched their feet on the rocky
paths near Tanganyika, had turned into a vast sponge or
swamp on the eastern and southern shores of Lake
Bangweolo, which they were now approaching.

His humour never forsook him even in these dreary
days. At a large stream beyond the Lofu " a man
came to the bridge to ask for toll. As it was composed
of one stick only, and unfit for our use, because rotten, I
agreed to pay, provided he made it fit for us, but if I
remade and enlarged it, I said he ought to give inc a goat.
He slank away, and we laid large trees across."

"29th. — Chiw6 presented us Avith a small goat with
crooked legs and some millet flour, but grumbled at the
cloth I gave. I offered anothei- fathom and a bundle of
' Hemp.

1872-73 LAST CHRISTMAS 181

needles, but he grumbled at this too, and sent it back.
On this I returned his goat and marched."

'■'■December 3rd. — We crossed the Kanomba, fifteen
yards wide and knee deep. Here our guide disappeared.
So did the path."

In December the rains come on, and the whole
country soon becomes a large sponge. The ominous
single word "111" appears in the journal; still every
stream crossed is entered in his pocket-book, with
observations when they could be taken, and the marching
orders, and direction of route. And no suffering is
allowed to interfere with discipline.

"■December 16th. — The pugnacious spirit is one of the
necessities of life. When people have little or none of it,
they are subjected to indignity and loss. My own men
walk into houses where we pass the night without leave,
and steal cassava without shame — I have to threaten and
thrash to keep them honest ; while if we are at a village
where the natives are a little pugnacious, they are as meek
as sucking doves. The peace plan involves indignity and
wrong. I give little presents to the head-men, and to
some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is much
appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping."

'^December '2Uh. — Sent back Chama's arrows" (a
bundle he had taken two days before), "as his foolish
brother cannot use them against us now. There are
215 in the bundle."

" Christmas Day. — I thank the good Lord for the good
gift of His Son, Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an
ox, and gave a fundo and a half to each of the party. This
is our great day, so we rest. It is cold and wet, day and
night. The head-man is gracious and generous, which is

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
sell, or stop to speak, or show the way."

" 27///. — I killed a snake seven feet long here. He
reared up before me, and turned to fight. No observa-
tions possible through most of this month. A man ill,
and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain
without fire. Sent men back to carry him."

" 29//i or \d January. — Our man Chipangawazi died
last night, and was buried this morning; a good quiet man.
I am wrong two days."

'■'■January 8th. — We are near Lake Bangweolo and in
a damp region." From this time the advance was a con-
stant plunging through morasses and across the many
rivers running into Bangweolo. Pushing through deserted
villages, " population all gone from the Avar of Chitoka
with Chitunkue," chief of this region. " No astronomical
observations worth naming during December and
January; impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.
It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives
lying and misleading us wherever they can. They fear
us very greatly, and with a terror that would gratify an
anthropologist's heart."

He could now only travel on tlie shoulders of Susi
and others. "The country is covered with bracken, and
rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These
are now deep, and have a broad selvage of sponge." Here
is a specimen of their difficulties : "Carrying me across one
of the broad deep sedgy rivers is really a very difficult
task. One we crossed was at least 2000 feet broad. The
first part, the main stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and
wetted my seat and legs. One held up my pistol behind,
then one after another took a turn; and when he sank

1872-73 DISCIPLINE TO THE LAST 183

into a deep elephant's footprint he required two to lift
him on to the level, which was over waist deep. Others
went on, and bent down the grass to insure some footing
on the side of the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve
paces brought us to a clear stream, flowing fast in its own
channel, while over all a strong current came bodily
through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
first spell, then Farijala, then a tall stout Arab-looking
man, then Amoda ; and each time I was lifted off bodily
and put on another pair of broad willing shoulders, and
fifty yards put them out of breath. No wonder ! It was
sore on the women folk."

In February the chance of starvation was added to his
other trials.

" \d. — Scouts forced to return by hunger. Killed
our last calf, and turn back for four days' hard
travel to Chitunkubwe's. I send men on to bring back
food."

" 4//i.— Camp amongst deserted gardens, which afford
a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes."

" bill. — We are now at Chitunkubwe's mercy. Returned
over those forty-one miles in fifteen hours. I got lunars
for a wonder. Chitunkubwe is a fine jolly-looking man,
of a European caste of countenance, and very friendly.
I gave him two cloths, for which he seemed thankful,
and promised good guides to Matipa's. It seems we have
been close to human habitations, but did not know it.
We have lost half a month by this Avandering, all owing
to the unfriendliness of some and the fear of all."

Discipline never slackens.

"14//;. — Public punishment to Chirango for stealing
beads ; fifteen cuts. It was Halima who informed on

I.S4 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chai-. xvi

Chirango, as he offered her beads, for a cloth, of a kind
wliich she knew lunl not hitherto been taken out of the
baggage. This was so far faithful in her, but she has an
outrageous tongue. I remain because of an excessive
hsetnorrhagic discharge. If the good Loid gives me
favour, and permits me to finish my work, I shall thank
and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain,
and travel. This trip has made my hair all gray."

" \^ih. — Chitunkubwe'smen ran away, refusing to wait
till we had heard from Matipa," to whom he had sent
on Susi and Chumah.

" \1ih. — Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the
red Sirafu or Ihiver ants. Our cook fled first at their
onset. I lighted a candle, and remembering Dr. Van der
Kemp's idea that no animal will attack man unprovoked,
lay still. The first came on my foot quietly. Then
some began to bite between the toes. Then the larger
ones swarmed over the foot, bit furiously, and made
blood start. I went out of the tent and was instantly
covered as close as small-pox (not confluent) on a
patient. Grass fires were lighted, and my men picked
some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling
for an hour or two, they took me into a tent not yet
invaded, and I rested till they came — the pests — and
routed me out there too. Then came on a steady pour
of rain, as if trying to make us miserable. I got back to
my tent at nine .\.M." Then follows a <lescription of the
hal)its of this ant: "They remained with us till late in
the afternoon, and we put hot ashes on the defiant hordes.
They retire to enjoy the fruits of their raid, and come
out fresh anotlier day."

Susi had gone on to Matipa's to negotiate for canoes.

1872-73 --i FLOODED LAND 185

" We wait, hungry and cold, and hope the good Lord will
grant us influence with this man. If he fails us by
fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The
men say fear of me makes them act very cowardly. I
have gone amongst the whole population kindly and
fairly, but I fear must now act rigidly ; for Avhen they
hear we have submitted to injustice, they at once con-
clude we are fair game. It is, I can declare, not my
nature, nor has it been my practice, to go as if my back
were up."

" 22nd. — I was never in such misty, cloudy weather in
Africa No observations can possibly be taken."

" 26th. — Susi returned this morning with good news
from Matipa, who declares his willingness to carr)^ us
to Kabende for the five bundles of brass wire I offered."
The canoes arrived next day, but the paddlers proposed
to embark only half the party at once. " I refused to
divide our force. The good Lord help me. They say
]\Iatipa is truthful. New moon this evening."

^^ March Isf. — Embarked women and goods in canoes,
and went three hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Heavy rain
wetted us all. We went over flooded prairies four feet
deep, covered with rushes and two varieties of lotus or
sacred lily : both are eaten, and so are papyrus. The
men (paddlers) are great cowards. I took possession
of all their paddles and punt poles, as they showed an
inclination to move ofl" from our islet. Plains, extending
further than the eye can reach, have four or five feet of
clear water and lake ; and adjacent lands, for twenty or
thirty miles, are level. We are surrounded by scores of
miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus plants, but
no mosquitoes."

i86 DAVID LIVINGSTONE nivr. xvi

One follows the brave old man, now fast sinking, with
sore heart but ever-growing admiration. Detained at
Matipa's village, he is still gathering information on
legends, geography, natural history. "Matipa never
heard from any of the elders of his people that any of
his forefathers ever saw a European. He knew per-
fectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to
Casembe, and my coming to the islet Mpabala. The
following is a small snatch of Babisa lore, and told by an
old man who came to try for some beads, and seemed
much intei'ested about printing. He was asked if there
were any marks made on the rocks in any part of the
country, and this led to the story. Lukcranga came
from the west, a long time ago, to the river Lualaba.
He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass
over, he threw his mat on the water, and this served for
a raft. When he reached the other side there were
rocks at the landing-place, and the mark is still to be
seen on the stone, not only of his foot, but of a stick
which he cut with his hatchet, and of his dog's feet ; the
name of the place is Achewa." While Avaiting wearily
at Matipa's, he moved his camp out of the dirty village
to the highest point of the island for fresher air.

" March llth. — Matipa says 'Wait : Ka])inga is coming,
and he has canoes.' Time is of no value to him. His
wife is making him pombe, and will drown all his cares,
but mine increase and plague me. . . . Better news :
the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and we shall
concoct plans together."

'^ Marrh I2th. — The news Avas false; no one from
Kabinga. The men strung beads to-day, and I wrote
part of my despatch to Earl Granville."

1S72-73 LAST BIRTHDAY 187

No canoes or messengers from Kabinga coming,
Livingstone at last loses patience.

" \%th. — I made a demonstration by taking quiet pos-
session of his village and house ; fired a pistol through
the roof and called my men, ten being left to guard the
camp."

''March 19th (his last birthday).— Thanks to the Al-
mighty Preserver of men for sparing me thus far. Can
I hope for ultimate success 1 So many obstacles have
arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh ! my good
Lord Jesus."

"21st. — Gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire and
his wife a string of large neck beads, and explained my
hurry to be off. He is now all fair, and promises
largely ; he has been much frightened by our warlike
demonstration. I am glad I had nothing more to do
than make a show of force." At last on the 23rd he
gets away.

•' 2ith. — We punted six hours to a little islet without
a tree, and no sooner landed than a pitiless pelting rain
came on. We turned up a canoe for shelter. We shall
reach the Chambeze to-morrow. The wind tore the
tent out of our hands, and damaged it too. The loads
are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterly uncom-
fortable. A man put my bed in the bilge, and never
said 'bale out,' so I was safe for a wet night; but it
turned out better. No grass, but we made a bed of the
loads, and a blanket fortunately put into a bag."

" 25th. — Nothing earthly will make me give up my
work in despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my
God, and go forward."

Forward ! but with ever - thickening trouble, the

DA VID LIVINGSTONE

men marching through water, parallel with his progress
in a canoe.

" March Z\st. — Sent Kabinga a cloth and a message,
but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa. We must
take him as we find him ; there is no use in growling.
. . . Kabinga, it seems, pleased with the cloth — well ;
will ask for maize from his people and buy it for me."

''^ April Ath. — Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and
got a fat one for two and a half dotis, to give my people a
feast ere we start. The ' kambari ' fish of the Chambeze
is 3 feet 3 inches in length. Two others, the 'polwe'
and 'lopalakwao,' all go up the Chambeze to spawn
when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare
of the spawn of the 'pumbo.'"

" 5th. — March from Kabinga's on the Chambeze, our
luggage in canoes and men on land. We punted on
floods 6 feet deep, with many ant-hills all about
covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for 5 miles, across
River Lobingela, sluggish, 300 yards wide."

" 6(h. — Leave in same way, but men sent from Kabinga
to steal the canoes which we paid his brother j\lateysa
handsomely for . . . our party separated and we pulled
and punted six or seven hours in great difficulty, as the
fishermen refused to tell us where deep Avater lay. . . .
It is quite impossible to tell where land ends and lake
begins. It is water, water everywhere. The Nile
apparently enacting its inundations even at its
sources. . . A lion had wandered into this world
of water and ant-hills, and roared night and morning,
as if very much disgusted. We could sympathise ^nth
him."

" 10//i. — I am pale, bloodless, and weak from

1872-73 FAILING 189

bleeding profusely ever since 31st of March : an
artery gives off a copious stream, and takes away
my strength."

The party are now all together again and marching
slowly.

" 18^/i. — Crossed two large sponges, and I was forced
to stop at a large village after travelling two hours.
Very ill all night, but remembered that the bleeding
and most other ailments in this land are forms of fever.
Took two scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite
. . . not all pleasure this exploration." And then
follows the last note on the country he seems ever to
have made. " The Lavusi hills are a relief to the eye
in this flat upland. Their forms show you an igneous
origin. The river Kazya comes from them, and goes
direct to the lake. No observations now ; owing to
great weakness. I can hardly hold a pencil, and my
stick is a burden. Tent gone. The men built a good
hut for me and the luggage."

From this time, though scarcely conscious, he still
pushes on. On the 21st he even made an effort to
ride the donkey, but fell ofi' directly. Chumah threw
down his gun, ran on to stop the men ahead, and on
his return bent over his master, who said, "Chumah, I
have lost so much blood there is no strength left in my
legs, you must carry me." He was lifted on to Chumah's
shoulders, and carried back to the village.

^^ From the 2'inl to 26th April." — No entry but the date,
but he still struggled forward in the "Kitanda" (a
rough litter). While halting on the latter day, though
prone with pain and exhaustion, he directed Snsi to
count the bags of beads, and twelve being still in stock,

I90 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvi

directed him to buy two elephant's tusks to be ex-
changed for cloth when they reached Ujiji.

Tlie last entry on April 27th runs, "Knocked up quite,
and remain — recover — sent to buy milch goats. We are
on the banks of the Molilamo." The goats could not be
bought, and on the 29th, in the last stage of pain and
weakness, he was carried to the Molilamo and ferried
across. Ilala, the village of Chitambo a friendly chief,
was now close by, but twice on the way he desired to be
left where he was, the intense pain of movement having
mastered him. The last halt was for an hour in the
gardens outside. While his men prepared the raised
bed of sticks and grass inside, and banked the hut
round, a curious crowd gathered round to gaze at
the best friend Africa had ever had, and was about to
lose. Drizzling rain was falling, and a fire was lighted
outside the door. The boy Majwara slept inside the
tent.

In the morning Chitambo came, but the dying man
sent him away, telling him to come next day, when he
hoped to be able to talk. At eleven P.M. Susi was called
in by the l)oy. There was shouting in the distance, and
Livingstone asked, "Are our men making that noise?"
" No. The people are scaring a buflfalo from their dura
fields." A pause. " Is this the Luapula f "No, Ilala,
Chitambn's village." " How many days to the Luapula f
"I think three day.s, Bwana (master)." He dozed oft'
again. An hour later Susi again heard the boy's
" Bwana wants you, Susi." Susi went in ; he was told to
boil water, and then to get the medicine chest and hold
the candle, and he noticed that his master could hardly
see. He selected the calomel with difficulty, and was

1872-73 DEATH 191

told to put a cup with water, and another empty, by
the bed. " All right ; you can go out now," in a feeble
voice, were the last words he heard. About four A.M.
Majwara came again : " Come to Bwana, I am afraid.
I don't know if he is alive."

Susi, Chumah, and four others were at the tent-door
in a moment. The Doctor was kneeling by the bed, his
face buried in his hands on the pillow, dead.

CHAPTER XVIT

CONCLUSION

There can be no doubt that David Livingstone, as he
knelt by the rude bed at Ilala, and commended his
soul to God in the early morning of May 1st, 1873,
looked on himself as a beaten man. He had set his heart
on finishing off his work in this last journey. When he
had fixed the details, while waiting at Unyanyembe for his
men, he writes: " This route will serve to certify that no
other sources of the Nile can come from the south without
being seen l)y me. No one will cut me out after this
exploration is accomplished, and maj^ the good Lord of
all helj) me to show myself one of His stout-hearted
servants, an honour to my children, and perhaps to my
countrv and race." No one can cut me out after this is
done ! There is a trace of natural human weakness in
the phrase, and as the toilsome journey went on, and
strength, though not heart, was failing, there are entries
in the Journal such as this on his last birthday : — " March
19/A. — Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for
sparing me thus far. Can I hope for ultimate success ?
So man)'^ obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail
over me, Oh ! my good Lord Jesu.s."

A feeling whicli no one would call morbid, but for

CONCLUSION 193

Avhich it is difficult to find the precise phrase, undoubtedly
grew upon him in these last months, that he was en-
gaged in a personal encounter with a personal power
of evil, in which death on the road would mean defeat.

Has not the experience of every martyr been the
same? The more perfect the self-sacrifice in life, the
more surely would this shadow seem to have hung over
the last hours of the world's best and bravest, the only
perfect life being not only no exception, but the great
exemplar of the law. It is written " Except a grain of
wheat die it beareth no fruit." Never were those mighty
words illustrated more perfectly than in the death of
David Livingstone. The first-fruits ripened within a
few hours of the master's death. Susi and Chumah called
the men together outside the hut. Not a man of the
fifty-six faltered for a moment : they had learned much
in those nine months. "You are old men," they said,
" in travelling and hardships. You must be our chiefs.
We will do Avhatever you order."

Susi and Chumah justified the trust. The body and
all the property must be carried back to Zanzibar. So
they resolved, and so it was done.

They buried the heart and entrails under a tree, on
which Jacob Wainwright, one of the Nassicker boys, the
scholar of the party, carved the name and date; Chitambo,
who behaved in a most friendly way, promising to keep
the grass cut and the grave respected. They then
dried the body and packed it in bark, the process keeping
them fourteen days. Jacob Wainwright made an in-
ventory of the contents of the two special tin cases, im-
pervious to water and ants. " In the chest," it runs,
" was found about a shilling and A, and in other

o

194 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvii

chest his liat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measur-
ing instrument, and in each box there was one — 1
compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument, 4
other kind of measuring instrument, and in other chest
3 drachmas and half half-scrople." Besides these, there
were his rifles, sextants, Bible and church-service, and a
number of note-books filled with observations. All
were catalogued, and on February 15th, 1874, delivered
to the English Consul at Zanzibar, not an article missing
except some of the instruments. These had been taken
out by Lieutenant Cameron, commanding one of the
search-expeditions, on their arrival at Unyanyembe on
October 20th. The Lieutenant advised the burial of the
body in Africa. Livingstone, in sight of a forest-grave
in June, 1868, had written: "This is the sort of grave
I should prefer; to lie in the still still forest, and no
hand ever to disturb my bones. Poor Mary lies on
)Shupanga brae, and beeks forenent the sun." But the
faithful bearers would not hear of this. They had
allowed bulk to be broken, and the familiar instruments
taken out, but the body of their master must be taken
back to his old home, far away across the great waters.

Thus they carried Livingstone to the sea, through
swamp, desert, and all the intervening tribes — super-
stitious, destitute, often hostile — with only one collision,
when they were attacked first and had to storm a village.
The story stands alone in history. The ten thousand had
Xenophon still alive to lead them back, and they were
soldiers and Greeks ; but Livingstone was dead, and his
men negroes, and most of them recently freed slaves.

From Zanzibar his bones were carried on board the
Queen's ship Calcutta to Aden, from thence by J', and 0.

1 874 THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION 195

boat to Southampton, where they were received with
all honour, and forwarded by special train to London
on April 16th, 1874. They were examined by Sir
William Fergusson, identified by the false joint in the
arm, and buried in the centre of the nave of West-
minster Abbey on April 19th, while the heart of England
swelled with grief and pride over one of her noblest sons.
A few words as to the fruit that grain of martyr-
wheat has borne in the last sixteen years, and the
prospect of the harvest in 1889, may fitly close our
sketch. The Universities Mission claims the first place.
We have seen the enthusiasm with which Livingstone's
words had been welcomed at Cambridge in 1858, "I know
that in a few years I shall be cut off in that country,
which is now open. Do not let it be shut again ; " how
the first gallant advance led by Bishop Mackenzie in
1861, ended in his death and the retirement of the
headquarters of the mission to Zanzibar under his
successor ; how the old pioneer mourned over that
retreat. He did not live to see that temporary abandon-
ment of the mainland justify itself. From the island
centre at Zanzibar the Mission has now spread over one
thousand miles of the neighbouring mainland. Its staff,
including the bishop and three archdeacons, numbers
ninety-seven, of whom two deacons and thirty-two
teachers and readers are natives, and nineteen English
ladies. Its income for 1887 exceeded £1.5,500. It has
three stations on the island and ten on the mainland.
The island stations are — (1) the old slave-market in the
town of Zanzibar, from which the needs of all the stations
are supplied as far as means allow, and in which are the
bishop's residence, when in rare intervals he rests from

196 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvii

his circuit, the theological school, and a large dispensary;

(2) Iviuiigani, where there is a boys' training-school;

(3) Mbweni, with its girls' school and native settlement
of freed slaves, for years a great expense but now not
only self-supporting but contributing not a little to the ex-
penses of the Mission by the carpentering and otlier work
done there for the mainland stations. These mainland
stations fall naturally into three districts — tlie Kovuraa,
the Nyassa, and the Magila. There are four stations in
the Rovuma district, besides schools and preaching-huts
in many neighbouring villages, and six English workers.
The superior chief of the dominant tribe, Barnaba
Matuka by name, is a convert and a hearty supporter,
and there is a large school to which the sons of cliiefs
and the richer natives come as boarders. "About twenty
boys sat down with us to dinner every day," Bishop
Smythies Avrites in his last report. The chief drawback
to this district is the fear of raids by the Gwangwara, but
since 1883 there has been no hostile action on the part of
this fierce tribe, who have been visited by several of the
missionaries at the risk of their lives.

The chief station of the Nyassa district is on the
island of Lukoma, in the middle of the lake. Here, and
at tlie two neighbouring stations on the east coast, nine
Englishmen are at work under Archdeacon Maples, one
of whom, the Rev. W. P. Johnson, travels up and down
the eastern lake-shore in the Charles Janson steamer,
named after a well-loved missionary ("our saintly
brother," the bishop calls him), M'ho died on the station
some years back. "I hope our ca])in," Mr. Johnson
writes, " will become more and more of a school class-
room and chapel, though it must be a saloon, sleeping-

THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION 197

room, library, and pantry as well. Several signs of
real spiritual influence spreading have encouraged us
all."

The third, or Magila, district lies in Usumbara, some
eighty miles to the north of Zanzibar, and is worked by
nineteen English under Archdeacon Farler. There are
four stations, Magila being the central one, which has a
fine stone church and a home for one hundred and
fifteen boys. Peace and security reign now all round
the mission.^ A market, attended regularly by from
two to three thousand traders, is established close by.
" The place is the scene of the busiest activity ; English
working-men of several trades are here surrounded
by African apprentices, and the African is not only
taught to read and brought to know God and His
love, but is now willing to work regularly for daily
wages." A sisterhood trains large classes of Avomen.
"Three of our most promising teachers," says the last
Report, " are Mahommedan converts." The difficulty
of getting hold of the boys, who at first Avent off
whenever the}' were spoken to, has been overcome, one
is glad to learn, by the Rev. J. C. Key. He enticed
some of the elder boys to play football, and " when they
have thoroughly enjoyed that there is some chance of
their coming regularly to school. So it is distinctly
part of one's work, even in a tropical climate, to play
football and amuse children that one may Avin them."
One more extract from the Archdeacon's letters may be
given in view of recent discussions. " In a number of
villages in the neighbourhood of this station, Avhere I
remember seeing a mosque a few years ago, there is now
1 November, 1888. All is now changed (Marcli, 1889).

198 DAVID LIVINGSTONE phap. xvii

a school-chapel, while the mosques ha\c fallen down and
no one rebuilds them."

A glance at the map will show that while the
Universities Mission has returned to the mainland, and
to the scene of some of Livingstone's })est work, it has
abandoned the Shire district in which it was first planted,
where are the graves of four out of the five leaders,^ and
from which Mr. Horace Waller, the survivor, led away
the remnant of freed men and children to the Cape in
1864.

These Shire highlands and the district beyond them,
between the western shore of Lake Nyassa and the
eastern of Lake Bangweolo, had been very dear to
Livingstone. In the foraier was the spot he had chosen
for the first station of the Universities Mission, and
here his Makololo followers had settled ; in the latter
was the grave at Ilala, where he ended his course and
his heart was buried in 1874. If these were to be left
as the hunting-ground of the Arab slave-dealers, success
in other districts would have lost half its worth.

Happily this has not been so. The Universities
Mission has only not returned to them because they
have been occupied by Livingstone's own countrymen.
As early as 1863 the Free Kirk had sent the Rev. Jas.
Stewart as a commissioner to report on the prospects of
missionary Avork in Nyassaland. He stayed with Bishop
Mackenzie and examined the district ; but the collapse
of the first effort made him advise delay; meantime he had
become the head of the Missionary College of Lovedale
in South Africa. When the news of Livingstone's death

' Bisliop Mackenzie, Rev. H. Scudamore, Rev. II. Burrows, and
Dr. Dickenson.

THE SCOTCH MISSIONS 199

thrilled England and Scotland in 1874 it was felt that
the time had come. The advance was sounded by Dr.
Stewart, and, laying aside all ecclesiastical rivalries, the
Established Church joined hands M'ith the Free and
United Presbyterian Churches in " The Mission to
Nyassa." Nobly has that mission been carried out, and
promptly. In May, 1875, Mr. Young, who had so ably
commanded the search for Livingstone, led the advanced
guard up the Zambesi and Shire to the Murchison Falls,
carrying a steamer, the Hala, in sections. These were
carried past the sixty miles of rapids by the Makololo.
" Eight hundred of these men worked, and worked des-
perately, for us," Mr. Young records, " free as air to come
or go as they pleased, over a road which furnished at
almost every yard an excuse for an accident or hiding-
place for thief or deserter, and yet at the end of sixty
miles we had everything delivered up to us unhurt and
untampered with, and every man merry and content
rt'ith his well-earned wages."

The llala was put together on the upper Shire, and is
still running on Lake Nyassa. That same year a central
station was founded and named Blantyre, on the Shir6
highlands, half-way between the two deserted stations of
the Universities Mission. It has grown into a powerful
settlement, mai-ching with the Makololo territory, and
extending its influence up to the lake. There is a lax'ge
school with seventy-five boarders, twenty-five being the
sons of chiefs. The neighbourhood is well cultivated,
all tropical fruits abound in the gardens, and tea and
■coffee plantations have been successfully started. Besides
the church and school there are four brick houses.
X30,000 has been expended at Blantyre. There are sub-

200 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chaf. xvii

stations at N'derani, where is a school of one hundred
taught by natives under the sujjerintcndencc of ]\Ir.
Scott, the head missionary, and his staff, and at Zoniba, on
the small lake Shirwa. Here, in the Shire highlands, the
Established Church of Scotland has paused, while her
sister Churches have carried on the work to the north all
along the three hundred and sixty miles of the western
shore of Lake Nj'assa. Their southernmost station is on
the bold promontory at the south end of the lake, named
Cape Maclear by Livingstone ; their northern, Mweni-
wanda, forty miles on the road to Lake Tanganyika.
The most important station between these two on the
western coast is Bandawe, almost opposite to the island
of Lukoma, the station of the Universities Mission, and
in the country of the Angoni, the most warlike tribe of
this part of Africa. These as a rule haughtilj^ disdain
to listen to the Gospel, but allow great numbers of their
children to attend the missionary schools, and themselves
use freely the services of the medical missions. These
have been established at each station under four ordained
medical men, and their progress may be judged by the
fact that between 1882 and 1884 the registered number of
patients rose from two to ten thousand yearly at Bandawe,
the chief medical station. In the twelve years Scotland
has sent out forty-three of her sons and daughters, ten
of whom have died at their posts, and has expended
£45,000 and upwards on the mission, the annual outlay
being now upwards of £4000. Perhaps the most note-
worthy of all the vScotch missionary work has been done
amongst the Angoni Ity Kafir pupils of Dr. Stewart,
trained at Lovedale and sent amongst this trilie, who
still retain the Kafir's tongue in their nuithcrn home.

THE AFRICAN LAKES COMPANY 201

Not content with missionary work, Livingstone's
countrymen have been developing legitimate trade,
Avhich he held to be only next in importance. The
African Lakes Company, founded to assist the missions
and substitute free industries for the slave-trade, have
been at work now for more than twelve years.

The Company started on a small scale, and have
steadily pushed on, with all the shrewdness and pei'sist-
ence of their race, until they have twelve trading-stations
— the southernmost, Kongone, at the principal mouth of
the Zambesi; the northernmost, Pambete, at the southern
end of Lake Tanganyika. They have thus gone far
ahead of the Scotch missions, having crossed the district
betAveen the two lakes, over which they have made a
road, named Stevenson's, after one of the pioneers. They
have three steamers on the Zambesi, Shire, and Lake
Nyassa, and have transported a fourth for the London
Missionary Society to Lake Tanganyika. They buy
ivory, india-rubber, wax, oil, and other products from
the natives, and have introduced indigo, tea, coffee,
chinchona, and other valuable plants. Hitherto they
have succeeded in stopping the liquor-traffic in the lake
districts.

Side by side with the Company the firm of B^^chanan
Brothers is doing the very work Avhich Livingstone
longed to see begun in the Shire highlands, and on their
plantations are growing coffee, sugar, and chinchona by
native labour, thus pitting freedom against slavery in
the most critical point on the whole Dark Continent.
Their plantations are in fact an offshoot of the mission,
the senior partner having gone out as gardener with the
first missionaries. Their plantations, of one, two, and

DA VI D LI 1 7NGST0NE chai-. xvii

three thousand acres respectively, are on lands granted
by native chiefs, at Blantyre and on Mount Zomba, where
the firm have built a house for the Consul whom England
still maintains there.

Lastly, the Church Missionary Society has taken
ground to the north-west, on lakes Tanganyika and
Victoria Nyanza. On each of these they have a steamer,
and in spite of the murder of the first bishop have
managed to hold their own, though obliged to abandon
the station at Ujiji, A\here Arab influence is paramount.
Besides their stations on Victoria Nyanza they have an
island on Tanganyika, and another station on the high-
lands to the south of that lake.

Such then is the position which British devotion and
energy have won on the scene of Livingstone's labours in
East Central Africa. The general result may be gavcn
in the words of an African explorer by no means
inclined to be an indulgent critic of missionary work •}
" The steamers of British Missionary Societies may now
be seen plying on Tanganyika and Nyassa, the Upper
Congo, the Niger, Binn6, and Zambesi. ... To British
missionaries many districts of tropical Africa owe the
orange, lime, mango, the cocoa-nut i)alm and pine apple,
improved breeds of poultry, pigeons, and many useful
vegetables. . . . The arrival of the first missionary is
like that of one of the strange half-mythical personalities
which figured in the legends of old American empires, the
beneficent being who introduces arts and manufactures,
implements of husbaruhy, edible fruits, medical drugs,
cereals, and domestic animals. . . . They have made
200 translations of the Bible in native languages, with

1 Mr. H. H. Johnston, Nineteenth Century, 1887, p. 723.

THE ARAB TRADERS 203

grammars and dictionaries." These results, however,
have not been attained -without rousing alarm, enmity,
and open antagonism. The Arab traders scattered all
over Central Africa have from the first recognised the
fact that the success of British missionary and com-
mercial stations and plantations meant in time the
certain extinction of the slave-trade, by which their
profits are made, and have used every means of excit-
ing the fears and jealousies of the native triljcs and
chiefs. They have never ceased trying to rouse the
tribes to drive out the missionaries, but hitherto with
no success. Indeed, so far as the Lake Nyassa disti'ict
is concerned, there were signs till lately that the leading
Arabs were abandoning the slave -trade, or carrying it
into other districts.

Bi;t a great change in the situation has occurred
during the last year, and a crisis has arisen which has
brought to a head the Central and East African contro-
versy between cross and crescent, the slave-trade and
free industry. No Englishman will doubt the final
issue :

" Set the two forces foot to foot,

And every man knows who'll be winner,
AVhose faith in God has any root

That goes clown deeper than his dinner."

But it is equally certain that the victory has yet to be
Avon, and will not be won easil}'.

In this crisis — in these early months of 1889 in its
acute phase, and changing almost from day to day — the
noblest and wisest missionary Avork which our country
has ever done is in sore jeopardy. It is well that this

204 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvii

should be known and taken to heart as widely as possible.
Had no distnrl)ing inHuences come from outside, the
l)attle was practically won in the districts of the
Universities Central African Mission.

Under the influence of Sir John Kirk and his suc-
cessor, and of Bishops Sterne and Smithies, the Sultan
of Zanzil)ar had become a loyal friend to the English
missions and traders on the coast, where his authority
was acknowledged. From the Kovuma in the south to
Usumbara in the north, it was exercised frankly in their
favour, until every mission station had become a centre
of civilisation, from which peace and order were spread-
ing. Even in the inland, or Nyassa, district, where that
authority Avas scarcely recognised, the progress was little
less satisfactory.

The storm has now, however, burst upon them from
two quarters, with the result that in these early months
of 1889 the men at most of the missions are bravely
holding on at the risk of their lives, and the women
have been warned by the English Consul to withdraw to
Zanzil)ar. The causes of this outbreak are several.
First, the temporary collapse of the Congo Free State in
the far north-west. This has revived the internal slave-
trade. The Arabs, after taking the chief station on the
Upper Congo, have established their supremacy in all
the country west and south of Lake Tanganyika, while
their triumph has been marked by massacres as atrocious
as those witnessed by Livingstone in 1871 on the Lua-
laba.

As was to 1)0 looked for, the wave then swept
eastward, and in the late autumn of 1887 broke
on the countr}^ in which are the north -westernmost

SIEGE OF KARONGA BY ARABS 205

stations of the Free Church of Scotland and the Central
African Company. In the autumn of 1887 the Arab
invasion came down the Stevenson road, and, after
carrying fire and slaughter into the tribes bordering on
the road, on November 3rd appeared in force before the
African Lakes Company's station of Karonga. At that
moment there were only tAvo white men there, one being
a missionary, the other a servant of the African Lakes
Company. On the 4th fortunately the steamer brought
up Mr. Sharp, an elephant hunter, and two others, and
on the 6th Consul Hawes and Mr. Nicoll, the agent of
the African Lakes Company, came in. They were just in
time, for within a few days they were closely besieged,
seven Englishmen with a crowd of native fugitives.
They had sixty-four guns in all, but for sixteen of these,
which were chassepots, only eight rounds of cartridge.
After a fortnight of constant alarms the Arabs tried to
storm on the 23rd and 24th, but were beaten back. On
the 26th a stockade which the Arabs had thrown up
close to the defence works was gallantly fired by two
natives and entirely destroyed. On the 27th the siege
was raised on the approach of a large native force from
the north Avhich had rallied for the succour of the
station. Through 1888 the Company have been able to
hold their own, but it is very doubtful how long they
may be able to do so.

Again, the recent revolution in Uganda has brought
that vast district practically once more under Arab
control. The English Church Missions and the French
Missions ha.ve had to be abandoned, and their stations
and goods, including large supplies and an accumulation
of lettei's waiting for Mr. Stanley, have been destroyed.

2o6 DA VID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvii

But the sorest trial and greatest danger have come
from the coast, and from an unexpected quarter. Under
the treaty, whicli was the result of the hunger of the
nations of Europe for African territory (so remarkably
developed since the opening of the Suez Canal), the pro-
tectorate over this section of the east coast, includin<^'-
the Eovuma and Usumbara districts, has passed to the
Germans. It is useless to inquire how the assent of
England was gained to this arrangement. It has been
given, and the two countries are now in alliance blockad-
ing the coast for the suppression of the slave-trade, and
of the importation of firearms and spirits.

Unhappily the German Government had little sym-
pathy with the national aspiration which resulted in
this treaty and protectorate, so a commercial company
was entrusted with the work of colonisation within the
German sphere of influence. Utterly unused to such
work, without settlements or stations in the country,
with no sympathy for the natives, and eager only for
the gains which it was supposed would pour in from
these rich tropical lands, the German African Company
have made a complete failure. It is needless to dwell
on tlieir high-handed proceedings, which have roused the
whole country, and l)anded the whole native and Arab
population together against the Germans. The Company
have practically acknowledged their failure by appealing
to the German Parliament for help. In the last few
weeks this has been granted, but in an utterly inadequate
and half-hearted way. A sum of £100,000 only has been
voted, with which Captain AVissman is to equip and
organise a force to bring the coast into order and subjec-
tion ! 'Die Government will take no further respousilnlity

THE GERMAN ALLIANCE 207

in tlie matter than the appointment of a commissioner to
report at home on the Company's doings. For the rest.
Prince Bismarck declares that he " never was a man for
Colonies," and has grave apprehensions as to this African
adventure; "Germany being now there must stay, but
will take no step in East Africa which England dis-
appi'oves." She has the experience which Germany
needs, and the two countries are " wedded together " in
their policy now, as they have been for one hundred and
fifty years !

Such assurances will take Englishmen by surprise, as
the great Chancellor's attitude towards this country has
scarcely of late been cordial, still less deferential. They
should nevertheless be frankly welcomed by England.
For, shrink from it as we may, it stands out on the face
of recent history that this burthen is one which in God's
providence we have to bear. We cannot withdraw from
East Africa if we would, and let us hope that if we could
there are few Englishmen who would be cowardly enough
to counsel so unworthy a step ; on the other hand, we
cannot now carry out the Avork single-handed, for already
four European Powers, besides Turkey, are engaged on
the problem. Of these, Portugal is still, as she was in
Livingstone's day, openly conniving at the slave-trade,
and has been asserting a claim to close the Zambesi, on
which she has never had a station higher than Tette,
and the Shire, which she has never explored, and on
which she has no station. The French, sad to say,
are also connivino; at the ocean .slave-trade on the east
coast, and, moreover, will never work with lis while we
remain in Egypt. The Italians have their hands full
far north of Zanzibar, and of the English and German

2o8 DAVID LIVINGSTONE chap, xvn

"spheres of infiuencc" where the problem has to be solved.
The Germans remain. We are in alliance with them
already so far as the blockade is concerned, and their
Emin Pacha is still standing manfully to the work which
our Gordon left to him in the Soudan. They have
already tried their own way and failed. Is it too much
to hope that the strong old Chancellor, the most
thoroughly representative man whom Germany has bred
since Luthci', may be speaking his nation's mind when
he declares that in the future "Germany ^vill take no
step in East Africa which England disapproves'"?

It may be too good news to be true ; but it is worth
accepting as though it were true, and straining every
nerve, and making any sacrifice, short of abandoning
Livingstone's principles and methods with the natives,
to make it so. May the noble band of Englishmen,
clerical and lay, who are following so faithfully the path
which Livingstone, Mackenzie, and Hannington, and
the brave men, their fellow-workers, have trod before
them, recognise this as the present duty which God
who lias called them to this mighty and beneficent task
now requires of them ; and may He who alone can order
the unruly wills of statesmen and nations, keep England
and Germany true to the mission they have undertaken !
Then one of the darkest pages in the world's dark
history will have been turned, and our children, if not
we, may see a redeemed Africa.

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